Sure, there isn't any circuitry inside. Just double check your pinouts in regards to the RX3's DLC and the Tactrix. Use the RX3 Wiring diagram here for the DLC pinout:

http://www.rx3adventure.com/images/r..._schematic.jpg

Okay, I was able to get everything working and I recorded a few minutes of it running. Here is the logfile:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1szR...ew?usp=sharing

What I'm noticing is that the TPS is fluctuating between 0.5% and 1.4%. Later in the file I try opening the throttle (up to 5.5%) just to see if the tps will snap back to under 1%, but it doesn't.

My working theory is a bad TPS. TPS reads high, causes ECU to supply fuel even though throttle body is closed. O2 sensor goes super rich because of all this fuel.

But that's a guess. Can you guys tell anything different from the data log I shared above? Thanks!

Charles.

Here's a graph.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yHz...ew?usp=sharing

I blipped the throttle once at the 4 minute mark. Otherwise I didn't touch the grip. Plenty of cable slack FWIW.

Charles.

I was busy changing the muffler on the rx3 today I couldn't download the file you should get an email asking you to share the file.

I just got home, saw your message, and replied to your email. I thought I had it set to be shared with everyone, I'll doublecheck.

Charles.

It is 4 am, so I have no way to check when I will probably get up at noon, I will record a diary on my motorcycle and compare them.

On a quick comparison with the log file available in the ben elli TRK 251 program you can see the strange behavior here.

It's 4am and I can't think too much anymore, but it looks like a crazy TPS sensor, but tomorrow er actually today I'll still compare it to my rx3.If the map sensor or tps is defective after some time from the bad mixture it will give a lambda error like the one you got.

I made a log of my bike and compared you can see the problem with the throttle position you can clean it and check the plug contacts you can also replace the TPS I assume it is the problem you can look for such a TPS if the original one is expensive.


https://mega.nz/file/rMlnWaxL#ACQk_N...Hv4dhfG2crCcaU

Yeah, comparing those two data logs, I'm going to say there is something up with your TPS. Clean it if you can, replace it if you can't.

I replaced the TPS, and it seemed to get better. I was riding the bike conservatively and the ECU corrected for the new TPS. Idle was rock solid stable, no codes, and the bike no longer hesitated or stuttered.

so then I took it on the highway and let it get good and hot, and the problem came right back.

I replaced the MAP sensor, because it was easy to get to. No effect. So that leaves the IAC valve. That's the last thing I haven't replaced.

Of course, now I'm feeling highly frustrated and severely pessimistic, and I'm doubting that the IAC valve will fix the problem. Which means ordering a new throttle body assembly and throwing even more money down the tubes.

I'm not pleased at all.

It's extra frustrating because I keep missing going on trips on the RX3. I *LOVE* riding the RX3. I love the size and the off-road capability and the light weight. But this will be the THIRD trip this year that I've missed due to the bike breaking right before the planned trip. This will be the third time I ride my absolutely trouble-free Benelli Leoncino instead.

Charles.

Very strange things, I wonder how the temperature sensor works in this motorcycle, I used to have this in my car and the problem was the temp sensor but in the program you can see that the temp is ok and other things raise questions, interesting that for some time it was ok I assume until it warmed up well

Yep, Hondas in particular, are notorious for having wonky idles when the engine cooling system or coolant temperature sensor isn't working right. Usually it is due to air getting trapped in the system and not being bled out. Remember, this engine has been apart twice for repairs - there could be trapped air or the coolant level could just be low. Hence the problem reappearing when it gets hot.

It could also be a bad electrical connection somewhere; it's OK when the wiring harness and connectors are cold, but it breaks contact once things start to heat up. Man, an oscilloscope would sure come in handy here. Probably wouldn't take more than thirty minutes or so to find out what and where the issue is.

Oh, I wonder what gearing it takes to get a RX3 up to 318 MPH?

apparently in the 13th gear downhill and with good winds you can achieve this speed

Charlie, if you can clear the errors and record the log file again and see if there are still errors replacing every part without finding the cause is not the best solution maybe it will work maybe not look that the throttle position at your place changes even though you do not add gas it is very strange because you control it and it IAC not the other way around it could be some kind of error in signal transmission check the plugs well spray gold contact or similar.

