One more noob buying a Rhino - Best Deal? - Page 3

uphill · 10-27-2017, 10:31 PM

Yep, we hit everything with loctite. Most bolts that were in place had some kind if threadlock on them already, but we added loctite for good measure. Seems like a nice solid machine. We just couldn't see what in the world went wrong with the start connection. The switch just flat is not getting any contact. No click or any life whatsoever to the starter. Battery is fully charged, but nothing happening just out of the blue. We had it running... runs and dies a few times like you'd expect at first... adjusting idle etc. Then went to start it again and nothin'! Any input greatly appreciated....

Darth Racer · 10-27-2017, 11:17 PM

Check the fuel cutoff switch. It could be bad. Sounds like its not getting gas or not enough of it.

For the battery problem it sounds like you might have to adjust the rear brake foot pedal. You will see a small switch under/behind the footwell. Pull it out and see if it starts. Make sure you are in Neutral.

uphill · 10-28-2017, 05:32 AM

Ok, there are probably a lot mocking emoticons you guys could post at this time.... aaaagh! This is my first quad, and my nephew, who's a crack mechanic, only has Japanese quads that must not require engaging the brake to start. NOW the million dollar question. Why did this thing crank and start repeatedly WITHOUT touching either brake???? Could that be the only Chinese bonus I'm getting with this puppy? The fact that it started several times without the brake is actually the glitch, possibly. Could it be that I run over there ASAP, pull in the brake to start it properly and it fires right up? I bet it will! All lights, everything electrical seems perfect. Unfortunately it's in someone else's shop and not my garage. Still wondering why it started multiple times without the brake..??????

uphill · 10-28-2017, 06:09 AM

Also noticed the left front wheel turns like the brake is stuck halfway engaged. I think the right was similar but not as bad, can't remember for sure. Is that common out of the box... just some pressure on them from shipping and they loosen up when you get it on the ground and drive? It occurs to me now, if the front brake was half stuck, that might've temporarily allowed it to start without touching the lever. Are they commonly a little sticky out of the crate?

Darth Racer · 10-28-2017, 09:03 AM

It might have started 7 times because you inadvertently had your foot on the brake.... If sitting on the ATV it's very possible. It's possible the switch is still in need of adjustment.. could just be loose.

The front hand brake has no control of the starting circuit.

Also don't forget about the cut switch on the left side of the handlebar. In order to restart it you have to push it in to reset it. If not it will turn over but not start. That one got me a bunch of times.

For the front brake situation. It sounds like you might have tightened the castle nut too tight on the front spindles. You want to get it to the point it free spins but one more flat would stop/slow that. Then put the pin through the nut. Also before installing it is a good idea to pack a little grease in the bearing. They will last much longer and it will help keep water out of the bearing.

uphill · 10-28-2017, 10:59 AM

Thanks for the wheel instructions. We'll do that rundown. Neither of us were sitting on it at all, so no back brake engagement, and we kept resetting the kill switch, so hopefully nothing wrong there. But I'm wondering if the front brake was temporarily stuck because according to this dealer, the front OR back works to enable the start. He uses the front in the video.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 10-28-2017, 01:21 PM

on the right side hand brake control .. there is a brake switch there... when you have either the left or right hand brakes applied the rear brake light will come on... it looks like you have no rear brake( as you have brake controller on the left side ) if the tail light works.. then it will come on... safety device.. the front wheel being sticky could be because the front brake cable is tight.. appling the brake ... or the nut is loose... sometimes when you assemble it the brakes are applied abit...the shoes catch the drum and drag.. check it out... it is good that you checked everything over.. make sure the chain is adjusted right... see how to adjust chain in the threads in the ATV section.. have fun

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 10-28-2017, 01:24 PM

forgot the 250 was a standard transmission.... yes you have a foot brake... check and see if it needs afjustment so it only applys the brake light power when you step on it..... apply a big gob of silicone on the plastic threads to hold it in the proper setting ... put it on th e thread area and the lock nut'

uphill · 10-31-2017, 12:35 AM

Done and home all in one piece last night, so I grabbed a pic today (photographic evidence - ask Swampy). In such a hurry to get it loaded up, I left a bunch of stuff including my two front wheel castle nut caps, as you can see. Couldn't seem to get the very edge bolt holes to line up on the foot rests, so those are still out at this time. I guess I could drill some more room out, but they're not going anywhere! We found the issue with the left front wheel was just that the brake was slightly skew, not quite seated straight... wheeew....

I think I might end up being thankful that Darth advised me to hold off on the sprocket mod until after riding. It feels good for around here, and with the little demand we'll put on it, it might offer more flexibility to just do more in first, being higher geared. I'll know for sure when we get the trailer and start pulling firewood. Sounds like Paul2 is putting way more on it (as far as hard rides / climbing) than I ever will and rolling with stock gears.

I might want that carb upgrade if it's always going to be sooooo cold blooded starting! Maybe just not used to it, proper choke etc. Does it get better with break in?

