Wire 12V devices directly from the battery with a fuse for safest setup. If the charger draws ANY power when it isn't charging something, then you need to isolate it with a switch as well. Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) switches are cheap and lots out there.

The power drain while off was my main concern and why I wanted to have it ignition controlled, but I guess I'm not electrically inclined enough to do that right.

If you pull the gas tank and look on the left side of the frame there is an unused connector that is only powered on with the ignition. I happened to have the tank off doing something else when I noticed it. I believe others on the forum have mentioned it too. I judged it ideal for a phone charger. I clipped the connector off and added a pair of wires that ran up behind the headlight. I don't have a charger or phone mount picked out yet so I just tied them up for now. The wires are quite small, I would try to use them to power added driving lights or anything but they seem ideal for the low draw of a charger.

Our bikes use a generic wiring harness, which is why the headlight connector has insufficient lead length, the speedo sender is about 16-18" too long (on the 2024 TempX we just assembled), etc.

And, that lead under the tank is probably for a fuel tank level sender, which we don't have, of course.

They must have run out of rivets at the seat factory (my son's new 2024 Temp X). They used small metal screws to attach the rear mounting brackets and one screw dropped out while we were unpaccking. I have a pop riveittor and it took seconds to replace the screw. Much more secure. I think these will get replaced one by one, as they fall out!

I just removed the headlight to install a short extension on the upper mounts, install sequential led front turn signals, my high powered led H4 compatible headlight element, and maybe install a horn (missing). This is first gen Temp X, with a 5 speed. Frankly, I am amazed at how dependable this bike has been. The engine has been flawless, starting so easily, runs quiet, shifts smoothly.

I will take much more care tucking the wiring back in this time, and attach the lower headlight rubber straps, which have been loose for two years!

Bought and installed a Nibbi PE 30. For a dumb reason. I was tweaking the Youall. I had a lean bog and it was a bit too slow to warm so I figured to step up one with the low speed jet. But until I got around to that I jacked the idle air screw to see if I could improve it a bit. Backed it out a bit too far I guess and it disappeared out on the road.

I lost one years ago from a Honda too. Ended up having to replace the entire carb. Figured the same here. A "universal" one I had didn't fit. (Doesn't fit ANYTHING, I swear.) Two others borrowed off smaller carbs didn't fit either. So carb shopping I went.

It later occurred to me that one of you guys who had tossed the stock carb might hook me up but never mind now.

Stock type replacements that I saw looked like fairly crummy castings. Nibbis look nicer. Price of a 28 on Amazon doesn't thrill me much. Hit eBay and somebody not terribly far away had a 30 "open box" for like $25 under list with free shipping. I bit. Once I found the external dimensions for the manifold and air filter fittings were the same as a 28 and the stock one. Not gonna lie, the neato black color appeals to me too.

Jets are 140 and ....28, I think? I wrote it down. Cable, fuel line, and stock remote enrichener all fitted right up. To make it easier to swap the cable on I pulled the seat and tank. Also the intake. After taking off the oversized idle speed screw I managed to wiggle it into place.

A bit of burble getting fuel to and in it but I already feel it's going to be better at cold starts as is. Runs nice in the shop but responsibilities came crashing down and I haven't had a chance to actually ride it and get it really warmed up. Feeling pretty positive though.

How is the new carb doing? Got some driving time? I'm waiting on a new cheap horn to install before putting the headlight back on. Meantime, installed a Nibbi coil/plug wire and new starter cable. Also adjusted the chain since I just lowered the bike.

While waiting, I have the tank off so going to check valve clearance this morning.
I will probably take an inch off the kickstand. It is almost too long now. :lol:

@Thumper: I'm not who you replied to but the Nibbi PE30 on my 6-speed Templar X works well. The single jet I had to swap was the pilot jet from the preinstalled 40 to the included 35 to get the idle tuned.

No performance changes but now it doesn't run rich, which was my problem before (smelly exhaust, totally black spark plug). Looks nicer though, and who doesn't like a big knob? The idle mixture screw, I mean.

I ditched the handlebar-mounted choke lever for simplicity, a bit of a pain to reach in for the choke plunger but the benefits outweigh the occasional inconvenience.

