Here are some Zongshen stickers I found at Taobao. :)

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...cket=18#detail

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...cket=18#detail

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...cket=18#detail

http://gd4.alicdn.com/bao/uploaded/i...x400.jpg_.webp

You can buy the Zongshen, fuel tank stickers at Taobao for 15.00 Chinese Yuan, which is $2.40 USD.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...cket=18#detail

Installing the Tusk Grip Heaters is very straightforward, and easy, as long as one understands electrical wiring. These grips heaters work very well, and will last for years. I have installed them on both my Zongshen ZS200GY-2, and my Honda XR650L. :)

I put a single layer of one-inch, heat shrink wrap over the left handlebar before I install the left hand grip. The shrink wrap insulates the heater element from the handlebar, and greatly reduces heat loss. :)

The stainless steel, reusable oil filters are widely available for sale at Taobao, the Chinese version of eBay. The steel oil filters cost 29.90 Chinese Yuan, which is $4.78 USD. You can buy practically every part of the RX3 motorcycle, and the NC250 engine, at Taobao. However, shipping charges are high, so it is best to order everything you need in a single shipment. ;) By the time I am finished ordering parts for my Zongshen ZS200GY-2, the shipping charges are usually $75, or higher. However, I still save a lot of money by buying Zongshen parts from Taobao, rather than buying Yamaha parts from U.S. vendors. ;)

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...cket=18#detail

Group purchase for filters?
 

I'd like to order 2 reusable filters if anyone orders these (and is certain they are compatible). I'd pay any expenses plus a "finders fee" for their trouble. I still will use the CSC filter initially, maybe even sporadically, after I ascertain the size difference (if any) of passed particles the filters allow.

Same re Zong stickers.( Cost + finders fees and shipping, of course.) I'll leave the CSC ones on for the warranty period, as long as I get warranty as promised..thats fair, right:)? Its one yr, Parts and Labor, and an additional yr parts only, correct?
How will owners doing warranty if/when required be handled re labor cost?
What if there is some upgrade or recall?

Honestly, if there is a safety or functionality issue I can repair/upgrade, just ship me parts, give good tech support re install, and I'm good without $ for any labor. (Likely slower than someone doing it 5 times daily anyways)! However, if the washer on the crank isn't secured, and that causes oil starvation, then some other issue like that happens, I'm wanting to probably drop it off and let someone else deal with it. Not likely, I'm sure, but I don't want to be a
"beta tester" thats uncompensated.
If the bike was free, and, for that, I agreed to ride 10,000 miles (or whatever) a year, and have possible rebuilds enroute, thats another thing alltogether.

I feel 99.999% thats not happening. I think everyone on here having put deposits down for the initial and second batches feel the same way. Zong doing the around China sponsored ride was an example of that ALREADY done, and proving the bikes reliability, and suitability for extended miles and loong trips, cross country, and otherwise racking up hard miles in proof of the bikes excellent engineering and suitability for its intended use. LONG, trips. LOTS of miles, without much (if any) maintainance. Easy to perform said maintainance, when//if needed, though.

I'm going to give mine every long life advantage I know to do, then ride it's wheels off:)! (God and health allowing:)! Amsoil Motorcycle Synthetic oil (after break in with RotellaDiesel 10w40 for 1000+miles), Oil sample testing, best oil filtering available, and temp monitoring (oil cooler added if needed, maybe anyway:).
I'd like to have 10,000 mile patches to owner/members, 20,000 mile, and so on to hopefully 100,000? miles?(If interest is high in a group, maybe a club?)
Spud? WHat is expected rebuild life for these? Since its water cooled, it SHOULD be longer than air/oil cooled bikes, right? (other things being equal, of course). We KNOW that in excess of your proven 67,000 miles!:). I'd be soooo happy to go that mileage w/o needing a rebuild:)! Honestly, I hope I can even get to RIDE that much, before I need a rebuild:)!! hehe

