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Old 07-17-2016, 05:35 PM   #1
w0ss   w0ss is offline
 
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Thermal images of Hawk engine

Took these for fun after a ride today. Anyone know what the normal temp should be? Ambient is about 90 today.


Left side oil screen bolt area


Left side Stator.


Left side head


Right side head + exhaust
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Hawk 250 with following performance mods: 17t, Mikuni with 110/25, Uni filter, Exhaust.



Last edited by w0ss; 07-18-2016 at 09:42 AM. Reason: Still learning left from right; Stator != Transmission.
 
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Old 07-17-2016, 07:46 PM   #2
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Originally Posted by w0ss View Post
Took these for fun after a ride today. Anyone know what the normal temp should be? Ambient is about 90 today.


Left side oil screen bolt area


Left side transmission


Left side head


Right side head + exhaust
Seems hot to me. I hope you are running synthetic 20-50 oil.


 
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Old 07-17-2016, 08:30 PM   #3
w0ss   w0ss is offline
 
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I am running synthetic 20w-50. I assume there isn't anything you can do about engine temps on an air cooled engine. Assuming it isn't caked in mud.
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:05 PM   #4
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And people are arguing the need for an oil cooler? I didn't have a Fleer but my laser heat gun recorded similar temps.....


 
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:38 PM   #5
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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But don't forget, your standing still. Set up a ventilator fan for a representation of true operating Temps.

Cool demo, thanks
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Old 07-18-2016, 12:48 AM   #6
w0ss   w0ss is offline
 
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The engine was off, I pulled into my driveway and shut it down and took the pictures within a minute of shutting it off. I am sure even in the minute affected the temp but good enough for me.
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Old 07-18-2016, 02:59 PM   #7
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Originally Posted by w0ss View Post
I am running synthetic 20w-50. I assume there isn't anything you can do about engine temps on an air cooled engine. Assuming it isn't caked in mud.
Traditionally, when an engines oil ran too hot we put in a bigger oil tank, one of the good features of dry sump engines. But this engine is wet sump, and only has about a 1 1/4 quart oil capacity. That is barely enough oil capacity to get the job done. So the only solution that comes to mind is synthetic oil, which does not break down as easily at high temperatures.


 
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Old 07-18-2016, 03:40 PM   #8
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter View Post
So the only solution that comes to mind is synthetic oil
But only after the '500 mile break in procedure' right

Now everyone knows (one of the reasons) why one of the first things I did before starting the engine for the first time... was to put synthetic oil in that (non oil cooler just) Air Cooled Engine/Wet Clutch Transmission design
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:00 PM   #9
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On my
Y rocket a db07a I routinely register 300+°F on my commutes and have never had issues... on a 90° day sitting at a stoplight will yield around a 365° head temp, measured right near the exhaust where my temp probe for my trail tech vector dash is. On my ke100 I have seen just shy of 400° at the plug...so I would say you aren't riding as hard as me....LOL then again extended periods of 60mph and wide open throttle to keep up with traffic flow is tough on a bike... I use a 1000 MI oil change interval on it though so I don't worry too much...


 
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:02 PM   #10
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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Oh and I run John deere 15w40 conventional torq-gard oil... I get it dirt cheap fro, the JD dealer that I turn wrenches for... as in free when there's oil left over from a quart...


 
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:13 PM   #11
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365 degrees, no vapors are going to be hanging around in that crankcase like you say, these little motors are incredible
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:17 PM   #12
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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Haha yep... I commute with my bike 30 MI each way on any day that's above 40 and low to no chance of rain..... got 2k on the bike this year already....


 
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:33 PM   #13
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Azhule View Post
But only after the '500 mile break in procedure' right

Now everyone knows (one of the reasons) why one of the first things I did before starting the engine for the first time... was to put synthetic oil in that (non oil cooler just) Air Cooled Engine/Wet Clutch Transmission design
Break in allows parts to bed in to each other. That is why I reccomend a 500 mile break in. You certainly don't have to do it that way, if you don't want to. Engines are more precision machined now than they used to be. That's why we don't have to follow old break in procedures any more. No more 100 miles at 30 mph, 200 at no more than 40 etc etc. And there is no such thing as a totally air cooled engine. They are about 60% air cooled and 40% oil cooled. The first 500 or so miles lets the parts get about as slick as they are going to get, so after that point, they don't run as hot. I don't like oil coolers on off-road bikes. Or radiators of any kind. They add weight up high, and are apt to be damaged in a fall.


 
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:42 PM   #14
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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I think we both know I was talking about one of these for the 'oil cooler'

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=16941



So like I said "non oil cooler, just air cooled engine"
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