That's why I prefer the Time-sert. When done properly, the bottom of the threaded insert expands in the hole, and is less likely to come out.

There is much difference of opinion as to which thread repair method is better. :)

I've already ordered and received a new valve cover and o-ring/gasket. Great service from CSC!

jb

I have used time certs. They are excellent in areas with thin walls and where aluminum may crack. Helicoils will back out. Time certs have never backed out on me.

Curiosity as to whether or not the engine will start got the best of me.

Not the best location to attempt this type of repair, but all I have at hand.

After disconnecting a few electrical connections, and using the drill bit extension, I was able to drill out the hole with the stripped threads for the intake valve cover.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psupntngic.jpg



A standard tap handle didn't have room to turn, so I used the short-handled adjustable wrench to turn the tap, a 1/2 turn at a time.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psrizr1pj8.jpg




After cleaning out the newly tapped hole with compressed air, I used the install tool to seat the Time-sert in the hole:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pszvkg70ao.jpg


New valve cover, o-ring, and bolts.

Bolts were lightly coated with anti-seize, 6mm lockwashers added, then fastened down.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psbhhjbv1r.jpg


On the exhaust side, there wasn't enough room to follow the same procedure, so I used a longer bolt to catch the few threads that were still left at the bottom of the stripped hole.

The bolt "bottomed out" so I added washers and a lock washer to shim the bolt head. That seemed to work.

Now to see what happens when I push the starter button......:hmm:

For the first second or two I was really worried...sounded like someone banging metal pans together, and then....


http://vid42.photobucket.com/albums/...psfk13m1t8.mp4


The valves sounded a bit loud, but no obvious knocking sounds.

Took a ride around the neighborhood. The engine power seemed the same as usual, and there wasn't any oil leaking on my pant leg. :tup:

It was another great sunny and warm riding day, so I decided to live dangerously, and ride the same 100 mile loop as before.

What's the worst that could happen?

I even took a small detour and rode a few miles of dirt (sand):

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psgwjh7epv.jpg

Made it home a few hours later with no drama, and no oil leaks.

There is still the matter of the temporary fix for the bolt on front valve cover.

If I remove the front fork tubes, I think there will be room to put an insert in that stripped hole.

The fork oil needs to be changed anyway.

For now, I'll ride the bike as is.

jb

That is a perfect time cert repair. Excellent work. :clap:

Shade tree mechanic extraordinaire :clap:

We dodged another bazoka.

You couldn't stand to be without your RX buddy for long.

That is awesome JB! Thanks for sharing the repair with us. I'm genuinely glad your bike is fixed!

Yes, Jb has shared so much over the last year with his ride reports and oil analysis etc. I have learned much , would hate to lose him all to triumph m.c.'s

Great job on the repair. I'm glad it worked out for you, and please keep us updated on the front (exhaust) cover repair!

Thanks, BB.

My intention is to relate my experience with the RX3, not to be critical.

I enjoy riding the RX3 in FL, but it really is better suited, IMO, to the low speed, curvy mountain roads of north GA, NC, TN.

The mechanical issues I have had with the bike are mostly caused by stripped bolt heads and threads, which I have replaced with better quality bolts,

.....and the constantly changing valve clearances.

Others have ridden the RX3 many miles with no problems.

jb

Awesome work jb! Glad she's back on the road again!

jb, glad you were able to fix the problem. My lessons here are (1) use anti seize on those bolts, (2) lock washers on same, (3) order a 6mm time cert kit. Thanks much for sharing.

Peter Y.

It shouldn't be too long.

I'm planning on changing the fork oil at 10,000 miles...should be in a week or two.

jb

My thoughts also.

If you use the anti-seize and the lock washers, there shouldn't be a need for the Time-serts. ;)

jb

I agree with that as well.:tup:

Here's some food for thought. Split washers (lock washers) might not be the answer in all cases. Take a look at this option:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKwWu2w1gGk

Peter Y.

Thanks for posting! I'm surprised that the Nylock nut did so poorly. These washers are impressive

Hi Peter,

I'm aware of Nord-lock washers...didn't have any on hand, only split washers.