I replaced my coil/plug wire, but not because of performance issues. The original coil on the 5 speed Temp X was good. The bike starts instantly, runs GREAT! But the catalytic converter bulb fire in the weeds last Summer had begun to melt the insultation. It was a cosmetic thing :hi:

I had this Nibbi coil laying around (model #DHXQ-C "racing coil") and decided to install it.

Attachment 31527

But when I got the tank off, I found that my original coil was a single connection coil (black wire from from the CDI). The green ground wire from the CDI to the original coil has a flat ring type connector and it is pinned under one of the mounting bolts between the coil and frame.

But it is just the ground wire. I replaced the ring connector with a spade connector and plugged it into the ground post on the coil instead. The coil body is grounded to the frame anyway.

It works as expected. I do not think it will help me win races, but at least the spark plug wire/insulation is NEW :tup:

For that you know have slap on at least two "Nibbi Racing" stickers. :)

Very little and with teething trouble. Work, rain, other projects. I swapped the gas tank (finally) to the new one they sent me a year ago. Since swapping carbs is easier with it off anyway. Evidently one side is plugged or something. No fuel from one side.
And evidently I moved the throttle cable. Now when I turn left the bike revs some. So all that has to be seen to.

Cold start is better but it will randomly just flat die. Restarts right away but it didn't do that before. Not like a cold/lean. not warm yet sputter and die, just flat shuts off.
Low, mid, and top end throttle response is pretty good. I'm thinking the jets in it are pretty close but I need to study on it.

Cold (OK, cool) morning it gave me fits trying to get going to work. But when I was ready to leave that afternoon it fired like instantly. Idled OK. All good, until it did that drop dead thing. The very low speed throttle response I was after is notably better than the Youall was but we have to allow that I know for a fact the low speed jet in the Youall was lean the last few rides.

The carb swap could have gone better but I'm good with it so far. Pretty sur eit will sort out the res tof the way.

Templar x vs m TOP SPEED cb250f VS pr250 FINAL gear ratios?
 

So is the pr250 much faster than the cb250 model is the x pro Templar x any faster in top speed than the cb250f? (5th vs 6th gear) ?

If you are comparing two 172FMM engines, both are 72mm pistons, make ~20hp. If you look at the PR250 that is sold on AliExpress, it is a 172FMM engine (249cc). It has exactly the same displacement as the engine in the Templar base, Templar M, and Templar X. The X is the only Templar that gets 6 speeds. CB250F is the model of the Templar X, and it has a ZS172FMM engine (249cc).

Neither makes more horsepower if that is what you are asking, so neither one is really "faster". Top speed does depend somewhat on gearing, and of course, your weight. 70mph is acheivable if you are under 200lbs and you put the right sprockets on it. Sixth gear just drops the rpm and you would need to choose a different sprocket than you might for a 5 speed 249cc engine to reach top speed for your setup/weight.

6 speeds give you more range, not more horspower-sprocket choices will determine what you can do with that hp...

But highway speeds come with highway risks. You want speed? These dirt bikes are not exacly made for excellent braking ability and they are lightweight, so tossed around by the wind including the wave coming of a passing truck.

Templar x CDI box
 

Good morning people. I have a 2023 Templar x. I bought one of these hi performance 6 pin CDI boxes. Actually I've bought 2. The orange one off vmc and the same one as talked about in this old thread. The naraku 6 pin adjustable CDI. My original was fine I just want a little better performance. Whenever I plug either box in it blows my main fuse immediately. Plug the old one in and it's fine. It has to be a different pin location. Can anyone tell me what the exact pin location is. If you have a picture of the location when plugged into your hi performance cdi box it would be greatly appreciated.

If you have a 6 speed, then you need a DC CDI.

The original 5 speed CDI was a AC unit. I tested the naraku adjustable unit on it and it worked. Here is the thread. It explains this:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...35&postcount=9

I did the same thing. I was buying some other stuff off Aliexpress or somewhere and thought about Thumper's thread. Ordered what as near as I could tell was a DC unit. When it arrived I put it on and POP went the fuse. Nope. AC unit. Tossed it in the junk box.