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Old 02-06-2015, 12:46 PM   #16
jimlao92   jimlao92 is offline
 
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yes i do agree the exhaust on this thing is loud, its almost as loud as my brothers ttr225.

can i find ready wheels that will just bolt up or do i have to rewire new rims to my hub?

How does the aluminum wheel hold up when going offroad?

I found this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/yamaha-bansh...6aa19f&vxp=mtr)

my clutch takes a good amount of pressure to press the lever could it be a bad clutch cable or clutch lever?

throttle has dead play before actually working. will that require a new cable?

the old and rusty sprocket and chain will be taken off if i have to chance to do it today. i am looking at buying an o ring chain what size sprockets should i be looking at? i would like the bike to have a good strong low end with a nice mid range top speed isn't really necessary. but one with a usable first gear. I'm guessing 428 size.

Sorry for all the questions =l


 
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:58 PM   #17
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Bring on the questions! We'll answer what we can.

Google a chain measurement chart, and confirm the size you have. My guess is 428. What sprocket sizes do you have now?

The clutch cable (and throttle cable) need to be lubed. I use a cable luber and Maxima Chain Wax on cables. Yes, I use it on chains as well. Good stuff.

The throttle cable needs adjustment. There will be one adjustment at the throttle tube and maybe another at the top of the carb. You might also have one somewhere in the middle of the cable. You need a small amount of freeplay, but the carb must open fully when the throttle tube is wide open.

Those bars are steel and not actually Pro Taper. I'd look for aluminum.

You might find aluminum rims that fit your bike, but I'm not sure where. You might need to lace them yourself. Before making that decision, decide for yourself if the added seat height is a good thing for you.

All of the major manufacturers use aluminum rims. They are not only strong, but they're also more resistant to bending. They flex where steel would typically bend. As well, aluminum is much lighter.
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Old 02-08-2015, 04:26 AM   #18
jimlao92   jimlao92 is offline
 
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found out my problem with the starting. it was because my fuel hose was looped down then up so fuel wouldn't flow correctly, fixed it then bam! started right up but now i have high idle, i backed out the screw for idle all the way out but it still idles high so do i start messing with the mixture screw now? mixture screw is pretty hard to get to.

Also lubed up my clutch cable. i think it must be my actual clutch that is hard because cable was smooth as butter.

Just installed these today (http://www.cyclegear.com/TRACKSIDE-Aluminum-Handguards) makes the bike look way more aggressive I'm loving it more and more.

Now looking forward to getting a rear shock&spring that is adjustable and can hold my weight. (280LBS)

also looking into 21/18 i just hope that my rear can support 18 =l

i will also post number or anything or any numbers i find on the front shocks.

i think the engine code is (163fml) not so sure yet will confirm that number.

Also lubed and clean my chain and re tightened it looks brand new confirmed that chain is in fact a 428 size. what the advantages and disadvantage that come with oring chain over no oring?

Pictures will be updated when i have time.

Need pictures of the bike, i have a camera and tape measure available to me at most times so i can measure and post and specific parts of the bike requested.


 
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Old 02-08-2015, 12:37 PM   #19
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Don't mess with the mixture screw yet. Was the choke on or off? Are you certain that the throttle cable was properly seated into the top of the carb?

Good job on solving the fuel hose issue. I hadn't thought of that.

You might want to change the oil in the forks; that might make all of the difference. Spud's fork tutorial has all the info you'll need: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=10266 You'll need a quart of Valvoline Maxlife ATF.

An o-ring chain will last longer and be less prone to stretch. It will cost more.

Why is the R6 shock a fail?
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:36 AM   #20
jimlao92   jimlao92 is offline
 
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ok got my throttle figured out my cable was crimped somewhere in between the gas tank and the frame, so i just had to reseat the gas tank =D.