Since a bolt with Nord-lock washers increases the tension when unscrewed, I wonder if it would exert enough force to affect the soft aluminum threads in the cylinder head?

Do I really need to spend $1+ per washer? ;)

https://www.amazon.com/Pair-Nord-Vib.../dp/B0040CTYX8

And you know that now every time I stop the bike, I check those valve covers...

Think I checked them a half dozen times on today's ride.

jb

jb, the Nord-lock route is more expensive...no argument there. At the same time, I bet you would have traded $4 for not having this whole 'adventure'. I just ordered a pack of 6mm and 8mm Nord-lock washers for my tool box. Very few fasteners are 'stop the bike' critical but your experience tells me that the valve covers might fall into that category.

Peter Y.

BTW, I'll be in FL 9-18 March for Bike Week. I'm camping about 3 exits north of Daytona Beach.

Nord locks are great in the right application. The valve cover bolts is not one of those.

You are correct about that. The RX3 has been more "adventure" than I bargained for.

Though I don't think the Nord-Locks would have prevented the threads in the cylinder head from becoming stripped.


I would never have thought that virtually all the engine oil could be lost out of an open valve cover.


Camping with the MG guys again?

Since I only go for a day trip, probably won't have a chance to meet up...maybe at Marlington... ;)

jb

So far, of all the miles and bikes out there, is this the only RX3 to do this that we know of?

I do think it says something about the durability of the motor to puke most of its oil out, stop running, then live to rev again after the fact, without a major tear down and rebuild. Pretty amazing really.

Not camping at Camp Carlo. That's too much like roughing it for me. I'll be at Holiday Travel Park in Ormond. My Norton buddies have been staying there for about 10 years now. The Travel Park is gated and thus less wild and crazy, has good bathrooms and not too crowded. There is a grocery store within 1/2 mile so most of the bases are covered without having to go far. Camp Carlo is a long way from anything and the gate closes at 10PM (or something like that).

2LZ, these things only happen to my RX3,

......so I can keep you guys entertained. :)

jb

Update:

After the Great Oil Spill, I rode another 150 miles.

Kept hearing metallic noises, even with earplugs in, and helmet on.

Decided to do another oil change. This made number eleven.

At the last oil change, I switched from the metal mesh oil filter back to a paper filter with the idea of checking for metal particles.

There had been no sign of any metal since about 5,000 miles.

They are back, big ones, and a couple dozen smaller ones:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psemgpscqv.jpg


And a larger sliver attached to the magnetic drain plug.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psqqzsbjce.jpg

Not much I can do about it now.

I put in a new filter and oil, set the valves once again (one intake +.001 greater, 1 exhaust at -.001 under).

I have been contemplating my options:

...A new engine is not happening...$2,600 US plus my labor to take out the old one and install the new one, is more than the bike would be worth on the used bike market.

...No local shops will work on a China bike. There are only two in town, and I have asked.

...I am considering sending the engine back to CSC for a re-build. CSC Gerry says the labor will be ~$350 US (engine out of the bike), plus parts, crating, and shipping. I estimate at maybe $1,000 US......and I still have to remove and install the engine, crate and ship it myself.

...Sell it, as is, to someone who can do the rebuild themselves.

...Part the bike out. I am really not interested in advertising, packing and shipping dozens of parts.

...Donate it back to a CSC employee who could rebuild it ..they would need to pay shipping.

...Ride it, as is, until it quits...I'm thinking of starting a pool on how many miles it will last...:)

Are there any options I am missing?.....other than setting it on fire.

Currently, I am still riding it.

And if I keep the RPMs high enough, the exhaust noise drowns out the metal tapping noise....;)

jb

jb, this makes me sick. I cannot imagine what would cause so much metal in your oil but, whatever it is, it ain't good. Best of luck getting to the bottom of the problem.

Peter Y.

I still think the piston seized, then when the engine cooled, it freed up.

