Did mine's first oil change, at 350 mi. Then I wired some some aux fog lights :D

Checked and greased swing arm axle bearings. Axle was dry, bearings had a little bit of grease. No rust and no needles flying everywhere. Packed with waterproof grease and good to go. Two hours top.

Jarno, surf, thanks for great pics. Great to see inner workinga. Surf, did used oil look good?

Lots of dead ends today
 

Today was the day to mount my GPS....Oh I have a few different models, some long gone. The mounts I just got were for a model I no longer have...my bad. Next, when I tried to install a pair of horns I found that the factory had installed the horn in a place where nothing else would fit. There's no chance my pair of aftermarket horns will go there. Now for plan B. Finally, I dredged up a bit of scrap aluminum and made a side stand foot (had to salvage the day somehow). https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0109-M.jpg
That's 1/2" aluminum for the foot and thinner stock to lock it into place.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0111-M.jpg
installed it's still a bit clunky but certainly gives more purchase than the stock foot.
The next project is to install a fuze block so I can wire up heated gear and other stuff. I just found that the two Aux leads that are wired into the wiring harness are individually switched...in other words, you can use #1 or #2 but not both. CSC wires the aux LED lights to #2 so #1 is pretty useless unless you have some special farkle to use without running the aux lights.

Oil was visually clean, felt bad doing an oil change haha. The magnetic drain plug picked up a good bit of tiny filings.

Surf, Yes but reassuring and cheap

Pyoung...impressive foot:clap:

In the best KLR tradition
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...VvTjJGd-XL.jpg
The disc I had on hand. Countersunk hole with flathead bolt.

I set my new slip on and pipe it very quick response but smooth and still loud like standard muffler.
http://www.mx7.com/i/1f0/vyYYpn.jpg

Now, here's a HORN
 

I'm getting ready for a fairly short trip out to Appomattox, Virginia for a Horizons Unlimited meet. At this point in time I am at the Good Idea Cutoff Point (Army phrase, but it fits). Today the plan was to install better horn/s. At the same time I wanted to modify the bash plate so I gave more clearance around the exhaust. Truth be told, the accessory bash plate that CSC sells is a fine bit of metal work. Seriously, that's a nice job of cutting, bending, and welding. It's just a bit snug around my exhaust. Here's my plan:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0112-M.jpg
I can trim off the part indicated and not change the protection significantly. A band saw works perfectly.
Next, I need to drill holes to mount new horns. When I tried to put the horns in the general location of the OEM horn I realized that there just was no room for these suckers. If you want LOUD you gotta have room. Thus, mounting on the bash plate, which will still be inboard of the crash bars. The horns are made to mount on really thin stock so I had to counterbore the holes. Nice to have a mill.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0114-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0115-M.jpg
Then it's time to install the new horns. One consideration is that the OEM horns are run on really small wires (seems to be typical in motorcycle land) so those wires and the associated switches won't handle the current needed for a decent horn. You need a relay. I used the OEM horn lead to trigger my relay. Then a 14 gauge lead provides the current and ground for each horn. Now the bike no longer sounds like a baby goat on its last legs, I will get attention! Yes, it's not the most attractive setup but it sure works.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0119-M.jpghttps://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0118-M.jpg
the horns are still inboard of the crash bars. I have this set up so I can disconnect at one point and remove the bash plate for oil changes.

Just a note, in order to power this (and other stuff to come later) I installed a fuze block.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0116-M.jpg
right now the horn is not switched. I still need to determine the best way to get a switched power lead (normally I use the tail light). At some later date I will add wiring for heated gear. FWIW, I'm pulling my + from the starter solenoid connection. That saves me from having a rats nest of connection on the battery.

Here's the OEM horn...what a wimp!
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0117-M.jpg
no wonder why they kick sand in his face!

Nice job! I thought about doing the same, but then I got used to the roadrunner meep meep I guess...

Even though I had just adjusted the valve lash, my RX3 started to stall while coasting to a stop. :hmm: Then I realized I had ridden almost 14,000 miles on the original spark plug. ;)

I installed an NGK CR7E spark plug to replace the Denso spark plug. The gap of the NGK CR7E spark plug is .031 inches.

http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9660

In order to replace the spark plug, I performed the following steps.

Remove both saddles
Remove right (black) plastic cover which flows into the fuel tank shroud
Remove the bolt holding the ignition coil, and move the ignition coil out of the way
Blow out spark plug hole with compressed air
Remove original Denso spark plug
Install NGK CR7E spark plug
Replace the ignition coil in its original location
Replace right (black) plastic cover which flows into the fuel tank shroud
Install both saddles

My RX3 runs great with the NGK CR7E spark plug, and it no longer stalls while coasting to a stop. :tup:

How thick is the aluminum stock?

Today's project was eliminating some vibration at 7000-9000 RPM via a chain adjustment (3rd one) at 1800 miles. I used a Chain Monkey tool and Motion Pro alignment tool which made the job a breeze while giving the chain a quick clean with WD-40 as a cleaner and Chain Wax to lubricate.

http://www.gizmag.com/chain-monkey-review/42441/

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-.../dp/B000GTVOJQ

The stock chain seems like it's not going to last long with the amount of slack that happened in the last 800 miles. The 13T sprocket only has about 1300 miles on it but also show's much more wear than I expected. I'll probably keep some spare sprockets in the garage.

Of note was the fact the the alignment marks on the swing-arm were very different on each side when using the sprocket/chain alignment tool from motion pro, which worked excellent.

I also found the right rear footpeg attempting to make an escape do to the pin having worked its way out. The little clip that holds the pin was missing.

After everything was adjusted no more vibration until over 8000 when some buzz occurs though redline.

Time to look at a higher quality chain!

Nice work. Do you know the Db rating of the horns and have a link?

How about a link for the fuze block as well. Thanks.

Spud, how did the electrodes look on the old plug?

The electrodes looked good, Jay. They wore down evenly, and were the correct color. :)

You are wise to purchase a quality drive chain. :)

As the drive chain rotates around the sprockets, the link pins wear inside the bushings. As the pins decrease in diameter, the chain elongates. Since the links of the elongated chain are farther apart, the chain links wear down the sprockets. :ohno: Therefore, a cheap drive chain will quickly wear out both sprockets. ;) Hence, it's always a good idea to purchase a quality drive chain, since both sprockets should also be replaced when the drive chain is replaced.

I like the RK 520EXW drive chains. :tup:

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...-Chain?v=12754

https://images.rockymountainatvmc.co..._x-rin_cha.jpg

The Honda XR650L has a drive chain the same length as the Zongshen RX3, 110-links. ;)

Horns and fuze block sourced from Aerostich

Get both high and low tone horns, they sound much better, 132 Db
http://www.aerostich.com/fiamm-freew...ster-horn.html

The Fuze Block has its own relay so you can have both switched and un-switched gadgets.
http://www.aerostich.com/fuzeblock-fz-1.html

Thanks for the photos of the horn and bash plate setup.

I like the idea of getting the hot lead from the starter solenoid.

jb

Nice exhaust! I like slip-ons. What brand and model muffler is that and is it USFS Approved?

Very nicely done! Will you be posting a video soon with the new slip-on muffler? Will you be offering the muffler for sale?

X2; hooking the hot lead to the starter solenoid is a great idea. :tup:

" Blow out spark plug hole with compressed air"

Spud, just wanted to say that this tip of yours is an absolute "must" and to add , make a really good visual inspection afterwards to make sure its all clear.

A while back when doing my plug, I had a couple bits of gravel jamed low down between the plug and the plug recess. you can guess where they were going to go if i hadn't spotted them prior to removing the plug.

:)

Indeed, the spark plug hole is poorly designed, and it collects a lot of small rocks/debris. :ohno: I recommend using a flashlight and an inspection mirror, to make sure every bit of rock/debris is blown out of the hole. ;)

http://www.harborfreight.com/telesco...rror-7361.html

It's 1/4", but it is just what I had on hand; I only needed to drill and countersink it.

3/16" is thick enough. 1/8' would work unless you mount the bike by stepping on the footpeg.

Peter,
This thread is about my fuse installation and explains where I got my switched power.
http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15662

Dan, thanks for that link to your write-up. It seems we are of a like mind with this 'letric stuff. After reading your account I'm still not sure where you got the switched power for your relay. Normally I'd go for something like the tail light. I just have not dug that deeply into the wiring harness yet. BTW, under that plastic tray and near the back of the cavity there is a blanked off electrical connector. This sucker looks like it has 8 or 10 leads going into one side, nothing on the other side. Any idea what this is for? It might be just what I need for switched power.

Peter Y.

Referring to the photo in my write-up:
The green oval is a fuse holder. The small black wire coming to the bottom is a switched +12V. I used this for the relay signal. I used a small Posi-Tap PTA2022

I'd like to try the Posi-tap connectors sometime. :) Where does one get the best price for this product, including delivery costs?

They are hard to find. AeroStich has a limited selection.
However, you can buy direct, and now the smaller packages are "free freight items".
http://www.posi-products.com/shoponline.cfm

Thank you. :) The 'free freight items' are a great option for me to try the Posi-tap connectors. :tup:

also try Ebay for the Posi-taps, I use them and like them a lot. rj

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...+-tap&_sacat=0

Thanks for posting the good tip, Rob. :)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...ctors&_sacat=0

My big Maintenance for my RX3 about 5 HR. to do

http://www.mx7.com/i/e3f/GAioNr.jpg

1. oil leak at the engine head
2. Set up new warning fuel sensor
3. Clear air filter
4. Clear and lube oil chain
5. Oil change

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3081458&type=3

I've done a lot of work since Sunday:

• 500 mile valve check ... still in spec.
• Found a small radiator hose leak and tightened all clamps.
• Fuel level fix by bending the tank float.
• Installed my new GENNSI LED headlight.

Thanks for posting the great photos, Yoo. :) Why did you remove the fuel pump?

For clear Gasoline filter in tank,Sir.

http://www.mx7.com/i/169/gAQzaF.jpg

Thank you, Sir. ;) Did you replace the filter with a new filter, or did you clean the old filter? If you cleaned the old gasoline filter, what method did you employ to clean it?

I had my fuel pump out yesterday - I was thinking that the fuel level gauge was on that assembly (it is on my Guzzi and F800GS). I wanted to bend the arm.
I noticed that the filter is bent at a right angle against the bottom of the tank as shown in the photo. I think this fold makes 3/4 of the filter inoperable. I tried to rotate the filter to a more functional position but it would not move with moderate force, and I didn't want to break it.