Rear brake issue (Apollo 125)

chiliphil1 · 04-07-2018, 01:13 PM

Hello everyone, I just acquired an Apollo 125 pit bike model DB99 for $100!! The bike is in good shape and after cleaning the petcock it runs great. Small issue with the carb, it won't idle with the choke off. It has a riveted float bowl so I can't clean it. I am trying to run some clean fuel and fuel system cleaner through it to see if it'll clear up, if not I'll replace the carb, but anyway..

The main issue I have with this bike is that the rear brake lever is WAY too far down, it's well below the foot peg and has to be pushed down about 6-8" to engage the brake. I don't see any adjustment on the arm, the mount, or the piston to actuate the master cylinder. Is there some way to move this lever up so that the rear brake can be used? I'm just not seeing a solution from looking at it.

Thanks for any help.

dirtbkr188 · 04-07-2018, 02:27 PM

Can you post up some pics of the area so we can see what you have to work with?

chiliphil1 · 04-07-2018, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtbkr188

Can you post up some pics of the area so we can see what you have to work with?

Yes, give me a little bit. I will try to have them up later today. Thank you.

Bruce's · 04-07-2018, 03:03 PM

You can drill out the rivets on the float bowl ,but a descent replacement carb is only $20.00 or so .

chiliphil1 · 04-07-2018, 07:40 PM

Here are the pictures.

In this one you can see the fully reset position of the pedal

https://ibb.co/mvtCxH

This one shows it depressed to where the brakes are engaged.

https://ibb.co/cbYCxH

This is the rod and master cylinder, no adjustments.

https://ibb.co/hvhcWc

The other side of the master cylinder

https://ibb.co/b7o4cH

chiliphil1 · 04-07-2018, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce's

You can drill out the rivets on the float bowl ,but a descent replacement carb is only $20.00 or so .

Yep, I may go that way. I'm just trying to run the cleaner through to see if it'll work, if not I'll try the rivets. I guess I can run a machine screw into the holes after? If I can't make that work I can order a carb, or possibly just buy one locally. I have a guy fairly close by who deals with Apollo and Coolster, he's probably got a carb in his shop right now.

dirtbkr188 · 04-07-2018, 09:07 PM

Two things that I see:
1. It doesn't appear to be the correct brake pedal, the master cylinder end shouldn't be bent in at an angle to hook it up to the brake actuator rod. There is very little (if any) upward movement because it is bent the way it is.

2. I can't really see the actuator rod itself all that well due to the mud and grass on it, but that looks like it isn't parallel to the master cylinder chamber, so it can't be pushing in on the inner plunger all that well. I also can't see if the actuator rod is threaded, normally they are so the clevis at the bottom can be adjusted up and/or down.

It also looks like the brake return spring is sprung, the pedal should come up to and hit the footpeg mount with your foot off the pedal. My best guess is that someone "MaGyver'ed" it just to unload it. A properly operating hydraulic brake system only needs maybe 1-1/2" of travel to fully lock up the wheel.

chiliphil1 · 04-08-2018, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtbkr188

Two things that I see:
1. It doesn't appear to be the correct brake pedal, the master cylinder end shouldn't be bent in at an angle to hook it up to the brake actuator rod. There is very little (if any) upward movement because it is bent the way it is.

2. I can't really see the actuator rod itself all that well due to the mud and grass on it, but that looks like it isn't parallel to the master cylinder chamber, so it can't be pushing in on the inner plunger all that well. I also can't see if the actuator rod is threaded, normally they are so the clevis at the bottom can be adjusted up and/or down.

It also looks like the brake return spring is sprung, the pedal should come up to and hit the footpeg mount with your foot off the pedal. My best guess is that someone "MaGyver'ed" it just to unload it. A properly operating hydraulic brake system only needs maybe 1-1/2" of travel to fully lock up the wheel.

Ok, thank you. The rod is definitely not straight, it's at an angle and will go up and lock the rear wheel but it has to be pressed way down to do it. You are correct that the rod isn't threaded to allow for adjustment, it is fixed. I'll look into a replacement lever and see if that helps out. I don't know any backstory on this bike, it was ridden by an adult and then left in a rental property. I bought it from the property owner when he cleaned out the house. Beyond that I know nothing of repairs or problems.

Thanks again for the help, I'll try to source a replacement lever and rod with adjustment.

dirtbkr188 · 04-08-2018, 05:44 PM

If you were to straighten the tip of the brake pedal that is bent inward, will that hit the swingarm or frame? You might want to try that and see if it lessens the travel of the pedal, and it may align the rod with the master cylinder a little better.

chiliphil1 · 04-09-2018, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtbkr188

If you were to straighten the tip of the brake pedal that is bent inward, will that hit the swingarm or frame? You might want to try that and see if it lessens the travel of the pedal, and it may align the rod with the master cylinder a little better.

