After I quit messing about ;), I will go to 2,000 mile oil change intervals.

I believe Spud has posted that he does 2,000 mile oil changes....and valve clearance checks.....

....which reminds me, I'm due to check the valves again......:cry:

jb

As far as I am aware how you vent your crankcase will make no difference to the amount of fuel or water contaminant remaining present in your oil.

It is all to do with speed of evaporation. The hotter your oil the quicker the contaminants evaporate. The ideal situation being to boil it off almost as quickly as It has been deposited in your oil via the blow by gases.

Last winter my oil level was actually rising due to the oil temp being too cold to evaporate the contaminants off fast enough. The fact that I was doing mainly short commuter trips didn't help (1/2 hr each way). In spring and summer, the problem lessened and eventually stopped

Now I have a higher temp thermostat which in turn raises the oil temp the problem, so far, has not returned (5degs C this morning).

I agree that venting directly to the air box is a bad idea and venting to atmosphere is best. but for me, I'm happy with using the OCS compromise.

:)

I agree. I'd like to go to the higher temp tstat, as my rides are at least an hour or more in duration, in excessive heat, and my oil level still rises. So for the cooler months, it'll get worse. Problem I see is that the hotter tstat is not plug and play, I remember reading that some modification to the tstat housing is in order, correct?

The 90C thermostat from wattman is larger than OEM. It's pretty easy to enlarge the thermostat housing so that larger thermostat will fit.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0531-M.jpg
the OEM housing has a ledge
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0534-M.jpg

remove some of the ledge any you can now install the wattman 'stat
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0535-M.jpg

Pyoungbl has done a great professional job with removing some of the ledge from his thermostat housing :tup:


But is possible to get the job done with some basic tools, I used an electric hand drill and a small grinder attachment. :)


If I remember correctly, your original thermostat will still fit and work after you have made the modification should you wish to change back.


A simple thing that you could try that's easy whilst you decide is to make some radiator covers.
:tup:
See here http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....&postcount=208

I'm using these as extra to my 85c thermostat with no problems :tup:

I have a dremel...and a tiny bit of sense...i may go for it!

I'm doing the same. I ordered the thermostat, but just haven't had the time to actually do the job. I will be using a Dremel as well. What's the worst that can happen? (Famous last words...) :p

What's the worst that can happen? (Famous last words...) :p[/QUOTE]

WELL....as a long time ER and acute care RN, I can say this...here in Mississippi, many ER visits began with the phrase, "Hey ya'll, watch this!"

Hummm, I seem to recall some exciting events that started with the words "Hold my beer and watch this!"

Peter Y.

Ahhh yes, the final "weight removal" step to every KLR 650 (fire always makes things lighter)

Passing gas.
 

Katflap is quite right here: http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....7&postcount=42

I'd like to expand on that by pointing out that burning off the fumes from the crankcase is best for the environment since the spent gasses are processed by the cat-converter. That doesn't include the vapors/liquids that can also be included in the mixture emitted from the breather.

I don't know if the OCS would be more effective if placed further downstream towards the air filter, or if pyoungbl's catch can (after the OCS) stuffed with metal mesh would trap nearly all the liquid and allow only the fumes (gasses) to enter the filter housing and thus cleanly burn away.

Proper operating temp is key to getting the water boiled out and turning gasoline/petrol back in to usable energy. Eagerly watching to see what grows out of the collective experiments.

Jay, just to add to the confusion.....

I have had 5 oil analyses with the stock 70C thermostat in place.

Even when there was a high percentage of fuel in the crankcase oil,

the % of water in the oil was zero.

jb

LOL - yeah, I hope that things don't go quite so pear-shaped when I work on things.

The trouble with me is that I tend to go overboard (probably my OCD kicking in), like using the Dremel to modify the thermostat housing, but only to discover a "pocket" in the casting, so I had to Dremel further to remove the pocket. And I polished the interior of the thermostat while I was there. Yeah... OCD.

Too late to ride, so it'll have to wait to the weekend, but looking forward to seeing the results from installing the 90* Celsius thermostat.

[IMG]http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...8/IMG_5120.jpg[/IMG]

I've put about 100 miles on the RX3 with the 90C.

The only difference I could tell was the engine temperature gauge went to 3 bars and stayed there.

jb

Got that right Azhule, heres a pic of my brothers Yamaha 360mx. I swear it was running fine last time I parked it though it may of been a touch lean on the mixture :lmao: rj

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...psbpnmxaih.jpg

Have you sniffed your oil since? Even just a whiff from the fill port should do.

jb, I think you and I are seeing the same thing on the instrument panel but describing it differently. My bike displays 4 bars...counting the one that is always on. As you know I'm using the 90C thermostat too. A couple days ago it was about 40F outside and it did not take long to get the left radiator up to 195F and the oil up to about 180F. That's exactly what I was hoping for. What temps are you seeing at, say, left radiator input, right radiator output, and the sightglass? So far I'm very happy with my higher temp thermostat.

Peter Y.

Haven't done a sniff test, yet.

jb

P, my infrared thermometer is in NC, so I don't have a way to measure.

I'm relying on the next oil analysis to tell me if the higher temp thermostat helps or not.

jb

Jay,

I did the sniff test today.

No detectable gasoline smell, but I would hope not after only 100 miles.

Which brings up another irritation....

Went for a ride yesterday after doing a valve clearance check.

While riding my foot slipped off the gear shift lever.

When I looked down, my boot and the lower frame of the bike were covered with motor oil.

