Did you pull the carb and clean it?
The slide needle position affects mid range fueling. If your problem is solely just idling... needing choke (more fuel) to stay idling... you need to check/clean the pilot jet in the carb. The pilot jet has such a tiny hole in it for fueling at idle... that it clogs easily from any rust or debris in the fuel... or clogs when gas varnishes (goes stale). Cheers! |
Agreed. It could also be that the pilot mixture screw needs to be tweaked a bit.
Darkrider, yes, the clip is within the slide on the jet needle. As RC says, it's for midrange. |
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The screw out the right side with a spring on it is the idle speed screw. You set the idle with this screw. The fuel air mixture screw is on the bottom of the carb... facing down. Both main and pilot jets are inside the carb float bowl. Have to remove the bowl to get to them. Shut off fuel and drain the bowl with the drain screw first.
Cheers! |
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Now after carb clean/rebuild... when you put the mixture screw back in... thread all the way in to gently tight... and back it out the # of turns you wrote down... to put it where it was originally. If you need more fuel... turn out another 1/4 turn. Less fuel... turn in 1/4. You get the idea. Cheers! |
Ok i had a chance to tinker on the bike earlier this week and if the mixture screw is the one i think it is...i can see why people curse about its location! Would it be the one thats kinda tucked into a notch at the front of the carb bowl and you pretty much have to take the plug wire off and try not to make contact with the header to get at it with the carb on bike?
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That's the one. You could try one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Fuel-Mix...83fe7b&vxp=mtr
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Hmm may need to put that on my watch list...even though the bike doesnt have a Mikuni carb on it... |
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So with that said i guess im going to be setting this lil X33 up for myself...Suspension height wise it seems to be about right though i would like to adjust the rear shock so the spring is a little more firm in the rear. More then likely will end up draining the front forks and filling them with heavier weight fork oil along with some PVC plastic pipe spacers to increase preload on the front springs. I was able to adjust the air/fuel mix jet with the aid of a pair of needle nose vice grips but i still need to set it up a bit better...so i will probably wait till i can pull the carb and note where i have it set now. Other then that i will probably end up doing the following: Bicycle speedometer rechargeable LED lights (seen some awhile ago that are self contained and are bright as hell while holding a charge for about 2 hours of use) Might research retrofitting some sort of charging system onto the bike to run a gel cell battery and possibly an LED light like a Rigid dually 3x3 cube light as a permanent headlight. If i can sort out the charging system idea there is a slim chance i might be able to register the bike as a street legal super moto type bike. If i manage that one...well there is a damn good chance i may go looking for spare rear hub to lace up a 17" rim to... |
You could solve the charging issues by Frankensteining a CG200 motor in there. That would be fun!
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I am jumping in on this late so sorry if it was already covered. Your bike has to have a stator and a cdi putting out power to your coil for engine spark. With a multimeter how many volts is your stator putting out? I would think all you need is a regulator if you don't already have one, a battery and a headlight. You can even skip the battery and run the headlight straight off the regulator like the old time bikes but your headlight will go dim when the engine slows down. You might be able to keep the headlight bright by using an led lamp instead of incandescent. I wouldn't install a headlight switch, just wire it straight in so it is always on if the bike is running. Keep it simple as possible.
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