Rpoc

[Sport Rider]

Oh, I get it. it's not that I CAN'T do maintenance items (and more). I do everything on my other bikes myself too. Difference is probably that the metalurgy and overall design is better quality than the old ural approach. the CB has far less moving parts to go wrong, so it's not so bad. I'm really torn about them though. as you mention, yours is about lack of attention.

given a good bike, how much time do you estimate spending to do the routine things to keep it in good order?

[cheesy]

The first time you do anything it takes longer.

Figure an hour for a COMPLETE oil change. That's engine, oil filter, tranny, and rear end. A good part of that hour is changing the oil filter if it's a cartridge like I have. That crossover exhaust pipe below the filter housing can get a little burny at times. Add a bit more time if you used an EMGO filter instead of the Russian filter. Maybe a half hour just to do the engine.

Engine oil is every 1500 miles, trans is 3000 miles, final drive is every 6000 miles.

Valve adjustment is every 6000 miles, too. Figure an hour because the heads should be retorqued, too, and the bolts on the sidecar side are a bit hard to access. I just cut down a socket. Good thing is that the valve cover gaskets can be reused several times.

Once a year for wheel bearings and they're pretty easy, just messy. Shocks are rebuildable and usually just need a top up on oil. It's just that there are five of them.

Just figure on a major service every 6000 miles for a carbed Ural and maybe 3 hours if you aren't in a hurry. Can't answer for the fuelie bikes.

By comparison, major service on my CX takes just about as long because nothing is easily accessed.

[Sport Rider]

quite a bit of attention those old gals require. How about the wear items? brakes, rotors, bearings, etc, etc?

[cheesy]

The Russian brake shoes are beefy, with a capital B. The lining is around 12mm thick. I don't know if I'll ever need to replace them. Getting the shoes initially dialed in is what takes time. A lot of different adjustments required. Once set, it's just turning a nut just like a drum brake bike.

Front brake is a four piston Brembo and very powerful. Stops a half ton quite well and I imagine wear on the pads and rotor is dependent on rear brake adjustment. The newer bikes have disks on all three corners and are a different animal.

Bearings are a crapshoot. When it does come time to replace one, go with something like FAG, SKF, Nichi, or Timkin. Same with seals.

U-joints are dependent on lubrication. I just replaced the original Russian ones in the sidecar axle that had no zerks. I replaced them with zerked Moog joints that should outlast me. The propshaft joint is Ural specific and now comes with a grease zerk. There is no room to use a standard grease gun, though, if the zerk is in the cross, so you need to use a needle. The newest ones have a zerk on one of the cups.

The clutch would depend on how well it's adjusted and rider skill. It's a dry double disk and big.

The last thing I can think of is the 'donut' between the tranny and the propshaft. It's a big hunk o' hard rubber with a metal band around it that acts as the front u-joint. Also Ural specific and it's longevity depends on how well the final drive and propshaft are aligned.

[Weldangrind]

Does the doughnut resemble a rag joint?

[Sport Rider]

sounds like you have already become quite an expert with urals!

I'm not pulling the trigger any time soon. I spent too much last year on toys, so need to curtail my spending this year. I've got a few small updates to do on my current sidecar to beef up the swingarm and perhaps go with leading links on the bike. other than that, I'm going to try to just enjoy them this year!

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Does the doughnut resemble a rag joint?

#2 in the pic, weld.

http://live.uralcatalog.com/details/852

[cheesy]

Swapping out the u-joints took care of the noise I was getting. Now, I just have the howl of the knobbies. Same noise I had with the sadly missed Hi-bird.

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by Sport Rider

sounds like you have already become quite an expert with urals!

I'm weird that way. I try to learn as much as possible about my toys.

[cheesy]

Something new was added today.


Farm & Fleet had a three pack of ammo boxes and I sprung. One Fat .50 cal, a .50 cal, and a .40 cal all nested together like Russian dolls. (sorry)

I went with the .50 cal as it didn't hang quite as low as the axle. Mounted with four 1/4" x 1" carriage bolts. A good place to put the tool roll a spare tubes.

The USFS chevron was just a goody I had laying around.


Now to figure out what to do with the other two boxes.

[Sport Rider]

nice add!

[zingshoen]

great thread, cheesy, great read! how could a camo gear up not suit?

[cheesy]

I sprang for a pair of handle bar mitts a couple of weeks ago. Why, oh why haven't I done this before?

My first impression wasn't too great because my first inclination was to ride with my Aussie winter gloves on. Not a smart move on my part, no room.

Second try was with a pair of thin wool liners. Much better.

Today, it was well diggers butt cold and I grabbed my rifle mittens by mistake. I realized that as I was leaving and just threw them in the sidecar, then turned on the heated grips and rode bare handed. Wow! Toasty warm and able to work everything without a hitch.

Mine are Badass Sharks, which are exactly the same as Audew and several others. Less than twenty bucks with Amazon Prime.

[Sport Rider]

hey...I got some news on my end. I picked up a set of leading links from a GL1200 goldwing. they were in pretty "used" shape, but servicable. I'll tear them apart and clean them up and perhaps some further paint.

so...after fiddling, I discovered they are the exact dimensions of my Concours 1000. Now I'm thinking that the C10 may become my tug and get a sidecar for that instead of using the Nomad. First step will be to get parts to build the rest of the front end out of a GL. just need wheel, rotors and brakes.

once I have the set, I can do some test fitting to the C10 and decide how to proceed next. I know I need a sub-frame for the C10 since the motor is a stressed member. others have done it though, so I know it's possible. with a dual sport or maybe a car tire on the rear, and a reverse rear on the front, it should make a good setup.

yet another project begins..

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by Sport Rider

hey...I got some news on my end. I picked up a set of leading links from a GL1200 goldwing. they were in pretty "used" shape, but servicable. I'll tear them apart and clean them up and perhaps some further paint.

so...after fiddling, I discovered they are the exact dimensions of my Concours 1000. Now I'm thinking that the C10 may become my tug and get a sidecar for that instead of using the Nomad. First step will be to get parts to build the rest of the front end out of a GL. just need wheel, rotors and brakes.

once I have the set, I can do some test fitting to the C10 and decide how to proceed next. I know I need a sub-frame for the C10 since the motor is a stressed member. others have done it though, so I know it's possible. with a dual sport or maybe a car tire on the rear, and a reverse rear on the front, it should make a good setup.

yet another project begins..

Keep us informed. I'd like to see the set up.