Ok, I’ll give that a shot today. I’ve got some work to do on another project so that’ll give me a chance to tinker with it. Thanks again for the help.

dirtbkr188 · 04-09-2018, 02:37 PM

Keep us updated, I'm curious to see what you find out.

Weldangrind · 04-10-2018, 09:58 AM

If you're unable to line up the lever clevis point and the actuator rod, you could buy another China master cylinder on eBay that has an adjustable rod. You could then drill new mounting holes that move the master up and at a slight angle that works with the existing pedal. If necessary, you could cut a new mounting plate that bolts to the existing plate, unless you have a welder.

chiliphil1 · 04-10-2018, 08:03 PM

I’m going to get to it this weekend. Just wanted to update you guys. I installed a new rear tire today, what a pain! I also drilled the rivets and cleaned the carb, now it runs great. I bent the forward part of the brake pedal up to the foot peg and I see where the back portion is bend. I’ll get out there the remove the pedal and try to bend it as needed this weekend. I’m just glad the thing is running well now. I’ll also be installing the new engine in the ssr and new carbs on the 2 atvs this weekend so, it’ll be a busy one!

04-07-2018, 01:13 PM	#1
chiliphil1 Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 15	Rear brake issue (Apollo 125) Hello everyone, I just acquired an Apollo 125 pit bike model DB99 for $100!! The bike is in good shape and after cleaning the petcock it runs great. Small issue with the carb, it won't idle with the choke off. It has a riveted float bowl so I can't clean it. I am trying to run some clean fuel and fuel system cleaner through it to see if it'll clear up, if not I'll replace the carb, but anyway.. The main issue I have with this bike is that the rear brake lever is WAY too far down, it's well below the foot peg and has to be pushed down about 6-8" to engage the brake. I don't see any adjustment on the arm, the mount, or the piston to actuate the master cylinder. Is there some way to move this lever up so that the rear brake can be used? I'm just not seeing a solution from looking at it. Thanks for any help.
	0

04-10-2018, 09:58 AM	#12
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	If you're unable to line up the lever clevis point and the actuator rod, you could buy another China master cylinder on eBay that has an adjustable rod. You could then drill new mounting holes that move the master up and at a slight angle that works with the existing pedal. If necessary, you could cut a new mounting plate that bolts to the existing plate, unless you have a welder. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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04-10-2018, 08:03 PM	#13
chiliphil1 Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 15	I’m going to get to it this weekend. Just wanted to update you guys. I installed a new rear tire today, what a pain! I also drilled the rivets and cleaned the carb, now it runs great. I bent the forward part of the brake pedal up to the foot peg and I see where the back portion is bend. I’ll get out there the remove the pedal and try to bend it as needed this weekend. I’m just glad the thing is running well now. I’ll also be installing the new engine in the ssr and new carbs on the 2 atvs this weekend so, it’ll be a busy one! __________________ Apollo DB99 125, SSR 110, Kazumi 110 atv, Coolster 110 atv, BMW R nine T pure.
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04-07-2018, 02:27 PM	#2
dirtbkr188 Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 496	Can you post up some pics of the area so we can see what you have to work with?
	0

04-07-2018, 03:03 PM	#4
Bruce's Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sudbury ,Ontario Posts: 855	You can drill out the rivets on the float bowl ,but a descent replacement carb is only $20.00 or so .
	2

04-07-2018, 07:40 PM	#5
chiliphil1 Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 15	Here are the pictures. In this one you can see the fully reset position of the pedal https://ibb.co/mvtCxH This one shows it depressed to where the brakes are engaged. https://ibb.co/cbYCxH This is the rod and master cylinder, no adjustments. https://ibb.co/hvhcWc The other side of the master cylinder https://ibb.co/b7o4cH
	0

04-07-2018, 09:07 PM	#7
dirtbkr188 Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 496	Two things that I see: 1. It doesn't appear to be the correct brake pedal, the master cylinder end shouldn't be bent in at an angle to hook it up to the brake actuator rod. There is very little (if any) upward movement because it is bent the way it is. 2. I can't really see the actuator rod itself all that well due to the mud and grass on it, but that looks like it isn't parallel to the master cylinder chamber, so it can't be pushing in on the inner plunger all that well. I also can't see if the actuator rod is threaded, normally they are so the clevis at the bottom can be adjusted up and/or down. It also looks like the brake return spring is sprung, the pedal should come up to and hit the footpeg mount with your foot off the pedal. My best guess is that someone "MaGyver'ed" it just to unload it. A properly operating hydraulic brake system only needs maybe 1-1/2" of travel to fully lock up the wheel.
	1

04-08-2018, 05:44 PM	#9
dirtbkr188 Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 496	If you were to straighten the tip of the brake pedal that is bent inward, will that hit the swingarm or frame? You might want to try that and see if it lessens the travel of the pedal, and it may align the rod with the master cylinder a little better.
	0

04-09-2018, 02:37 PM	#11
dirtbkr188 Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 496	Keep us updated, I'm curious to see what you find out.
	0