Wiring upgrade. - Page 2

Rhino_343 · 07-15-2014, 08:59 PM

Ok maybe I will try jump starting from my car to definitely rule out the battery then. Thanks W&G

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 07-16-2014, 07:07 PM

Hello... you should not use your car battery..... your atv battery.. on the beast is maybe a 200 amp.... on the small 110cc they are 50 -75 amp...... you will use your car... 500 - 700 amp battery and hook it up to a smaller battery.... you can blow up your battery..... I know there are some EXPERTS out there who say I have done this many times... one of these times it does not work and bang... there goes your smaller battery... take the battery out and have it tested... there are many free testing stations..

Weldangrind · 07-17-2014, 12:59 AM

I'm not an expert, but I would not hesitate to boost my quad with a car battery, as long as the car engine is off.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 07-17-2014, 11:16 PM

If you have to do that ... that is the better way.... I have had several customers boost with their car... it was running as that does not help... and they blew the battery up... lucky they did not get any acid in their face... it blew the top and the acid out of the battery... as you say... if you had to boost with your car... do not have it running..

Rhino_343 · 07-19-2014, 10:28 AM

I ended up swapping out the battery from my DR650 which I new was reading a full charge and it still didn't make any difference... Thanks for the suggestions. I have ordered a new starter motor and new solenoid, hopefully that will sort it!

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 07-19-2014, 05:35 PM

did you try jumping the solenoid???? this will provide 12 volts tot he starter directly... and if it starts good... then you know it is either the solenoid or the start switch... which tells the solenoid to work... check it out as you are waiting for your parts... and this will tell you what to change and then store the other part..... as you could change both starter & solenoid and find out it is the starter switch.... all that work and cost for the wrong part...

TYE · 07-20-2014, 02:01 PM

Well I've been waiting a while to get the proper harness for my wiring fix and it's finally here. It went on quite easily. There are a few extra connectors that I don't have spots for but the rest went well until I tried to start it up. When I had made all the connections I hit the start button and the engine tried to turn over.
This made me believe it was a success so I taped it all up nice and neat and tried to go for a ride but no luck.

I have no spark! I have now made all the connections visible and am trying to find the culprit. The beast was running perfect before I started paying with it so I don't suspect any faulty parts but I am lost. I have pulled the black and white wire that goes to the cdi which is suppose to rule out a kill switch fault but still no spark. If anyone could give me a dummies guide for finding the problem I would greatly appreciate it.

Weldangrind · 07-21-2014, 01:47 AM

Have you pressed the kill switch in? You must make sure it has been pushed in once before it will start. If it hasn't been pushed in, it'll crank until the battery is dead with no spark.

TYE · 07-21-2014, 07:49 AM

The kill switch on the handlebar has been removed. It was causing problems in the past. I am not getting 12v to the cdi or the stator. I am getting it to the voltage regulator. Is there a way to check if I'm properly grounded?

I read online that if you remove the black and white wire on the harness side of the cdi and still don't get spark it's not a kill switch problem?

Weldangrind · 07-21-2014, 10:55 AM

Not sure of the colour off the top of my head. When you activate a kill switch, you're connecting one of the CDI wires to ground. When you turn on the ignition switch, you're switching on battery power and switching off ground at the same time.

TYE · 07-22-2014, 06:58 AM

I got it. The new harness was wired differently at the switch. I also had a poor connection at the stator. I still don't understand the order in which ignition occurs but I'm very familiar with my volt meter and the harness now.

Weldangrind · 07-22-2014, 10:40 AM

Did it start?

TYE · 07-22-2014, 09:46 PM

Yes, it's all good now. That will be my last unneeded electrical project

Weldangrind · 07-22-2014, 09:50 PM

Congrats! Any rides planned in the near future?

TYE · 07-23-2014, 05:04 PM

I'm on holidays next week so I'll be in cottage country ripping around on the trails up there. I'm also lucky enough to have some decent trails behind my house.

