Thanks for the info guys! I'm not sure the diameter of the exhaust pipe, will have to go measure. I appreciate you posting your pics up also, 2LZ. I was hoping to find a wix number, but i did find a link to the filters on Ebay. I emailed CMPO for some information on some parts as well, so we'll see if they get back with me.

It's good to keep up and learn about new bikes, as they changed the carb type on the XF250 as opposed to the 200. Humanbeing is always a wealth of information. :-)

Haynes Manual Catalog Number
 

dh,
I contacted chinesemotorcyclepartsonline and received a reply this morning.
They told me they did not have or know about such a manual.
Can you check to see if your manual is actually by Haynes, and/or can you give me the catalog or publication item number from your manual.
If I have the Haynes Manual catalog number I can probably order it direct from Haynes.
Thanks,
1CW

Give this a try. If you contact CMPO they won't know what an SSR is. This bike is branded a Pulse Adrenaline XF250 in the UK. It is also sold as a Sinnis Apache XF 250.



https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartson...50GY/XF250GY/0

https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartson...ulse/XF250GY/0

dh,
Thanks for the feed back. I'll check it out and place an order.
Very helpful.
Every place I contacted knew nothing about a SSR XF250 manual, including Haynes. (I didn't have the Haynes number 5750)
:thanks:

Anyone have any input on tires? I have the 17" front and rear, 2.5" front, 3" rear. I was going to do a Kenda 270 4.6 on the front and a 5.10 on the rear. The only ones that make a tire specifically to fit on the front is the Shinko 244's in a 17". I've been told a rear tire can still go on the front and it's not a huge deal. Any other ideas?

Buy from bookstore such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/232180193227 vs hefty int'l shipping bill: http://legacy.chinesemotorcycleparts...l_shipping.php

The Kenda is on the left the Shinko is on the right. If you are looking for some off road traction either will work and both are copies of the IRC tires that Honda used in the late 70's and early 80's on the XL and XR bikes.

Attachment 9695

Attachment 9696

Here is the XF on a ride in N. AZ with 244's last weekend with the wife. I tried the AZ no helmet law thing for about 50 feet while I crossed a dry creek. They do great in rock, gravel, dry dirt imo. They seem to be a good tire all around, although I have not used them much in mud which I have read may not be the 244's strong point.

The 244's are sold as Shinko on Amazon, but the sidewalls say "Golden Boy". They are in ok shape after about 3,000 miles of mainly on road riding. The front tire is starting to show some unusual wear; the knobbies start to wear on one end only, making the tire resemble a saw blade if you look at it from the side. The stock tires did the same thing so maybe this is due to suspension or tire pressure?

I went ahead and ordered the Kenda 270's, 4.6 for the front and 5.10 for the rear. I'll have to see what my local shop will charge to put them on. A buddy said they were going to charge him 160$ to put them on his R6! They should show up tomorrow with a couple other goodies, pair of gloves, and a couple jersey's. I ordered everything from motorcyclesuperstore.com. Good call on the helmet, I feel naked without my gear on. I went with a buddy on his KLR and another on his GROM and we hit some trails (I was on my DRZ). KLR had BALD Kenda 270s, my DRZ and other buddies Grom had street tires, so it was pretty sketchy. lol It was my first time riding on dirt at all so it was doubly weird! Been waiting to get the new tires on the SSR before I get out and start doing breakin on her. Does yours have the safety switch on it that keeps it from being started with the kickstand down? I hate that. Everything else, i've just been trying to research parts-wise so I can get the bike setup how I want. I'm wondering if I need to tweak the suspension for my weight? My fat-ass is around 220 I think.

Looks like fun! The 270 should be a good tire. I paid $80 to have my 244's installed. I plan to do my next tire change on my own.

The kickstand switch can be unplugged so you can start the bike with the kickstand down. The switch is a black plastic one located at the top of the kickstand. The connection is not far from the switch. Unplug it and you can start the bike with the stand up or down.

yea, that was my plan to unplug it/remove it. They didn't think that through very well. My other two bikes i can start with the kickstand down as long as it's in neutral. Having to sit on your bike just to warm it up before riding is silly!

I'm looking forward to more about this bike. I wish we could get more reviews. Anyone know the diffence between this and the CSC TT250? Like which one has better quality and finish etc???