Only an engine tear-down will give the answer....

jb

Do you have access to a borescope? You might be able to get a look at your piston and cylinder walls through the spark plug hole.

At this point, I would just change the oil again and keep an eye on the filter and magnetic drain plug to see how much metal is accumulating. Hopefully it will stop and, if there's no other ill effects, just keep riding.

jb, I have a cheap HF borescope if you want to borrow it to check through S' plug hole ,I'd be glad to send it to you, rj

Thanks, rj.

I have a borescope and a compression tester, but they are both in NC.

If I decide to remove the engine, I will trailer the bike to NC where I have the space and tools to do the job.

The loud metal tapping seems to be coming from the top end. It suspiciously sounds like the noise the engine made when the camshaft was damaged before.

jb

This was kinda my thinking, put the peddle to the metal (mabey poor choice of words).

Further Update:

I took rt's advice, and rode the RX3 another 1,000 miles, with the metal tapping noise.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psaoowjun0.jpg


Then did another oil change:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pskfqy9sjf.jpg


The magnetic drain plug looked promising...about the same as usual:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psqil5qi8y.jpg


The filter still had quite a few sparkles, but they were not as large:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psakdvbgsm.jpg


Except for the metal tapping noise, the bike starts quickly, and has the same amount of power and acceleration as always.

Using a mechanic's stethoscope, the tapping is coming from the top end..... you know.....just like last time...at the 3,000 mile mark.

The tapping is not proportional to the engine rpm....just like last time.

That time the tapping turned out to be related to the decompression lever/mechanism, which required a new camshaft and related parts.

I never fully understood exactly what was making the tapping noise, and CSC did not return the damaged parts as requested.

Which leads to another disappointment...my last two emails to CSC Gerry have gone unanswered.

I'll try again when I'm ready to disassemble the engine.

jb

Hopefully things are stabilizing on the bike!

Just wondering if Gerry is on vacation or something. maybe a quick call?

Nearly forgot...sent an oil sample to Blackstone.

I mostly wanted to know about the metals in the oil....which looks to be normal for the engine.

Also wanted to check of the fuel in the oil. It no longer seems to be of any consequence...less than 1/2 %.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psamwov3kq.png

Even if the metal residue has stabilized, to fix the metal tapping cost ~ $500+ US.

jb

That's a bummer on the repair cost.

Mine also has a pretty noisy tapping once warmed up from the top end. I've checked the valves twice to be sure. It started midway through my 4K trip last summer and got louder until I returned home. Honestly it's been basically garaged since and I've ridden my Guzzi when free time was available. Ive been on permatravel for this year and haven't messed with sorting the RX3 out but I've got a bad feeling about its longevity. Mine has 7200 miles.

Does yours start quiet then start tapping as it warms?

The oil analysis looks great, considering what that motor has been through. That's pretty amazing that you can run an RX3 virtually out of oil....and it still runs.

Lee, I remember your ride report, and the drastic effect that a strong headwind has on fuel mileage.

My noise is not tappy valves.

At 12,000+ miles, I know what the normal valve sound/noise is.

Here's the sound file of the first time it happened:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pszldnffs4.mp4


The new tapping noise is slightly different...haven't yet recorded it.

I suppose the only way to know for sure is to open up the engine.

Something I'm not inclined to do.

I hear what you are saying.

I have my reservations about the engine, also.

However, there are thousands of these engines worldwide. I would think if this is a common occurrence, we would hear more reports of the same.

Hopefully, my engine problems are an isolated case, which is a shame,...

.... since I have only good things to say about riding the RX3.

My new Triumph sits next to my Zong, and 3 times out of 4, I will ride the RX3...on any ride less than 200 miles.

Personally, I think the problem is due to poor or sub-standard metallurgy.

Of the more than 25+ different bikes that I have had, this is the only one that has caused me such grief.

I'm trying to follow that "permatravel" philosophy.....going with the flow.:)

I am going to ride the RX3 until it stops.

However, I am leaving for North Carolina this week to sell my DR 650 to an eager friend......I'm having second thoughts about selling it....:hmm:

jb