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I was in full tuck too and I don't have GPS so I'm depending on the speedo for accuracy. The TT250 speedo will give us MPH but counts in kilometers; the odo is counting up kilometers not miles. This was reported in a CSC blog post sometime back. They said a fix was in the works but I've heard nothing.
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Minor Storage
Being the "fun bike" for Mrs. 2LZ and not a commuter or store runner, she wasn't interested in any big trunks or big storage.....but she was interested in a glove box type of bag that could hold her wallet, glasses, cell phone or a water bottle. I took some rough measurements and put them on the cell phone for later usage.
I hit Cycle Gear on the way home yesterday and took a wander and ran into this. The Bilt (Cycle Gear's House Brand) magnetic mini tank bag....and it measured out almost perfectly. It has two magnetic wing flaps that can slip either under or over the tank plastics, glasses holder size zipper cases on each side and a decent center compartment that's expandable 3+". It also came with a carry handle, shoulder strap and a rain bag....so I snagged it. It was on sale for 24.00 and seemed just as heavy duty and well built as mini tank bags there costing twice as much. https://www.cyclegear.com/accessorie...-mini-tank-bag It clears the gas cap so you can still fill without removing it and it doesn't impede with your sitting position on the seat. It also seems the perfect small bag size for the worthless "rack" that the Hawks and TT's share so I'm thinking of making a large Velcro splotch and maybe mounting it back there like my Moose Racing bag is on Q. Options... Anyway, if you're looking for an inexpensive glove compartment and don't mind an unsightly wart dawning the beauty of the TT gas tank, this could work. |
perfect. that's all i need most of the time.
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they should be available with replacement magnetic pickup for the TT250 pretty soon. |
2lz, i see you still have the stock zong toolkit holder. on my 200, had the same thing. plastic is flimsy and will fail eventually and the lid goes along w your tools and whatever you have there. get the welder rod 4.00 case from harborfreight. couple of stainless hose clamps and replace that mickeymouse factory setup. the hf is emergency orange, hell for stout, and air/water proof- just right for carrying bike docs,tools, and the famed chinariders.net burrito!
you can get a 1.50 canvas tool wrap in the paint dept of walmart :) |
Brake Bleeding
Well, my damn sprocket has yet to arrive so I've been trying to pick up the last of the pieces around the rear rim being off and on-hold. I've had plenty of opportunity now to go over the TT250 with a fine tooth comb and see what I may have missed. Not much.....
Last night I decided it was time to bleed the front brake since it was assembled and Mrs. 2LZ was available to assist. Many here have complained about the brakes, either due to gunk on the rotors, pads that take forever to seat or whatever. I can say this beyond the shadow of a doubt....DUMP THAT STOCK CRAP AND PUT IN SOME GOOD DOT 4 NOW! My brakes worked ok. No real complaints...but I didn't like how much free play was in the lever, nor the spongy feel to them, especially on a hard squeeze...but they did stop. I can tell you that after we bled them and ran about 2 ounces of a good quality DOT 4 through it, it's a whole new brake! The free play is normal now and the spongy feel has vanished and has been replaced by a nice, solid feel. I can't wait to get it out on the road and see what difference it makes in stopping power. I'm definitely bleeding the RX3 once the TT250 is off the rack. I mean....who'dah thunk that some of these Chinese fluids may not have been top grade? ;-) Just like the fork fluid and motor oil, change the brake fluid. |
Things I've Discovered
A while back, one of our China Riders, I believe with a Hawk(?), TXDSRIDER, posted a thread regarding the cheap Chinese screws and how it snapped off in his brake master. I took the opportunity to swipe the first pic here from his thread and you see the end result.
I think I found the culprit. Of course, small screws are always subject to more issues than larger, stronger screws just by nature. There's not as much material, smaller threads, etc... I went to remove the master cover last night to bleed the front brake and I was remembering his thread at the time. The screw next to the grip came right out cleanly, the screw next to the banjo fitting wouldn't budge. Instead of fighting it with a regular Phillips, I busted out my rechargeable, light duty impact. It's perfect for these situations. One quick <bzzz> and it came right out without stripping the threads or wallowing out the head....and this is what I found. It seems that when (some of) these masters are filled with the spongy brake fluid from the factory, there may be an over-fill and some of it finds its way down the screw hole. Of course, DOT 3 is very corrosive and you see the result. It's not that the little screw is too cheap, it's that it's living in an adverse environment. I hit it lightly on the wire wheel (so light it didn't burn my fingers) and it took most of the threads with it thanks to the extensive corrosion. They didn't stand a chance. I ran a small tap down the hole to clean it out and I did put the screw back in carefully when we were done bleeding. I'll contact CSC to get a new one shipped. Anyway, when you go to dump this crap brake fluid, be very careful gang. |
2LZ...coat with anti seize for good measure ?
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That should be an easy one to find in stainless steel.
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Good thread. I ike that tool. I have an impact screwdriver (remember the case cover screws on Japanese bikes of the 60's-80's?) but it would be much to heavy for a screw like that.
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New brake fluid makes an incredible difference though. I went from barely being able to stop to being able to make the front end dive noticeably when I apply the brake. It's far better now than it was before. |
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