Vitacchi Clash 200

[NeedInfo200]

I noticed the PAS code also. Must be a way to get into the speedo for changing some settings. I'll try a few pass-codes to see if I can get in. Ie. 0000, 1234, etc.



I haven't had the check engine light come on once since installing a 5k ohm pot and setting it to around 1.2k ohms. I'm going to try and alter the setting to see at which point the bike starts miss firing and then will probably turn on the check engine light.



I believe I found out how to adjust the idle on the throttle body. Small brass set screw directly under the air gulp pulse valve. Looks almost like a idle mixture screw on a carb. CW 1/4 turn at a time with a brief wait idle slows down. Something else to play around with. I'd like the idle to be set around 1850 and not 2200rpm...

[Mudflap]

Chinese diesel heaters have an admin code of 1688 so maybe that number has some significance in Chinese culture. May try 168 or 688.

[NeedInfo200]

Any luck with the admin code? I will try messing with it later. Too hot out now 105.



I'm still experimenting with the temp probe resistance. It's been in the 90s here at night so I went on my full throttle run. In testing now I'm lowering the resistance of the pot to see at what point the ecm flags a engine check error.

If I set the pot at 1.2k ohms it runs great but, on a hot restart it acts as if "the choke is on" and stumbles a little. Which makes perfect sense. The ecm is fooled into thing it's a cold start. I lowered the pot to 300 ohms and it seemed to hot start OK. Testing further tonight.

[Mudflap]

Haven't yet fiddled with the codes.


Is a standard thermistor used as a sensor? Any chance of finding a number on it?

[NeedInfo200]

Well in a sense it's a standard thermister. But the range it should have for the ecm is unknown.

The pot i installed is providing a false reading to the ecm in hopes of finding the correct range of operation it seeks.

I'm leaning towards the idea that lifan used a sensor for a liquid cooled engine or that the ecm is programmed for liquid cooled engine operating temps 190-220 and a air cooled engine will run up to 280-290 head temp.

[Mudflap]

If the cylinder head thermistor is for a water cooled engine then maybe it could be fooled by insulating it slightly from the head. Something like mounting it on a piece of aluminum bar stock that is bolted to the head?

[NeedInfo200]

Looks like your on the same page as I am with this.



That's why I installed the pot in place of the thermister so I can see what parameters the ecm is looking for in both cold and hot running scenarios. Once I figure that out I'll install a fixed resister in it's place maybe 2 on a switch for cold and hot. Unless someone can find out about loading new parameters for the ecm with proper cables and Lifan interface app. I'm not a repair service so I don't want to buy hundreds of dollars worth of adapters etc. I just work on my own stuff. I'm very capable mechanically and electrically.


What is the type of ecm on your Vitacchi 200? Mine looks like a chinese generic brand but, obviously tuned for Lifan 161QMK. Do you have a working set up for viewing the ecm parameters? If so let me know what adapter and cables work with either a smartphone or PC running windows 10.

[Mudflap]

I haven't even removed the engine cover to have a look at what's underneath but I'll get around to it someday soon. The fuel mixture does seem a bit lean at mid throttle when warmed up. I'm an experienced old school motorcycle mechanic but this is the first EFI small engine I've dealt with. As more Chinese scooters are equipped with EFI there will surely be a knowledge database developed.

[NeedInfo200]

I agree with you about it running lean. But by fooling the temp sensor it seems to have full range pep. The missing has gone away and the hot start has been cured by lowering the the potentiometer to around 300 Ohms. Maybe a happy medium between hot and cold starting. Wish I had the parameters of the ecm?



The idle is much better 1850rpm (slower) than it was originally at 2200 rpm. I turned the "air gulp" screw on the throttle body CW about 1/2 turn.


The only other 2 things I have done are to replace the cheapo cvt belt with a Bando kevlar cvt belt and replaced the roller weights with dr pulley 14g slider weights lubed with dry graphite. Made a big improvement on acceleration and cruising.

[Mudflap]

If it runs good at 300 ohms in place of the thermistor, how about putting a 300 ohm resistor in series with the thermistor? That should tell the computer the head temp is cooler but still have a range rather than being a fixed value.

[NeedInfo200]

I'm going to run it at 300 ohms for some time. I'll check hot and cold starts so I'm going to leave the pot in there for now. If a 100 or 500 ohm precision 1% resister in series with the thermister is the ticket Great! Rode it today and it started fine 100 degrees outside.

[Mudflap]

Speedo test with GPS:


40 indicated = 35 actual

45 indicated = 40 actual

51 indicated = 45 actual

56 indicated = 50 actual

62 indicated = 55 actual

[NeedInfo200]

I noticed my speedo is off by about +4 or +5 mph after 40 mph. I haven't checked the odometer accuracy yet with my phone and GPS. I suspect it is off also.

They sure don't do much setup on these before they crate them up. I wonder if it's clone brother the Honda Click 150i has the same issues?



Maybe someone has a Honda Click 150i service manual for finding out how to get into the speedo calibration menu? The Honda appears to have the same speedo cluster with a couple more features turned on.

[Mudflap]

Checked the valve lash this morning and they were correct, a snug .004 intake and .005 exhaust. Access to the exhaust gap is a little tight but otherwise very easy. I noticed that it does have one of those compression release doodads.



The spark plug is a ZY brand CR7H9A and the color was good. I'll put in an NGK plug but there is probably nothing wrong with the stock one.


Dug through my resistor box and found a few 1/4 watt resistors from 33 ohm to 300 ohm to try in series with the cylinder head thermistor. I'll cut the wire and use wago snap connectors to test.

[Mudflap]

Numbers on the thermistor are 21-05A and M8*10-A 21 06. Resistance at 70° F is 2135 ohms.