While I do not have an SSR XF250, I do have the Qlink XP 200 and they are made by the same company and share probably 80+% of the same parts. I also have a TT250 and have completely tore it down. Here's my take on both bikes:

The TT250 is the nicest Hondoid that I've seen, to date. It has the nicest fit and finish of any Hondoid I've seen. It comes with extra doo-dads such as LED blinkers, 300 watt stator, etc... That said, it still has many Old World aspects to it, such as the same old weak box metal swing arm Hondoids have used forever. Don't over-torque the axle or you'll smash it. Some of the items are still not "top grade" such as some of the hardware. It still uses heavy steel rims. The seat, while comfortable, has some of the cheesiest upholstery I've seen. Seems durable but it's very thin and stretchy. it's a single piece and is stretched over the entire banana.

Mechanically, some of the fasteners still did not line up and some of the holes needed to be chased with a tap or they would have stripped. There was a lack of "Chinese Butter Bolts" on the TT that I've dealt with on older Hondoids. The CG motor, while proven very reliable and "tried and true", is an old-tech pushrod (like an old Panhead) and is NO powerhouse. Everyone here goes to great lengths to try to ring out whatever extra power that may be hidden inside.....though it does exhibit a nice mid-range bump in the power curve.

The Qlink (SSR/QuinQi) is the real deal. I'd put it up against a Suzuki DR200 any day of the week. The fit and finish is top level, as are the materials that it's built with. The welds appear as they were done by a tradesman as opposed to a drunk 5 year old. The seat upholstery is rugged and durable and is a stitched, three piece unit that's "fit" to the seat. I'm not sure about the SSR but on my Qlink, the top panel of the seat upholstery (that you sit on) is of a thicker, woven mesh that breathes.

The plastics are made of the thick, yet flexible stuff that the Japanese bikes have always used, not that old ridged, thin stuff that cracks and breaks after a short time. The paint quality is excellent and after all the years, I have yet to have a chip or material failure. There is no orange peel. The Q has the best front brake of any CB I've had, though back then the rear was still a heavy drum. The SSR has rear disk. Even back then, the Q came with a braided brake line. The rims are alloy and the spokes are stainless, creating wheels that hold their appearance and more importantly, lessen unsprung weight. Also, the welded aluminum swingarm (that has link suspension) not only reduces unsprung weight, but it a thing of beauty. The weld work is amazing.

The motor in my Q is a Suzuki 200cc overhead cam with a real Mikuni CV carb. The SSR XF 250 has the TU250 Suzuki motor in it. The jury is out if these are "clones" or the real deal.....as the QuinQi factory actually MAKES the Suzuki motors for Suzuki, along with small displacement Kawasaki and KTM motors...and have for a long time. The airbox is of such a nice design with a large, foam, easily accessible filter, it doesn't need to be swapped for a pod filter.

While my Qlink (at 200cc) is no fire breather, it will take the TT250 in a straight line, even with the pipe, Mikuni, pod filter and proper jetting in the TT. Q has been jetted and has a different muffler but is stock otherwise. I have yet to ride the SSR XF250 so I don't know its performance characteristics, but it's in the plan. Q has always had USD forks and a gas shock.

It just depends on what you're looking for and wanting. The SSR (as was Q) is a more expensive CB than the Hondoids at about twice the price per unit....but you don't compare the SSR to the Hondoid and say "Man...that's expensive." You compare it to the DR200 and say "Man....that's half the price of the Suzuki and it's a nicer bike."

Shinko E700... come in 4.60/17 & 5.10/17... 120/80/17 , 130/80/17.
far better tyre than what you are looking at for duel sport use...
I get over 3000km from a rear on the XT660R and it can rip a tyre to sheads
on the road if yer heavy handed on the throttle...

A 5.10 - 130 is a dam big tyre for a 250....

http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/...1/SAM_0161.jpg


.

Awesome review.It definitely sounds like the SSR is way more of a bike than the TT250s

if that is the case... you would think they would be the real deal...
Suzuki etc would take a dim veiw of the copying there motors for
there own gain....



...

How are they off road, just with a smaller wheels? It looks like it handles well.

I'm going to look at new 2016 ones today!! Can't wait. Tell you what I think.

Maybe we will luck out and have a fuel gauge in the 17s

British folk said (bike = 125 cousin)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pC1kaBBCC7A

just set your trip odometer when you fill up and go till you have to turn on reserve and then you now know how many miles more or less that you can go till you need gas.