07-16-2014, 07:07 PM	#17
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	jump start Hello... you should not use your car battery..... your atv battery.. on the beast is maybe a 200 amp.... on the small 110cc they are 50 -75 amp...... you will use your car... 500 - 700 amp battery and hook it up to a smaller battery.... you can blow up your battery..... I know there are some EXPERTS out there who say I have done this many times... one of these times it does not work and bang... there goes your smaller battery... take the battery out and have it tested... there are many free testing stations.. __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

07-17-2014, 12:59 AM	#18
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I'm not an expert, but I would not hesitate to boost my quad with a car battery, as long as the car engine is off. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

07-17-2014, 11:16 PM	#19
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	boosting If you have to do that ... that is the better way.... I have had several customers boost with their car... it was running as that does not help... and they blew the battery up... lucky they did not get any acid in their face... it blew the top and the acid out of the battery... as you say... if you had to boost with your car... do not have it running.. __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

07-19-2014, 05:35 PM	#21
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	starter did you try jumping the solenoid???? this will provide 12 volts tot he starter directly... and if it starts good... then you know it is either the solenoid or the start switch... which tells the solenoid to work... check it out as you are waiting for your parts... and this will tell you what to change and then store the other part..... as you could change both starter & solenoid and find out it is the starter switch.... all that work and cost for the wrong part... __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

07-20-2014, 02:01 PM	#22
TYE Join Date: May 2010 Location: waterdown Posts: 90	Well I've been waiting a while to get the proper harness for my wiring fix and it's finally here. It went on quite easily. There are a few extra connectors that I don't have spots for but the rest went well until I tried to start it up. When I had made all the connections I hit the start button and the engine tried to turn over. This made me believe it was a success so I taped it all up nice and neat and tried to go for a ride but no luck. I have no spark! I have now made all the connections visible and am trying to find the culprit. The beast was running perfect before I started paying with it so I don't suspect any faulty parts but I am lost. I have pulled the black and white wire that goes to the cdi which is suppose to rule out a kill switch fault but still no spark. If anyone could give me a dummies guide for finding the problem I would greatly appreciate it. __________________ modsz30 carb, 110 main,22.5 pilot,ngk race coil wire and plug dr8es-l, no rev cdi, monster muffler
	0

07-15-2014, 08:59 PM	#16
Rhino_343 Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 9	Ok maybe I will try jump starting from my car to definitely rule out the battery then. Thanks W&G
	0

07-19-2014, 10:28 AM	#20
Rhino_343 Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 9	I ended up swapping out the battery from my DR650 which I new was reading a full charge and it still didn't make any difference... Thanks for the suggestions. I have ordered a new starter motor and new solenoid, hopefully that will sort it!
	0

07-21-2014, 01:47 AM	#23
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Have you pressed the kill switch in? You must make sure it has been pushed in once before it will start. If it hasn't been pushed in, it'll crank until the battery is dead with no spark. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

07-21-2014, 07:49 AM	#24
TYE Join Date: May 2010 Location: waterdown Posts: 90	The kill switch on the handlebar has been removed. It was causing problems in the past. I am not getting 12v to the cdi or the stator. I am getting it to the voltage regulator. Is there a way to check if I'm properly grounded? I read online that if you remove the black and white wire on the harness side of the cdi and still don't get spark it's not a kill switch problem? __________________ modsz30 carb, 110 main,22.5 pilot,ngk race coil wire and plug dr8es-l, no rev cdi, monster muffler
	0

07-21-2014, 10:55 AM	#25
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Not sure of the colour off the top of my head. When you activate a kill switch, you're connecting one of the CDI wires to ground. When you turn on the ignition switch, you're switching on battery power and switching off ground at the same time. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

07-22-2014, 06:58 AM	#26
TYE Join Date: May 2010 Location: waterdown Posts: 90	I got it. The new harness was wired differently at the switch. I also had a poor connection at the stator. I still don't understand the order in which ignition occurs but I'm very familiar with my volt meter and the harness now. __________________ modsz30 carb, 110 main,22.5 pilot,ngk race coil wire and plug dr8es-l, no rev cdi, monster muffler
	0

07-22-2014, 10:40 AM	#27
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Did it start? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

07-22-2014, 09:46 PM	#28
TYE Join Date: May 2010 Location: waterdown Posts: 90	Yes, it's all good now. That will be my last unneeded electrical project __________________ modsz30 carb, 110 main,22.5 pilot,ngk race coil wire and plug dr8es-l, no rev cdi, monster muffler
	0

07-22-2014, 09:50 PM	#29
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Congrats! Any rides planned in the near future? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

07-23-2014, 05:04 PM	#30
TYE Join Date: May 2010 Location: waterdown Posts: 90	I'm on holidays next week so I'll be in cottage country ripping around on the trails up there. I'm also lucky enough to have some decent trails behind my house. __________________ modsz30 carb, 110 main,22.5 pilot,ngk race coil wire and plug dr8es-l, no rev cdi, monster muffler
	0