Chain and sprocket replacement

[AZRider]

In case you weren't able to attend CSC's chain maintenance tutorial or view their video, Motorcyclist Magazine has posted an online video on replacing your chain and sprockets with some useful tips. It will also give you a chance to invite your neighbor over for a beer in return for his help with the wrenching.


http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/mc...clist-magazine

[detours]

Thanks for the link! I wish I could have watched CSC's video, but this will help a lot.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the good link on an important topic, George. Here is the video.

[SpudRider]

The MC Garage video says you should rivet your chain, but I much prefer drive chains with a master link clip. A master link clip is much easier to install, and I have never had a failure of a master link clip. Also, it is much easier to remove an old chain with a master link clip. Otherwise, you need to grind one of the pins, and push the pin out of the chain with a chain breaker tool.

[rtking]

If you download periscope and looke for CSC Motorcycles, the presentation Joe made will be available for another 14 hours or so, I think. (I think Periscope keeps presentations for 24 hour period, but not totally sure as this is my first time using Periscope.)

[AZRider]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

The MC Garage video says you should rivet your chain, but I much prefer drive chains with a master link clip. A master link clip is much easier to install, and I have never had a failure of a master link clip. Also, it is much easier to remove an old chain with a master link clip. Otherwise, you need to grind one of the pins, and push the pin out of the chain with a chain breaker tool.

Spud, I'm sure that you're safe to do so with a 250, but with more powerful bikes, i believe that a riveted link is essential.

[roots]

Since we are sortof on the topic. I watched the CSC live feed this morning and noticed the chain slack that Gerry allowed looked much more than what I did "following" specs. Basically, I think I set my chain to tight. I can get the appropriate movement up and down but with effort. Gerry's chain looked more like the chain freely moved up and down within spec. Does that make sense? So, do others push and pull (with all your might) the chain to check or gently move the chain up and down?

[ElkSlayer]

Just watched the periscope video.... For me, it started with the new chain already on the bike? Did not see any disassembly...is that the way it originally was viewed?

Jim

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by AZRider

Spud, I'm sure that you're safe to do so with a 250, but with more powerful bikes, i believe that a riveted link is essential.

If you are racing a sport bike at high speeds, you probably should use a riveted link. However, I use a master link with a clip on my Honda XR650L, and I have ridden it over 90 mph without any problems whatsoever. At sea level the XR650L will reach a top speed well over 100 mph, and many, if not most owners, use a drive chain with a master link clip. We certainly won't have any problems running a master link with a clip on our Zongshen RX3 motorcycles. However, if someone prefers a riveted link, I think he should use a riveted link.

There is not a lot of lateral force on the clip. Therefore, if the clip is installed properly, it never causes a problem. If someone installs the clip improperly, that is a different matter. However, even if done poorly, a rivet is highly unlikely to fail, so it is definitely more fool proof.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by roots

Since we are sortof on the topic. I watched the CSC live feed this morning and noticed the chain slack that Gerry allowed looked much more than what I did "following" specs. Basically, I think I set my chain to tight. I can get the appropriate movement up and down but with effort. Gerry's chain looked more like the chain freely moved up and down within spec. Does that make sense? So, do others push and pull (with all your might) the chain to check or gently move the chain up and down?

You should not have to "push and pull (with all your might)."

[roots]

Originally Posted by ElkSlayer

Just watched the periscope video.... For me, it started with the new chain already on the bike? Did not see any disassembly...is that the way it originally was viewed?

Jim

Nope, the live show started with a couple sales pitches before talking about tools and replacement sprockets and such. Then the sparks flew!

That's a bummer you can't see the whole thing, I guess you just had to be there

[roots]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

You should not have to "push and pull (with all your might)."

Alright, thanks Spud. But what if my might is much less than yours! So, use a quarter Spud might, slight might, or just the right might?

Anyway, I guess I now know that I need to loosen the tension on my chain.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by roots

Alright, thanks Spud. But what if my might is much less than yours! So, use a quarter Spud might, slight might, or just the right might?

Anyway, I guess I now know that I need to loosen the tension on my chain.

I'm sorry; I wasn't trying to be flippant. The drive chain should move easily, as you saw during the presentation. If it requires a lot of force to check the slack, your drive chain is probably too tight.

[Jay In Milpitas]

I searched through a number of videos before I settled on this one to explain chain slack (not tension) adjustment. Notice he says to check it with your butt on the seat! That's because of the geometry of the swing arm and sprocket arcs.



Hope this helps.