If a big bore QUALITY kit is available (or similar power adder thats PROVEN safe,) I'm going to pull the trigger before that # of miles for the new top end and piston/rings kit, anyway. So moot point...Oh, and wow, I gotta mull over the warranty!! With the 2 yr parts warranty, I risk losing that support, probably, should I hot rod it above the basics that CSC/Zong allows. 1 yr Jap (and european bikes IF that long) weren't an issue, 2 yrs is a bit more, and definitely AFTER the mod bug bites, usually:)!
Steve, or Gatling, Big bore , etc mods are unavailabe, so moot now, but any idea re big bore, EJK upgrade, header/muffler upgrading and warranty stance re performance mods..?
Honestly, every other car, bike, boat, snowmobile, etc. has a no mods allowed by dealers (to the extent the law allows here in ALabama, if pushed, and a problem occours). That may be USA policy as well. Not sure though. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable re legal/warranty can answer that question (or CSC), if they have even considered it yet...:)!
Fun to dream about these fun things though:)!

Regarding warranties and their validity in the USA they must abide by the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

Here is the best way to think about a warranty coverage as the consumer.

If you modify the product from its original state the modification must be proven to cause the malfunction to not be warrant able.
The burden of proof is by the manufacturer.

For example- If you modify the head with larger valves and portwork and instal a tuner with the fuel injection and the transmission gear(s) to break.
The manufacturer will say its the extra load and the consumers responsibility. In actuality the manufacturer must prove that the changes caused the breakage.

Now if it was the clutch slipping that would be a gray area, but the manufacturer would have legitimate claim to denial.

I have already talked to Steve @ CSC about hop up parts.

Apparently big bore kits were looked at already and the engine was designed on a small format so they will not fit.

However I have a complete engine and other parts coming to make hop up parts. Valves, valve springs, cams, pistons, cranks, clutch springs, sprockets, brake pads, brake rotors should all be available very shortly from me after some reverse engineering and performance parts manufacturing. Cylinders, heads, clutch plates, transmission gears will all be a bit longer.

I can't wait to see what kind of power I can get out of this engine platform.

Wow! Did you buy an engine on Taobao?

I'm betting on getting at least a couple of hp by simple fueling changes and opening up the intake and exhaust. The AJP PR5 come stock spec'd at 27hp. As I plan to build this bike as an overlander I'm going to be very conservative with my performance enhancements so I don't jeopardize reliability.

Finding a reliable 10% power is usually easy. Finding the next 10% gets more tricky, trading some reliability for power. Then the scale starts sliding more and more.

I think I can get 15-20% reasonable then maybe 40% or more. Higher outputs would be more towards the guys using the engine in the dirt bikes racing them.

The different header pipe should increase HP as it would flow better on top end. That could be half the power increase for the AJP. Or a more free flowing muffler (but louder)

I really like the stainless steel exhaust header. :tup: I don't think this exhaust header has a catalytic converter inside it. What do you guys think?

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pss6xfjjtm.jpg

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psceo0riaq.jpg

Likewise, I don't think the midpipe leading to the muffler has a catalytic converter. Am I wrong?

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psg9t4xeo2.jpg

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psq0bmufcl.jpg

Please note the nice, large outlet from the muffler. :) I wish my two Honda mufflers had such large outlets. ;)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psla5atzo5.jpg

There is no catalytic converter in those images. Also looks like a very nice free flowing design.

I'm very inclined to keep the stock muffler. It should be easy to remove the end cap and check for any obstructions to exhaust flow. If necessary, I think it will be easy to modify this muffler. The large end cap should provide easy access for drilling a few holes in any baffle, or otherwise removing any large obstructions. :)

After inspecting, and possibly modifying the muffler, I am inclined to loan my RX3 to Dobeck Performance, and have them develop an EJK controller for the bike. :)

Thank you for your feedback, Jim. :)

A controller of some sort will be required for what I plan on doing.

Do you agree with my assessment of the stock muffler? I'm not inclined to spend money on an aftermarket muffler, especially when the stock muffler looks so good. ;)

After inspecting/modifying the stock muffler, I will inspect the air box, and possibly enlarge the intake opening.

http://img02.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploa...X-56676386.jpg