The prices are via CSC's website. I forgot to add in shipping, so add on another $100.00 to the grand total to be safe.

Thanks for the effort, ZS.

I did look up the price of a new engine: $2,480. US plus $115 shipping.

It's not worth it to put $2,600 into what would be a $2,600 used bike.

Maybe someone would like to buy a parts bike.

Hopefully it won't come to that.

jb

I took a closer look today.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf8s2om5j.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psvam3b3aw.jpg


You wouldn't think that you would lose that much oil from an open valve cover.


This is what came out when I drained the crankcase:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psksaiweet.jpg


The oil filters had only a few specs of silver and the magnetic drain plug none....maybe I'll be lucky:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pskuf9sktl.jpg


I replaced the filters and drain plug, and filled the crankcase with new oil.

Then removed the spark plug and squirted motor oil into the spark plug hole, and tried turning the engine over by hand.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pswmdea3ys.jpg

It turned over....:tup:

Then decided to check the valve clearances:

Intakes were at .005" and .008" Reset them to .003"

The exhaust valve clearances were both at .003+" ...not as much drag on the feeler gauge as I would like but left them alone.

When I went to reinstall the valve covers, I found a clue as to what may have happened.

One of the bolts on the front valve cover had slivers of aluminum in the thread.

And when I tried to screw it back in place, found that the threads in the cylinder head hole where stripped...>:(

Then retrieved another M6x20 bolt to replace the missing bolt for the rear cover only to find that hole also had stripped threads.

The threaded holes were not stripped when I checked the valves 500 miles ago. :hmm:

Those slivers of aluminum on the valve cover bolt brought "galling" to mind.

galling

I hadn't encountered this in years, but basically what happens is that under pressure, the aluminum threads in the cylinder head bond to the steel threads of the bolt.

When the bolt is removed the aluminum comes along, and the hole is stripped.

This is only speculation as to what happened.

Regardless, I now have two holes to fix before I can refasten the valve covers.

Retap with a larger bolt? Heli-coil? Time-sert?

That's for another day.

jb

Thus the valve cover Jammed the rocker arm causing the seize when you tried to turn it over with the electric starter.

This is looking better but still a bummer. Hope the thread issues works out. This stuff can be tricky. Make sure you hold your mouth just right and pray.

When you get it fired, stick that long screwdriver head in your ear and start probing around.

I think its gona be alright, i know the mechanic and he's good.

Mabey you could convert it to those high quality/strength stud bolts if you have room to lift the cover free of the studs. . Then those studs would not have to be budged again.Just a thought :shrug:not sure

LOL... really!

It would be a mungle of a thing to start.... crank on the starter till oil
pressure is high enough...

And imagine after a oil/filter change when everything is empty...
that would be a 2 battrey job...



..

JB,

Great that the motor turns freely! Hopefully no cylinder wall scoring or ring damage. But likely it'll be just fine, especially since you saw no metal in the oil.

While it might be tempting to just retap the threads for a larger bolt, I think that if you're correct about the galling, then I'd opt for the Helicoil or Time-sert. Those are permanent solutions and you'll never run into the galling issue again.

As for the striped 6mm threads..
just retap them with 1/4" unc...
no drilling just run the tap into the
striped 6mm hole...
It really is that simple...




...

All are valid repair methods. It really depends on what you have at hand. If you happen to have some Helicoils that fit, use those. Same for the Time-Serts. Neither is going to be better than the other here. We're talking around 5-10 ft/lbs of torque max for a M6x1.0 bolt, depending upon grade, in this application. Cost-wise, Time-Sert kits will set you back more than the Helicoil kits. Pete's suggestion of tapping to 1/4" UNC would work as well, but then you're left with two bastard bolts in the engine. I usually try to avoid a situation like that. Keep it metric or american, not a mix.

BlackBike's suggestion to install studs is interesting. It would solve any future thread galling in the existing, un-stripped holes for sure, but I'm uncertain about clearance on the exhaust side of the engine to remove the valve cover. I would probably stay with bolts if it were my bike and I planned on selling it in the near future.

Yes, really. Many fuel injected vehicles have safeguards in place so they don't grenade themselves. Both oil pressure and voltage.

Honda generator/compressor/lawnmower engines do as well...

I was think this too, also don't outboard engines have this? Just depends on how electronically complex.

He said it started losing power, is there a oil pressure sensor on this rx3? Wouldn't be surprised, then when it goes out of spec, software excuses "limp mode" this is common strategy in auto's

Katflap... oil sensor?

Hmm, let me see..........

Attachment 8414


Nope, sorry , no oil sensor on the RX3 :ohno:

JB, really sorry to hear this has happened. As a Harley owner, I know a thing or two about screws randomly missing. I can't begin to tell you. I just got in the habit of inspecting them all before I ride. It's a bit time consuming, but when you have lost as many as I have it's worth the time.

My husband said the same thing as Pete, btw. Once you give yourself the time to get back to it.

On another note, we'll be in West Palm Beach for month in March. Are you near there?

thanks, i have been having issues with the site . can't get it to update correctly and spotty log on.

cool cat, black and whites have the best temperament in my opinion.