Apparently I had neglected to tighten the threaded plug that covers the lower timing inspection port, and it had fallen by the wayside.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pslivs28fb.jpg

I unscrewed one of the plugs from the upper timing inspection ports and put it in the place of the missing one.

Then stuffed a piece of cleaning rag in the open upper port.

Since the engine oil light did not come on, I thought it safe enough to ride the bike home.

It took 5 ounces to bring the oil level back to the center of the oil sight glass. Don't think any damage was done to the engine.

Now the bike is parked until I receive the replacement threaded plugs.

I ordered two, since I had stripped the left one during the valve check. >:

jb

Yay!

Adventure?

Sux 2 B U. <joking> I would think some other make of bike would use a 14x1 mm plug. Might be able to get one local? Of course probably many times the price from CSC. Don't forget o-rings, too.

Did a Google search and did not find any equivalent plugs.

Sent in an order to CSC requesting Priority Mail delivery.

However, I think I need a break from the RX3....beginning to feel like I am a beta tester...

Did a couple hundred miles on my Scout today. No drama...5,000 mile oil changes, and after the initial check, no valve check until 20,000 miles.

jb

Being a Polaris/Victory guy, if I ever get another cruiser, the Scout will be it. I don't want another massive monster, but I'd like something larger than a Sporty. The Scout has to be a quality piece.

2LZ, the Scout is an excellent, low maintenance, motorcycle.

The engine is it's best feature....100 hp, and I like the cast frame.

However, as I am becoming ancient....the cruiser riding position doesn't agree with me....one of the reasons I took a chance on the RX3 is the upright riding position.

The Scout needs mid-mount controls for me, and after being in the market for 2 years, no one makes an aftermarket conversion.

jb

Today I installed the missing threaded plug in the engine, and replaced a few bolts with stripped heads.

Then spent the afternoon wandering around central FL orange groves and a few swampy areas:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psr5jnha2d.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psmubbf44j.jpg

Certainly not as much fun as riding the NC mountains....but the November weather in FL has been ideal.

I kept an eye on the engine temperature gauge (90C thermostat) the whole day. It continued to stay on 3 bars (plus the one that has the "C") the whole time.... regardless of whether the bike was moving or sitting at idle.

jb

Bike always looks nice clean and cared for. Bright rear red reflectors really blaze at night. Plz link that tank pack and there is a gps mount? Device? Too? Looks like a nice setup if I ever end up with an rx4. Thanks for keeping us always supplied with new pictures !

Tank bag mount and info:

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....4&postcount=46

Inexpensive Garmin Nuvi GPS is mounted on a handlebar Techmount with industrial strength velcro.....will look for pics...

Handlebar risers are necessary on the RX3 in order to use the Techmount.

http://www.techmounts.com/products/i...product_id=149

jb

I have installed on/off valve at the bottom of the separator drain tube
(And because I get tired of opening it up every 100 miles or so because it's full)
I just barely open so it slightly runs out then I quit worrying about it filling up.

Thanks for the neat tank mount info. I actually missed that post, thought I'd seen them all.

I'm liking this one for future rx4 (will meet you in the the Appalachians someday).
http://www.advpulse.com/wp-content/u...-5-561x325.jpg
http://www.advpulse.com/adv-products...e-phone-mount/
So much is do-able with the android I phones these days (possible future engine diagnostics to view in real time , definitely eyes on the road rider!)

This thread is drifting from the topic:hi:

Inroads,

My drain tube leaks so I never have to empty it.

But I would like to know how much fluid is being separated from the crankcase gases.

jb

My OEM drain dripped enough that it never had anything in it. It made a MESS on the frame, and the rear tire - that's a safety hazard. I put a fuel valve at the end and a bit more tubing to make it easier to catch the fluid when I drain it. It keeps the bike cleaner.

With my shut off valve closed I was going about 60 hi way miles or less

Till the tube was filled.My OCS is in the "official" position(which creates more

Liquid than the flip side)

The vent is valved on the inside so it's not going to be pulling anything in. I just dumped the tube out under the bike like every other bike I've owned (minus the modern Vics).

It's either let it accumulate and dump it in the flower bed or on the side of the road or let it slowly mist out when it's hot while you ride. I know this isn't the popular fix here but.....problem solved.

^^^That would concern me because it is dumping right at the rear tire.

Also your pic looks like the shifter is walking out on the spline just a tad.

I had a problem with the shifter loosening up and I installed a longer thru bolt and installed

A nut on the other end so I could really get a bite on the spline.

Maybe it's not a problem just looks like it might be loose.

I've never had a bike that didn't dump right there....well, my old Harley dumped on the chain. That was actually a nice use for the vapor! ;-)

^^^ what if you shortened the hose and dumped in the skidplate area. ?

That might give it a chance to collect and evaporate some and stay away from

The vicinity of the rear tire.

The amount of oil being expelled is actually very small and air flow alone will swirl it away from the rear tire. You will see a light sheen on the panniers and fender. Oil being flung off the chain will create a greater mess.

You can check the amount of blowby. Disconnect the hose at the airbox. Crank up the engine and feel for blowby. Rev the engine and check again. Mine was hardly noticable at 5K rpm. I'm sure there is more at 8-9K but nothing like a steady stream of gas with a heavy load of oil drops.

Peter Y.

I'm not sure which is the official position, but the OCS should have the cap at the top (facing up).

If it is not, the gases going into the airbox are unfiltered.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psru7snnxu.jpg

jb