I have the tall seat and can say that I reach the ground fine. I only have a 29" inseam, so I'm either on the balls of my feet, or I slide one butt cheek off to the side to flat foot it. If your inseam is greater than mine, then you will have no problems. And yes, the seat helps greatly with legroom. I highly recommend it. It also has firmer foam, so longer rides are more comfortable. The stock seat starts to feel uncomfortable for me after about an hour of riding; it takes 2 1/2 to 3 hours before I start to get antsy with the tall seat.

There is some vibration at 60 MPH, but it is very minimal; and nothing at all like the RX3. You can discern the difference between a car vs a truck behind you, for example. I have not tried my RX3's Double Take RAM mounted mirrors out on the RX4, but I can tell you that the RX4's OEM mirror vibrations match, or best, the Double Take mirrors vibration when they are installed on the RX3. I would think that the Double Take mirrors would completely eliminate vibration when mounted on an RX4. And vibration is about all that you would need them for, since the RX4's mirrors do not hit the ground when the bike goes down. At least not on pavement; I can vouch for that personally. If I get a chance, when the weather clears here, I'll switch over one of the RX3's Double Take mirrors and let yo uknow how it does in the 55-75 MPH range. Supposed to rain the next two days, so it will probably be Friday or Saturday before I can get to it.

The RX4 is already equipped with bar end weights. The lead shot might help, however, if the rider feels that vibration is a problem. Having said that, the RX4 has virtually no vibration in the handle bar, unless you are really lugging the engine down in the 2500-3000 RPM range. Even then, you tend to feel it more in the seat of your pants than in the bars or pegs.

RX-4 purchase
 

I was an early adopter of the RX-3, but sold it after around 1000 miles. I got distracted by something else. :crazy: I'll be taking delivery of my RX4 mid November. I'm going to do a fly and ride, and ride it home to Vegas. I've found a route that keeps me off the interstate. It will take longer, but that's the idea. I'm also having all the farkles installed at CSC. I purchased a Garmin Zumo 396 LMT-S that they will hardwire to the bike for me when I get there. The OEM spoked wheels will get shipped back to me. It will be nice to have a bike, that I shouldn't have to do anything to, for a change. ;)

Aluminum wheels with the 80/20 tires.
Tourfella luggage
Quick drain plug
Apollo heated grips
Aluminum skid plate
Wrap around handguards
LED spotlights w/switch
Seat Concepts narrow seat

My RX4 is smooth up up 6000 rpm then gets a little buzz around 6500 and is smooth again at 7000 and up. Not enough for me to feel and does not badly distort the mirrors. I would not have even noticed it, except that I hear a slight vibration in the aluminum skid plate. When I go back and ride my old RX3 it sure feels light weight and under powered compared to the RX4.

Rx4
 

I Contacted CSC—-NO REPLY!
 

I sent CSC an inquiry about the above information, but have not received an answer or reply!! I guess it’s not a problem for them since they have all those large motorcycle lifts in their shop! :hehe:
PCG[/QUOTE]

Working on RX4
 

Go to Amazon or to you favorite motorcycle supply shop and find a motorcycle kickstand plate or foot or pad as it is called. This will add length and stability to the kickstand. Then find a "SnapJack" from your shop or Amazon. This makes the kickstand act like part of a center stand while the SnapJack acts like the other part of the center stand. I have used this setup on both the front and rear wheel. It is stable, reasonably priced, and light weight.

A normal kickstand plate won't do the job. The OEM kickstand would have to be extended about 1.5" (maybe even more) to reduce the lean angle enough to be stable.

Try Removing Your Rear Wheel
 

Try removing your bike’s rear wheel using the kickstand foot plate and a SnapJack and see how your bike wants to slip off the non-secured SnapJack. Straining to move the rear wheel forward to remove the chain and rear disc from the caliper and the rear axle usually makes the bike fall off the kickstand and the SnapJack, especially if the bike is a very heavy model. I’ve been there and done that! :doh:
PCG

It is true that the SnapJack is not as stable as a good center stand. But when it is your only option on the road, you find a way to make it work. It comes with a good Velcro strap to clamp the front brake lever so the front wheel locks. That helps keep the bike from moving. It is not really meant for wheel removal, but if it is your only option, it can be done. For other type of work, the bike will be reasonably safe & stable. Be careful.

If you really need to remove a wheel, and really really have no other choice, say, you're on a trip in the middle of nowhere, you can always lay the bike on its side and work there. Good crash bars as the RX3/4 have, helps a lot. Not pretty, not easy, but at least it won't go anywhere. I even serviced my clutch that way once, without even removing the oil.

But I can tell you from experience that the tank will leak fuel. Could be just my bike, but when knocked over in a parking lot there was a lot of fuel spillage.

Mhh mine doesn't :hmm:

How full was the tank? When mine leaked it was probably over 3/4 full.