Carb is running great no more break up at high revs anymore power comes on linear and wants to keep pulling.

so i am thinking about look for 21/18 instead of changing my sprocket ratios as they are still new.

my front shock are pretty stiff so i think i will look for a cheaper adjustable rear shock that will fit.

the r6 shock is ball joint on both end and my stock shock is ball joint on one end with fork at the other.(i posted both side by side on an earlier picture)

bad news. lowsided my bike today on wet concrete =( but i also figured out that the aluminum hand guards from cycle gear are fairly well made i would recommend them to anyone. they saved my clutch lever and my hands&knuckles just a slight scrap on my forearm. my handlebar also bent fairly bad but nothing a little elbow grease couldn't fix bent it back and is looking straight enough. looking at some pro taper bars from cycle gear.(http://www.cyclegear.com/PRO-TAPER-SE-Handlebars)[/INDENT]
engine is 163fml confirmed.

also changed battery and bike fire up every time at first start.

runnning mobil 1 10w-40 4t racing oil. any recommendation on different oils?

what are the cost of rewiring to 21/18 at a shop vs diy?


 
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:05 AM   #21
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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I'm glad that you weren't seriously hurt during your lowside.

You'll need to ask at local shops about the cost of lacing hubs to rims. You could buy a truing stand and do it yourself for less.

Glad you figured out the throttle cable.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:38 AM   #22
jimlao92   jimlao92 is offline
 
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it was bound to happen. all my gear was on so no harm done.

ok i'll look on youtube for some lacing videos to see if i want to try it myself or would just rather pay.

yea the throttle was the small thing that made a big difference, took a couple mins to find out about that also.

will be taking more pictures of the bike and posting whenever im free.


 
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Old 02-21-2015, 04:24 AM   #23
jimlao92   jimlao92 is offline
 
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Went out last sunday took some pictures! bike ran great. ttr125 ttr230 jetmoto 200 khandi 150. rode the ttr230 at the ohv park and loved how smooth it was on the rocky trail, could it just be the big wheels? 21/18 on the ttr 230 that makes it smoother? looking forward to this sunday also going back out maybe take a crf 150 with us next time and my dads 750i bruteforce.
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:25 AM   #24
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Thanks for the pics!

I'd say yes to your rim question. I had an '81 XL250S that had a 23" front wheel, and it rolled over everything.
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Old 02-23-2015, 02:11 AM   #25
jimlao92   jimlao92 is offline
 
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update went back out today. bruteforce and crf did come out to ride with us today. happy with how my bike is riding so far.

looking at this also
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271617849994...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:25 PM   #26
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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If you buy that shock, please let us know how it works for you.
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Old 03-01-2015, 10:38 PM   #27
jimlao92   jimlao92 is offline
 
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Another Sunday out! had alot of fun this time. even had a crf80 join us this time around. putting the 16ft trailer to good use also had 2 125 chinese atv go out also 1 sport 1 utility. Had problem with both chain slipping off any suggestions?
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Old 03-01-2015, 10:41 PM   #28
jimlao92   jimlao92 is offline
 
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i have decided on not buying the rear shock as i am not sure if it'll fit and i have gotten pretty used to the bike and how it rides. i would love this engine in a bigger frame with 21/18 with all the low end this engine puts out trails are a breeze its just this frame is holding it back.


 
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Old 03-01-2015, 10:45 PM   #29
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimlao92 View Post
Another Sunday out! had alot of fun this time. even had a crf80 join us this time around. putting the 16ft trailer to good use also had 2 125 chinese atv go out also 1 sport 1 utility. Had problem with both chain slipping off any suggestions?
That is a trailer loaded with fun!

The chains can take a little time to sort out. If you put the atv on a jackstand and then remove the rear shock, you can cycle the swingarm up and down. When the front sprocket, swingarm bolt and rear sprocket are in a straight line, the chain should be at its tightest. Not tight, just snug.

From there, the suspension should be able to articulate without the chain popping off. When it does, it has stretched and must be adjusted again.
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