Darth Racer · 10-31-2017, 08:28 AM

I covered the foot well issue in my thread... study those pics carefully. The first two especially.

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....6&postcount=57

Mudflap · 10-31-2017, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uphill

I might want that carb upgrade if it's always going to be sooooo cold blooded starting! Maybe just not used to it, proper choke etc. Does it get better with break in?

Cold starting does get better with more hours on the engine. They are set lean to meet EPA regs. If you're not going to replace the carb (which I didn't do on either of mine) it would be a good idea to remove the brass plug over the idle mix screw so you can adjust it and put some slots in the float bowl screws so you can drop the bowl when cleaning is necessary.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 10-31-2017, 03:02 PM

yes you can drill the screws out and replace them with new ones. other than having to clean the jet ( only of you use regular gas ) using premium will let it not plug up... th e brass cover is good to remove.. drill a little hole.. use a o ring pick and pry it off.. this is for just the air mix on idle.. or on the float bowl comment if you want t o change the jets,, then do so..... I see on the EPA carbs the plunger needle is non adjustable now... no extra slots to lower or raise the plunger... crazy.. have to use very small washers to get extra fuel for start up

uphill · 11-02-2017, 09:58 AM

Yep, starts are getting better. I'm probably gonna have to try to run this unit as much stock as possible or if I really need to upgrade something, get help. My dexterity is just too much of a problem from the spinal cord injury I had. Thankfully I can ride though!

Right now I need to locate my battery charger to see if that's my problem. I had it running, no signs of any problem, turned off, came back about 10 minutes later, dead as a doornail. I read the stock batteries are junk, but how does a battery die in ten minutes after it showed no signs of losing power? I can't see any connection problem whatsoever with the ignition, but the gear light doesn't come on at all.

The only problem I've noticed prior to that was plastic bolt for the rear brake light connection broke (don't know when), and the brake light never responded to the front brake from the first test. I don't know if those issues are related, since I've started / run it quite a few times with no problems at all.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 11-02-2017, 11:31 AM

yes the hand brake and the foot brake are all tied in to one system.. the foot brake plastic switch has a lock nut to set the brake light to come on when applied.... I always put a big gob of silicone on the threads and nut to make it secure .. then it does not come out of adjustment.. if it has a remote start they draw power ( but not enought to drain in 10 mins) Take your stock battery to a place ( have it charged up) an d have them load test it.... it has a small capacity on it.. if it is a 12v 4 .. about 50 amps.. the 5 has a little more.. 12v 9 has about 100 amp.. ( these are rought figures) get a bigger amp battery you can just measure your opening.. you can always check the charging from the regulator.... I do not know how to check amperage on the atv... just know how to check voltage with ohm meter ... maybe some one out there can tell how to check amps.. ok..

uphill · 11-02-2017, 07:24 PM

Thanks man. I found my charger. It's a pretty decent Shumacher SE-82-6, always worked well for my Chang even when I was using the stock Chinese sealed cell that came with it. I just put it on, using the higher setting, and I could just barely start smelling it a little within 5-10 minutes, which tells me it was already getting more than needed charge.

Anyone have an idea what I need to check to see why nothing is coming on? Seems no way it could be the battery...

10-28-2017, 05:32 AM	#33
uphill Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 63	Hope this is it Ok, there are probably a lot mocking emoticons you guys could post at this time.... aaaagh! This is my first quad, and my nephew, who's a crack mechanic, only has Japanese quads that must not require engaging the brake to start. NOW the million dollar question. Why did this thing crank and start repeatedly WITHOUT touching either brake???? Could that be the only Chinese bonus I'm getting with this puppy? The fact that it started several times without the brake is actually the glitch, possibly. Could it be that I run over there ASAP, pull in the brake to start it properly and it fires right up? I bet it will! All lights, everything electrical seems perfect. Unfortunately it's in someone else's shop and not my garage. Still wondering why it started multiple times without the brake..??????
	0

10-28-2017, 06:09 AM	#34
uphill Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 63	Front Brakes Also noticed the left front wheel turns like the brake is stuck halfway engaged. I think the right was similar but not as bad, can't remember for sure. Is that common out of the box... just some pressure on them from shipping and they loosen up when you get it on the ground and drive? It occurs to me now, if the front brake was half stuck, that might've temporarily allowed it to start without touching the lever. Are they commonly a little sticky out of the crate?
	0

10-28-2017, 01:21 PM	#37
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	brake switch on the right side hand brake control .. there is a brake switch there... when you have either the left or right hand brakes applied the rear brake light will come on... it looks like you have no rear brake( as you have brake controller on the left side ) if the tail light works.. then it will come on... safety device.. the front wheel being sticky could be because the front brake cable is tight.. appling the brake ... or the nut is loose... sometimes when you assemble it the brakes are applied abit...the shoes catch the drum and drag.. check it out... it is good that you checked everything over.. make sure the chain is adjusted right... see how to adjust chain in the threads in the ATV section.. have fun __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

