Pictures.
A couple of quick shots of it, just because. These are reduced image size. Click the picture for a bigger picture if desired.
https://i.ibb.co/Dbx0hBP/PE28FL2.jpg https://i.ibb.co/Yksgp5N/pe28fl.jpg https://i.ibb.co/4YcF61m/PE28FL1.jpg https://i.ibb.co/8488vMG/PE28FL3.jpg |
I ordered one and an exhaust for my brozz. Thanks for the info
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You will also need either a pod filter or to make a custom intake tube to your air box as well, so keep that in mind. As far as jetting suggestions, the 35 pilot should do the trick, if not order a 38. The 40 in my experience is too big. Main jet, I would start with the 115, which is likely close anyway. If you are near sea level a 118 or even a 120 might be worth having on hand as well. |
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Been running the Nibbi PE28 for about 7,000 miles now and love the carb. If they ever show up on sale I'll be picking up the flanged for sure. Glad Nibbi keeps making new stuff.
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This is the stock intake bolted up to the Nibbi flange finger tight.
https://i.ibb.co/G0VhTM3/PE28FL4.jpg The original studs are just barely long enough that they should work. If you would like the stud to be longer, you would have to find a stud that is no more than 3mm longer than the original one though. The reason why simply has to do with the body of the carb where the enrichment plunger is housed will make contact otherwise. The other option would be to switch to bolts. In either case, the side pictured needs to be started first so that you can get the nut over the threads to start it. If you try to do it the other way around you can't clear the nut past the body of the carb for the same reason the longer stud can only be 3mm longer. Simply not enough room. I am going to run the original studs and nuts with some thread locker on them and treat the intake and carb as one complete assembly. Since the space is so tight on that plunger side anyway it would be even more annoying to try and remove the carb that way. The intake bolts are much easier to access. |
Mine came with a 112 main and 40 pilot installed. It came with 110,112,115,118 mains and a 38 and 40 pilots. So I’m going with 115/38. Sad part is I was removing the air box and grounded my starter solenoid on a bolt and started smoking the ground wire. I know my battery is smoked now. I even told myself to unhook the battery.
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[IMG]https://i.postimg.cc/zVtjPDSp/A63-B0...-D6-BBF2-C.jpg[/IMG]
Exhaust will be here tomorrow and will go for a rip. |
I'm curious. what's the tube protruding out the side, near the idle adjust knob do?
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Sucks about the ground wire and the battery. I was replacing my stone dead battery anyway so I avoided this potential issue by default. Quote:
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I got her running. Started right up with the “choke” but wanted to stutter pretty bad and with it off. The mixture screw was 2.25 turns out so I turned that in over one turn and it cleared it up pretty well. I think I am still a little lean but she ripped pretty good and midrange was quite a bit more power. I am going to play with needle height and maybe primary jet.
[IMG]https://i.postimg.cc/T3vdq1qY/AE8989...1-AFCC3-BE.jpg[/IMG] |
Oh and the exhaust is a “stoneman” exhaust off of Amazon. And I had to drill 2 new holes for the mounts and I had to slot one of the flange bolts.
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I know on a stock CG250 the 35 pilot is just about perfect, maybe a Teeny tiny bit small, so the 38 being the same way with the exhaust sounds about right.
I am waiting for my throttle cable to get here before I can install mine. Le sigh. That and our weather went back to trying to be winter again. |
I put the 40 pilot jet back in and surprisingly about 1.25 turns out on the mixture screw. It’s really snappy now on the bottom end and is really close for cooler weather. So I’m at 115/40 and it’s running pretty good. I suspect I might have to play with it in the summer tho. But right now it’s pretty good, even kick starting pretty easily.
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