So I've replaced:

TPS (CSC part)
IAC Valve (CSC part)
O2 Sensor (delphi cross-reference)
MAP sensor (delphi cross-reference)

I've also disabled and removed the charcoal canister and blocked off the vacuum port on the head. (I left the valve attached so as not to throw a code).

The bike will idle normally for a while, and then start gaining revs as it heats up. dongle shows TPS percentage is slowly increasing, but the throttle is not moving.

Bike runs like absolute shit and will eventually throw o2 sensor code.

If bike is running and I unplug the TPS sensor, the idle immediately settles down. However, the percentage shown on the computer starts fluctuating wildly.


So... this seems unfixable to me. I've already replaced all the parts that could possibly control idle, and nothing is working. Has anyone done a carb conversion? I'm sick of this bullshit.

Charles.

plis do log file

Hi ChopperCharles, a thought here from old J4Fun (and I know it may weaken the team) but when you let off the twist grip can you feel it snap back? If so then I'm thinking your sucking air in where you don't want to. You know where it would be after the throttle body look closely there. It just seems like something easy like loose bolts bad gasket, loose hose clamp or bad hose? I'm just looking at my Hawk DXL and thinking of what your problem might be! Good Luck

Nothing is unfixable. Do as Lukas requests and post a current log file. Also, it might help to throw up a quick video of the high idle condition. Also, what is the exact O2 code? Is it just the the O2 heater circuit, if it has one, or is it not switching like it is supposed to? Just because its new, doesn't mena that it is good. If you're getting one, then something is not to the ECU's liking, when that happens many ECU's go into a default limp in mode - such as raising the idle, turning on the cooling fans, engaging a RPM limiter, etc, until the condition is fixed. That could be what is happening here.

When you swapped out the IAC, did you clean the passage in the throttle body? It almost sounds like something is opening up dimensionally as the bike gets hot, which is letting in more air in and causing the ECU to add fuel. The fuel trims in your log file will show this, if that is indeed what is happening. Oh, and I don't believe that the coolant temperature sensor has been changed, unless you forgot to mention it. I know what I said about the parts cannon, but at this point it's all that is left, apart from the ECU itself or an issue with the wiring harness.

I realize that this is frustrating, it always is when you are tracking down something, but stick with it, you'll get there.

Here are the log files. https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...qh?usp=sharing

I started with a 20 minute idle, as it was a cooler day this wasn't enough to cause the issue. I put the laptop in the saddlebag but the USB plug detached almost immediately, so the ride data was lost. There are a few throttle blips in the data that were from me, not from the bike.

When I got back I saw the disconnected cable so I reconnected and saved the log of the high idle for about five minutes. Again, a couple of throttle blips.

During the ride the bike threw a code for O2 sensor voltage too high, and it was running poorly. Surging and hesitating like it was running very lean.

Charles.

Also, I'm 100% sure I don't have an air leak. My throttle also snaps back and is adjusted properly. Joey is sending me a spare ECU to test. The readings and troubleshooting suggest the TPS is at fault, even though I've gone through two of them. But it could be the ECU reading the TPS incorrectly. So I'm going to try that tactic next.


Charles.

ok let's see you log file

See three posts above, where I shared the directory with my log files.

I compared with other log file available in hod ecu hacker and mine, but on mine I didn't have the motorcycle warmed up like that, but on the map from ben elli there is that temperature, which is 86 degrees Celsius you can see the problem here.

Here with ben elli TRK at 86c and your 86c I am not sure if it is not the engine temp sensor that is the issue, it has a puncture I need to think about it a bit and look for info.

are you change this sensor?

i know you write this but i want be sure

Actually, looking at your log files and comparing the two, I would suspect that you have a duff O2 sensor that is not switching fast enough; the output from yours looks a little "lazy". In your fast idle log file, the Long Term Fuel Trim is -20% at .8 after the bike warms up and enters closed loop operation, indicating that the fast idle is due to lean operation as you suspect. This is being commanded by the ECU because it thinks that you are running too rich based off of the O2 sensor input. I can't recall if you bought your O2 sensor from CSC or used a reputed cross reference part number, but if it is a cross reference O2 sensor, then you may want to try genuine replacement from CSC. I know that the cross referenced part numbers are supposed to work, but I don't recall anyone actually installing one and verifying that they do, so that may be part of the problem.

