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Old 07-17-2019, 05:30 PM   #1
SenselessOverloadi   SenselessOverloadi is offline
 
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Rear shock absorber linkage bearings

Was just servicing by bike and noticed one of the rear shock absorber bearings is dead. Does anyone know what size they are?

The one i need to replace links the drop link (steel fabricated part, made from 3 pressings and a tube) and the linkage (aluminium forged piece with 3 holes).

Thanks!

P.s. I posted here a while back about raising the bike, i did it and it seemed to be working nicely, other than having to run the chain quite slack. I wonder if that has anything to do with my problem...


 
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Old 07-17-2019, 11:23 PM   #2
dannybiker   dannybiker is offline
 
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Mine too

When my bike went in for its annual warrant of fitness I was surprised when the garage told me it had failed because the rear suspension bearings were shot. The ones in the bottom linkage.

They found bearings off the shelf which fitted so it wasn't super pricey but they did say that pretty much anything they dismantled was bone dry with no grease in joints bushes etc.

My bike had only done about 8000 km at the time.


 
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Old 07-18-2019, 05:00 AM   #3
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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I can supply the parts, 3 link alloy part comes complete as inner tubes are not sold separately
The dog bone pressed steel arm if bearings come out etc I can supply the bearings seals and inner collar to repair that, that arm only comes in pieces
PM if you need the items and it’s small enough that I can post it cheaply etc


 
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:16 PM   #4
calvarez   calvarez is offline
 
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How do you guys determine they are bad? Is it super obvious? My suspension seems to move fine, but at 12k and an unknown early service history, I wonder.
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2002 Honda CBR1100XX


 
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:18 PM   #5
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calvarez View Post
How do you guys determine they are bad? Is it super obvious? My suspension seems to move fine, but at 12k and an unknown early service history, I wonder.
They are near dry brand new - CSC did a review or a vid on squeaky suspension I think


 
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Old 07-21-2019, 02:41 PM   #6
pyoungbl   pyoungbl is offline
 
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It's worth your time to take the suspension bits apart and slather them with grease. This is just a 30 minute job (unless you want to lube the upper shock mount). Make sure you have the dog link on a towel when you are working on it. The needle bearings tend to fall out unless you have a good coat of grease holding them in place. The towel will keep the needles from bouncing off the bench, onto the floor, and off to some dark place where you will swear they have vanished. You can guess why I know this.

Peter Y.


 
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Old 07-22-2019, 02:57 AM   #7
Paeksukis   Paeksukis is offline
 
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I just did mine. One of my bearings are all rusted because the battery leaks and gets into the bearing and eats the rubber seal.
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Old 07-22-2019, 05:51 PM   #8
calvarez   calvarez is offline
 
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I need to crank up preload too, and the chain is getting close to needing replacement. Probably all good jobs to do at one time.
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Old 07-23-2019, 02:02 PM   #9
SenselessOverloadi   SenselessOverloadi is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calvarez View Post
How do you guys determine they are bad? Is it super obvious? My suspension seems to move fine, but at 12k and an unknown early service history, I wonder.
You can't visually tell if they need a service (ie clean +grease), but mine have collapsed so there is a lot of visible movement between the linkage and the shock absorber. There should be no visible movement. You can check by lifting up (well, taking the weight off) the rear wheel. ANY visible movement means you need a new bearing.


 
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Old 07-24-2019, 12:29 AM   #10
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenselessOverloadi View Post
You can't visually tell if they need a service (ie clean +grease), but mine have collapsed so there is a lot of visible movement between the linkage and the shock absorber. There should be no visible movement. You can check by lifting up (well, taking the weight off) the rear wheel. ANY visible movement means you need a new bearing.
Did you need parts? Or did you already solve that?

Mine was the same n loads of play so I looked at just bearings and pins but nothing listed in China for the pin and just ended up buying a complete unit plus bearings n pieces for the dog bone part.


 
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