I hit the trails a bit yesterday with the new tires!! Kenda 270s! 17" front and rear. Took my PSI down to about 20. Bike seemed to do pretty well. It's hard to really say "how good" it is because this is the first bike i've ever ridden off road, i've always been on the street before this. Bike seemed to run good, but my tail light wasn't working except for the brake light and my gauges weren't illuminated either. This bike does have a gas gauge and gear indicator however. I'm going to check my fuses and connections. Also, the bike seems to rev up slowly and come back down slowly. It feels like too much restriction. I think it could definitely take advantage of having the muffler drilled out a bit in the insert and rejetting the carb. Does anyone have any pics of the hole you put the RTV in? I also probably need to find a heavier shock for it, as i'm a heavier rider.

Nice ride, looks good. Yours has a gas gauge? What year is it? Thought they didn't have gas gauges?

I don't know what year they added them, but mine is a '16. Kinda funny, the odometer is in KM though. lol Not a big deal though. Also note the gear indicator.

Since we have different carbs (I've now earned that the SSR TU250 motor does not have the Mikuni as my 200cc motor) I'm not sure.......
Very nice looking bike. I wonder if the gas gauge is close to accurate?

Awesome man!! Thank you for the picture!' Looks like a great ride. I will hold off on the 2014 that I look at tomorrow and get a 16 or newer with a gas gauge!! That gas gauge sold it for me!!🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😀😀😀..

The dealer here wants $2999 plus taxes and registration for a 2014 or $3499 for a 2017 plus taxes and registration!! Anyone have any thoughts? They are already built and ready to go

Regarding the lights, have you made sure all light switches are on, not just the highbeams? The big button is for the high beams only and the smaller one below turns all other lights on. I'm asking because I missed this myself when my xf bike was new. Did you get rid of the kickstand switch?

The tires look great. I had no idea a fuel gauge was added to the new XF! This is not a fast revving bike, but don't worry it gets much better as you break in the motor and make some mods. This motor comes with lots of restrictions on it, probably to make it California emissions friendly. Here is what has worked for me so far...

The slow revving nature of the bike probably has a lot to do with the C/V carb on this bike. Jetting makes a huge difference. Also, there is a thin metal cap covering your idle mixture screw which is set pretty lean; carefully pierce it and pull it out(corkscrew?). The slide hole modification is an easy mod to do and probably one of the biggest... did you say you ordered the Amazon jet kit? If so it comes with the drill bit and instructions. If not, I will look at mine and see what size bit you need and take some photos.

The smog device bolted to your exhaust header causes the bike to run lean/hot and pop during deceleration, remove that and fabricate a plate to cap off the remaining hole.

Consider modifying your air cleaner box if needed, I drilled about a half dozen 3/4" holes in the top of mine.

The muffler is stuffed with a catalytic converter that needs to be removed. The amazon kit also includes a 3/8" bit to drill an extra hole or two into the end of the muffler. A slip on aftermarket type would be nice as well.

Here is a great CV carb tuning guide a mechanic shared with me....

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html

That's expensive, even for an SSR. They list for 3099.99. See link.

http://www.ssrmotorsports.com/store/enduro/xf250.php

You can get them from many vendors for 2799.99.

http://gokartsusa.com/SSR-XF250-5-Sp...Dirt-Bike.aspx


I can see maybe a little mark-up for flooring a bunch of bikes but 400.00 seems a bit much. I'm sure he'll dicker with you.

2LZ: The gas gauge looks to be accurate so far! I was running on one bar going to the gas station and i put almost 2 gallons in her, so i suspect its decently accurate.

DH: There's a light switch? lol I'm going to feel dumb if i get on the bike and see it. I'll check it out when i get home today. Thanks for the great info on the carb! I believe mine has the Tekei carb? I wasn't expecting it to rev like a 2 stroke or anything, but it seems pretty slow. Do you think there's much of an upgrade by replacing the exhaust pipe itself as opposed to just replacing the muffler? I've seen the stainless exhaust, but aside from being more durable, i didnt think there would be much of an upgrade. I think i'd use the mufflers with the 51mm opening?

For the kickstand switch, i took it apart and removed the spring, then i put in a screw the bottom to hold the piece in that contacts the kickstand. Viola! No more problems there.