Try Another O2 Sensor
 

Actually, looking at your log files and comparing the two, I would suspect that you have a duff O2 sensor that is not switching fast enough; the output from yours looks a little "lazy". In your fast idle log file, the Long Term Fuel Trim is -20% at .8 after the bike warms up and enters closed loop operation, indicating that the fast idle is due to lean operation as you suspect. This is being commanded by the ECU because it thinks that you are running too rich based off of the O2 sensor input. I can't recall if you bought your O2 sensor from CSC or used a reputed cross reference part number, but if it is a cross reference O2 sensor, then you may want to try genuine replacement from CSC. I know that the cross referenced part numbers are supposed to work, but I don't recall anyone actually installing one and verifying that they do, so that may be part of the problem.

his probe works the same as mine and my bike rides normally, you can see on the log that the voltage jump are identical

From what I've been able to find out is that the column I've highlighted shows the number of correct passes charlie wrote that he drives a bit so that's a good indication I think if I drive mine a bit and plug it in without putting it out then that meter will also be full, so that's a bad clue I didn't know that this sensor was measuring temperature at the same time but I think charlie replaced it and unfortunately I don't see anything strange but it got me curious.

I wonder if it adapts itself?

No, if you look closely at the two logs, under the high idle log there are significant chunks of time where the O2 sensor is "stuck", outputting high voltage to the ECU, while under the normal idle log graph the plot almost looks solid, since the O2 is rapidly switching back and forth like it is supposed to. I think he has a thermal issue with his O2 sensor, it loses the ability to react fast enough once it gets hot - hence the high voltage O2 sensor trouble code that he is getting; a high voltage would tell the ECU that the engine is running rich, which then causes it to lean out the air/fuel mixture. One other possibility is a bad electrical connection somewhere in the O2 sensor circuit, possibly a bad terminal in the connector, or one that has backed out and is not making full contact due to thermal expansion after it gets hot. I would definitely inspect the connector and its terminals for problems first, then swap the O2 sensor if they check out.

A good test would be to back probe the O2 sensor connector from the O2 sensor side and measure the resistance of the wiring from there to the ECU connector, both cold and hot, to see if there are any resistance differences when the wiring connector temperature changes.

Note: I could be seeing a compression effect in the O2 sensor voltages, since the two log files are of different durations, with one being 5 minutes and the other 27 minutes. It would help to see two equal length logs, to be sure that I'm seeing a "real" difference and not a logging artifact.

This description shows that it was ok then until it warmed up and now it was also ok until it warmed up I also looked at this log file from 20 min and the throttle position and it is 0.2% and on this 5 min log file it is 1.5% too bad the cable came unplugged because it would be known if this position changes as the temperature increases and now the question is if it is the short circuit and temperature that causes it to increase or if there is a leak somewhere and as the metal expands more left air gets in.

I would suspect that it calibrates at each key on event, similar to what many cars do. This would help the ECU to adapt as the TPS wears over time, until such time as it simply can't make heads or tails of what the signal from the TPS is saying, which is when it would throw a TPS trouble code.

The thing is, Charles only has an O2 sensor trouble code - nothing about the TPS, plus his TPS voltage graphs look good (virtually identical) at normal and high idle. I think that his TPS is OK, the issue is in the O2 circuit; either the wiring, connector, or the sensor itself.

Yes, two equal length logs would definitely help - say 15 minutes each. That way we can compare apples to apples, so to speak.

I checked on this log file that charlie posted a dozen days ago and on it you can see that the throttle position increases as the motorcycle warms up.

the position is wrong, it should be zero and it increases with the temperature change

Charlie unscrew the TPS from the throttle, but don't unplug the plug and see how much it shows in the program, if 0 it's a throttle problem, if above zero now it's 1.5%, it's probably a short circuit or electrical harness , or ECU do that and we'll find out.