10-28-2017, 01:24 PM	#38
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	brake controls forgot the 250 was a standard transmission.... yes you have a foot brake... check and see if it needs afjustment so it only applys the brake light power when you step on it..... apply a big gob of silicone on the plastic threads to hold it in the proper setting ... put it on th e thread area and the lock nut' __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	1

10-31-2017, 03:02 PM	#42
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	screws yes you can drill the screws out and replace them with new ones. other than having to clean the jet ( only of you use regular gas ) using premium will let it not plug up... th e brass cover is good to remove.. drill a little hole.. use a o ring pick and pry it off.. this is for just the air mix on idle.. or on the float bowl comment if you want t o change the jets,, then do so..... I see on the EPA carbs the plunger needle is non adjustable now... no extra slots to lower or raise the plunger... crazy.. have to use very small washers to get extra fuel for start up __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	1

10-27-2017, 10:31 PM	#31
uphill Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 63	Yep, we hit everything with loctite. Most bolts that were in place had some kind if threadlock on them already, but we added loctite for good measure. Seems like a nice solid machine. We just couldn't see what in the world went wrong with the start connection. The switch just flat is not getting any contact. No click or any life whatsoever to the starter. Battery is fully charged, but nothing happening just out of the blue. We had it running... runs and dies a few times like you'd expect at first... adjusting idle etc. Then went to start it again and nothin'! Any input greatly appreciated....
	0

10-27-2017, 11:17 PM	#32
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	Check the fuel cutoff switch. It could be bad. Sounds like its not getting gas or not enough of it. For the battery problem it sounds like you might have to adjust the rear brake foot pedal. You will see a small switch under/behind the footwell. Pull it out and see if it starts. Make sure you are in Neutral.
	0

10-28-2017, 09:03 AM	#35
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	It might have started 7 times because you inadvertently had your foot on the brake.... If sitting on the ATV it's very possible. It's possible the switch is still in need of adjustment.. could just be loose. The front hand brake has no control of the starting circuit. Also don't forget about the cut switch on the left side of the handlebar. In order to restart it you have to push it in to reset it. If not it will turn over but not start. That one got me a bunch of times. For the front brake situation. It sounds like you might have tightened the castle nut too tight on the front spindles. You want to get it to the point it free spins but one more flat would stop/slow that. Then put the pin through the nut. Also before installing it is a good idea to pack a little grease in the bearing. They will last much longer and it will help keep water out of the bearing.
	0

10-28-2017, 10:59 AM	#36
uphill Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 63	Thanks for the wheel instructions. We'll do that rundown. Neither of us were sitting on it at all, so no back brake engagement, and we kept resetting the kill switch, so hopefully nothing wrong there. But I'm wondering if the front brake was temporarily stuck because according to this dealer, the front OR back works to enable the start. He uses the front in the video.
	0

10-31-2017, 08:28 AM	#40
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	I covered the foot well issue in my thread... study those pics carefully. The first two especially. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....6&postcount=57
	1

11-02-2017, 09:58 AM	#43
uphill Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 63	Yep, starts are getting better. I'm probably gonna have to try to run this unit as much stock as possible or if I really need to upgrade something, get help. My dexterity is just too much of a problem from the spinal cord injury I had. Thankfully I can ride though! Right now I need to locate my battery charger to see if that's my problem. I had it running, no signs of any problem, turned off, came back about 10 minutes later, dead as a doornail. I read the stock batteries are junk, but how does a battery die in ten minutes after it showed no signs of losing power? I can't see any connection problem whatsoever with the ignition, but the gear light doesn't come on at all. The only problem I've noticed prior to that was plastic bolt for the rear brake light connection broke (don't know when), and the brake light never responded to the front brake from the first test. I don't know if those issues are related, since I've started / run it quite a few times with no problems at all.
	0

11-02-2017, 11:31 AM	#44
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	brake light yes the hand brake and the foot brake are all tied in to one system.. the foot brake plastic switch has a lock nut to set the brake light to come on when applied.... I always put a big gob of silicone on the threads and nut to make it secure .. then it does not come out of adjustment.. if it has a remote start they draw power ( but not enought to drain in 10 mins) Take your stock battery to a place ( have it charged up) an d have them load test it.... it has a small capacity on it.. if it is a 12v 4 .. about 50 amps.. the 5 has a little more.. 12v 9 has about 100 amp.. ( these are rought figures) get a bigger amp battery you can just measure your opening.. you can always check the charging from the regulator.... I do not know how to check amperage on the atv... just know how to check voltage with ohm meter ... maybe some one out there can tell how to check amps.. ok.. __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	1

11-02-2017, 07:24 PM	#45
uphill Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 63	Thanks man. I found my charger. It's a pretty decent Shumacher SE-82-6, always worked well for my Chang even when I was using the stock Chinese sealed cell that came with it. I just put it on, using the higher setting, and I could just barely start smelling it a little within 5-10 minutes, which tells me it was already getting more than needed charge. Anyone have an idea what I need to check to see why nothing is coming on? Seems no way it could be the battery...
	0