Also looking at this shock for the bike: http://chinesemotorcyclepartsonline....rtno_RSHCK075#

I had all the same symptoms on Q and you're right, the CV carb needs some help with jetting, the slide mod and mixture screw. I even moved the needle up a notch. It definitely helps. I have not seen your carb but blocking off the little port with RTV under the small side plate on the Mikuni definitely helped throttle response. I also drilled a bunch of big holes in the top of my air box as you did, as well.

The air injection is a quandary.
If you block it off and leave the cat, the cat will start to collect gunk because it's not receiving its occasional incineration from the fresh air.
If you remove the cat and leave the air injection, it will make a premature death of your muffler packing because it will be the recipient of the shot of fresh O2.
My suggestion would be that if you're leaving the cat, leave the air injection. If you're changing the muffler and removing the cat, then block off or remove and plate the air injection.

My air injection is still on the bike but I plugged the big rubber hose to the head with a sawed-off bolt and then blocked the vacuum line with a BB. On the TT250, I gutted it and plated it as you did. I left is on Q at that time because they were squeaking about smogging bikes down at the Capitol. I wasn't sure what was going to happen. Ended up being nothing (for now).

2LZ great point about the connection between the cat and the air injection pump working together. I originally capped the black hose to the air pump/valve but the valve later blew out and the black hose got burnt to a crisp. Good call on the needle clip too. My carb needle doesn't have any notches in it so I added 1 shim.


Derek I also have a Teiekei Mv30 seems to be pretty good quality imo. I have found that individual jets cost up to 3x as much as mikuni jets which is why I experimented with mikuni jets and then got the amazon kit which came with several properly fitting Teikei jets. Glad to hear the gas gauge works!

I don't have any recommendations for the aftermarket pipes unfortunately. I had my stock muffler cut open, cat removed, and welded back together like new. 2LZ didn't you find a aftermarket pipe for your Q that fit nicely?

Yeah seems high but I have seen dealers asking as high as $3600 I bought my 2013 for $2,700 including assembly sales tax and registration. Mind you this was 3 years ago and the dealer was only a few miles from SSR's HQ so shipping wasn't a factor for the dealer. I bet they have some room to negotiate.

Did you make them any offers?

Yes dh. I've tried two different mufflers on Q after banging the cat out of the stock muffler. There was a noticeable difference in power eliminating the stock muffler, even without the cat. Mostly top end. My only question is does your head pipe stick out from the frame at close to the same angle and length as Q does? I can't imagine that it would be much different from Q other than how it plugs in to the head to the TU 250 motor, since I believe it's the same basic frame. The first pic is of the stock muffler.

I first mounted the FMF TC2 on Q (see second pic). I've put it on my other CG (Hondoid) motors and really like it. It is also a very high quality unit.

https://www.amazon.com/FMF-Turbineco...ecore%2B2&th=1

It ended up being too loud and too shrill of a tone on the OHC Suzuki motor and I didn't like it, so I changed it to this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You have to order a 1.25 to 1.5 muffler adapter and do a little "reformatting" on it to splice the new muffler to the FMF TC2 mid-pipe (as you can see in the third pic)

I REALLY like the sound on the OHC motor and appearance of this muffler. It seems of a decent quality and Lord knows....the price is right. It will also pass the Rangers coat hanger test. I did drill more small holes in the baffle to free it up a bit.

If your head pipe may appear to stick out remotely close to the one on Q, either of these mufflers can be fitted to the SSR XF250 successfully. If you don't start with the FMF TC2 as I did, you will need to have a mid-pipe made at a muffler shop to splice the second muffler on to your SSR XF250.

No but if there asking $2999 plus taxes and registration I wonder if I could get them to $2500 cash out the door. What you think is a fair price? Your have a gas gauge? I thought someone else said the did.

You can ask but have to be realistic. Not going to drop the price like your buying a 32,000 pickup. They will go about 100 but I don't think 500. You can try!...just saying.

What's the Ω reading
There's 2 typical chinese fuel sensor
100Ω (2-wire) http://chinariders.net/showthread.ph...858#post248858 / 500Ω (3-wire| Yamaha/GY6...)
---
I guess it's the 2-wire 100Ω type...

So i ordered the Acerbis bark busters and the Sigma jet kit off Amazon. I'll be looking for it next week sometime. I'll probably do what i can to drill out the muffler to see if that improves things also, and measure the exhaust pipe to see what size i can fit on there. How's everyone's week going so far?