I ended up ordering before I saw this, so I hope what I purchased will work. I will find out when it gets here Thursday and let you guys know!

Just a side question: Does anyone know the screw type for the footpeg mounts on this bike? I went to home depot and couldn't find anything similar because it appears to be a high thread machine screw...

Spec (M?x?...) are listed in http://www.puzey.co.za/Resources/Puz...e%205.06mb.pdf Fig. 40

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GB_# means meets specific govt standard ie. those item are easier to find in hardware store than bike shop.

That's it, im printing this and gluing it to my forehead :D

Thank you for the link as always :), I keep forgetting to refer to that :doh:

I had to drive like 30 miles to get to the only store near me that has this screw, but it was worth it! The only difference is all they had was a standard black hex socket version which will rust, so after everything comes in the mail and I don't need to open the clutch anymore I am going to put the screws in then coat the heads with black paint to protect them. I will update everyone as soon as anything comes in the mail :)

You would be surprised how long those screws will last with just the residual oil from the engine on them. They are hardened steel and since you do not have salt to contend with I would not worry about them at all. john

Well the thing is I used a smaller version of the same screws on my carb and they are all completely rusted.

Update

Links to all things:
- KN-131 Filter
- Speedometer Cable
- Tusk Truing Stand
- Tusk Spoke Wrench
- Spokes that will be here next week
- Magnetic Oil Drain Plug that will be here within the next decade
- Dirt cheap tire irons

I have received the speedometer cable, truing stand, spoke wrench, and a K&N oil filter. I proceeded to get my rear wheel off which involved precariously lifting my bike on a car jack with a contact of around 2 square inches which was nerve racking to say the least :D. To get the tire off I needed some tire irons, so I contacted my local car shop who said for a 24" tire iron it would be $80. I laughed in his face, hung up the phone, and drove to harbor freight where I purchased 2 for $10.

I put the rim on the stand and loosened every spoke to the max, then sprayed everything down with wd40. After letting everything soak, I attempted to try truing the wheel. My method was to go every 3rd spoke as it says in Tusk's video, then skip one and go every 3rd, etc, etc, untill every spoke has been tightened. I spun the wheel and it was horrible looking, so I ignored the stand's tools and just did everything by how each spoke felt in the wrench. After doing this for some time, I spun the wheel and it was very true to my suprise. I just had to do some minor adjustments here and there. The only spot that is not proper is where a spoke is missing, and even then it is a very small deviation.

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...501_191335.jpg


After this I started on the front wheel, but noticed it is on there with a 12mm hex key bolt which I (nor any hardware store in my area) has. I went ahead and broke out the JB weld and got an old 1/2 inch socket. I then got a 1/4" bolt with a head size of 12mm, then got two half inch nuts that thread onto the 1/4" bolt and threaded them together so they lined up and were stuck together. I put these into the 1/2" socket and JB welded everything together so it will never come apart. The result, a 12mm hex key socket adapter :D

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...502_195039.jpg


The speedometer cable was a perfect fit, and so was the oil filter. In some other threads I have read people have disagreed on whether certain filters fit or not. I can say without a doubt that on a 2013 XF200 with kick and electric start the KN-131 fits perfectly. Here are some pics of the filter:

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...502_195012.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...502_195002.jpg

You got a lot of good work done. :tup:

I have definitely had a busy few days! Unfortunately I can't ride the bike till all my clutch stuff gets here on the 6th :cry:

Excellent work. Nice job on the socket, and good for you for heading to HF for pry bars.

Just a question about the truing of the wheels. How tight should the spokes be? Without a spoke torque wrench I am unable to know how tight they are/should be. I was told to tighten them so they require a nice push but not so much that you actually need to make an effort to loosen them. When comparing my job to the untouched front wheel, the front wheel's spokes have a bit more give in them, however I am not sure if that is because I tightened my wheel too much or the front wheel wasn't proper since the beginning and has been loosening up.

Unless one is obsessive compulsive, it is pretty hard to over tighten the spokes. ;) Tighten them enough so the spoke makes a metallic ping when you strike it with a wrench/screwdriver shaft. ;)

Also, don't expect all of the spokes to make the same note when you strike them. A ping is a ping.

That is true, and quotable. :)

:lol: