125cc won’t fire - Page 5

Nicthegreat420 · 10-13-2020, 06:23 PM

So on the original engine the valves are to spec.
Will be checking the valves on the new motor when I get home.

New motor-which has been left out in the rain for one night-
–if it isn’t a bent valve or a stuck open or closed valve, and the timing is perfect spot on, which it is—
–the ground wires are good, so no short circuits.
–there is spark
It should cough with a trickle of fuel into intake directly...?
I’ve only connected the wires needed to run the engine n idle it. No lights or anything extra

Nicthegreat420 · 10-13-2020, 10:26 PM

Hopefully this is able to be cleaned up
And NOT replaced? Or I can replace or swap from old motor if need be ?

Valves are at .05

Nicthegreat420 · 11-01-2020, 11:16 PM

Piston and rings set and gaskets are in the mail.

Nicthegreat420 · 11-10-2020, 03:53 PM

Piston came without c clips and with only 3 waffle rings... not even a wrist pin! Wtf..

Clear as day it showed over 15 parts.
Refunding ASAP and going thru amazon prime instead
2x$13.00

Nicthegreat420 · 11-22-2020, 06:21 PM

Got new piston with all correct rings. One ring says R while other says RN. Where do they go. I have seen other posts n videos via YouTube they don’t explain for tao tao and I won’t risk making a mistake to blow another piston or rings.

What are the proper displacement for these rings? 120 degrees or 180?

Nicthegreat420 · 11-22-2020, 10:09 PM

This right ? Gotta make sure the pic loads

Nicthegreat420 · 01-25-2021, 09:01 PM

If thi is correct the bike Would pop with raw fuel down the carburetor

Nicthegreat420 · 03-31-2021, 03:35 PM

So I come back to the motor and go over the valves find out if they are yet again still on spec on both engines so we know the valves are not the issue at least the clearance is not the issue we don’t know if the valve exhaust is burnt and the only way to find out is to remove both valves

Again valve clearance is not the issue spent the last year of Covid dealing with everybody telling me it’s the valve clearance —it’s not

Took the head off realized it might need a rebuild I’ve gone over the wiring on the bike and removed every single wiring component stripped it from the wiring lube and completely re-wired a brand new individual wiring unit from every single component going to an individual ground from every single component so there will be no way in hell that the wiring is incorrect no fucking way in hell

There are three engine wires from the stater they are hooked up correctly

The two wires from the 12 V stater powering the light in the LED housing for the headlight is not connected Because it’s not needed to turn the engine over

From the spark plug wire all the way to the capacitor all the way to the CDI all the way to the battery every single wire is brand new I ran over every single wire with wire tracer to check for continuity so I know every single wire on my bike has not a single break crack or fracture in the line so I know in the bike there’s not a single short at all. I’ve taken a Bike to a shop to verify that all the grounds are fine they are fine are fine

Ignition switch is perfectly fine

Fuel lines are perfectly fine

Spark plug wires brand new and properly gapped

The carburetor is not even on the motor right now so I won’t need to pull the throttle or any other extras

So with all of this being said the motor is bolted into a bear frame with only the wiring needed to go from the battery to the starter to the stater to the spark plugs to complete the circuit

The bike will not turn over with starting fluid, with carb cleaner, or with pure 91

The bike has an electronic Killswitch which has been bypassed

Currently replacing the piston assembly on the motor that has 1000 miles on it— As it’s the same motor that came on the bike when I bought it

The original issue with this bike was a driving down the street come to a stoplight and the engine dies before I have a chance to pull my clutch in to put the bike in neutral
— Ever since then the original motor has not ran nor has it turned over—

Timing on both motors is perfect
it’s set perfect at the camshaft
it’s at perfect at the cam shaft sprocket
it’s at perfect at the stator
it’s at perfect at the timing marks lining up on the stater housing

When the bike is turned over it makes a chain grinding noise and the only change that I know of that’s inside the bike engine is the one that comes from the starter and the one that comes from the camshaft sprocket

To my knowledge there is a adjuster for this chain But I cannot find it

Nicthegreat420 · 03-31-2021, 03:40 PM

Again I’m needing some advice to get my bike running or I’m going to sell it to the junkyard

franque · 03-31-2021, 04:12 PM

Are you getting spark? When you say it's not turning over, are you saying it's not physically turning over, or it isn't firing? What does compression look like, and leakdown? How is the coil ground, and is the plug cap a resistor cap with a resistor plug?

Nicthegreat420 · 08-27-2021, 09:41 PM

I’ll try n post a video

Nicthegreat420 · 08-27-2021, 10:15 PM

Here I hope

AussieMatt · 11-08-2021, 09:52 PM

Hey mate,

Have had a read through this thread I've been building Chinese E22 motors for over 10 years now

When you set your valve clearances was the motor at TDC when you did them ??

If it was TDC and both at 0.05 take the carb off from the manifold and cover your hand over manifold openining hit the e-start button and see what the vacuum pressure is like on it ? Weak or strong

If its weak then id try these settings go 0.03 for intake and 0.04 for exhaust while at TDC
every chinese E22 motor I've ever built in australia has been set 0.03 & 0.04 with no issues ever just make sure your valves are seated closed after setting so is best to do with head off

If all of that dosent work I'd be checking your stator output with a multi meter from the green & red/Black to see if it's within range, this is your main stator coil

Then green & blue/white to see what this is outputting and if it is acceptable range, this is your timing trigger for your spark

also what's the gap between the timing trigger point on sensor & flywheel also set at ?

Cheers

10-13-2020, 06:23 PM	#61
Nicthegreat420 Join Date: Oct 2019 Posts: 69	So on the original engine the valves are to spec. Will be checking the valves on the new motor when I get home. New motor-which has been left out in the rain for one night- –if it isn’t a bent valve or a stuck open or closed valve, and the timing is perfect spot on, which it is— –the ground wires are good, so no short circuits. –there is spark It should cough with a trickle of fuel into intake directly...? I’ve only connected the wires needed to run the engine n idle it. No lights or anything extra
	0

11-01-2020, 11:16 PM	#63
Nicthegreat420 Join Date: Oct 2019 Posts: 69	Piston and rings set and gaskets are in the mail.
	1

11-10-2020, 03:53 PM	#64
Nicthegreat420 Join Date: Oct 2019 Posts: 69	Piston came without c clips and with only 3 waffle rings... not even a wrist pin! Wtf.. Clear as day it showed over 15 parts. Refunding ASAP and going thru amazon prime instead 2x$13.00
	1

11-22-2020, 06:21 PM	#65
Nicthegreat420 Join Date: Oct 2019 Posts: 69	Got new piston with all correct rings. One ring says R while other says RN. Where do they go. I have seen other posts n videos via YouTube they don’t explain for tao tao and I won’t risk making a mistake to blow another piston or rings. What are the proper displacement for these rings? 120 degrees or 180?
	0

01-25-2021, 09:01 PM	#67
Nicthegreat420 Join Date: Oct 2019 Posts: 69	If thi is correct the bike Would pop with raw fuel down the carburetor
	0

03-31-2021, 03:35 PM	#68
Nicthegreat420 Join Date: Oct 2019 Posts: 69	So I come back to the motor and go over the valves find out if they are yet again still on spec on both engines so we know the valves are not the issue at least the clearance is not the issue we don’t know if the valve exhaust is burnt and the only way to find out is to remove both valves Again valve clearance is not the issue spent the last year of Covid dealing with everybody telling me it’s the valve clearance —it’s not Took the head off realized it might need a rebuild I’ve gone over the wiring on the bike and removed every single wiring component stripped it from the wiring lube and completely re-wired a brand new individual wiring unit from every single component going to an individual ground from every single component so there will be no way in hell that the wiring is incorrect no fucking way in hell There are three engine wires from the stater they are hooked up correctly The two wires from the 12 V stater powering the light in the LED housing for the headlight is not connected Because it’s not needed to turn the engine over From the spark plug wire all the way to the capacitor all the way to the CDI all the way to the battery every single wire is brand new I ran over every single wire with wire tracer to check for continuity so I know every single wire on my bike has not a single break crack or fracture in the line so I know in the bike there’s not a single short at all. I’ve taken a Bike to a shop to verify that all the grounds are fine they are fine are fine Ignition switch is perfectly fine Fuel lines are perfectly fine Spark plug wires brand new and properly gapped The carburetor is not even on the motor right now so I won’t need to pull the throttle or any other extras So with all of this being said the motor is bolted into a bear frame with only the wiring needed to go from the battery to the starter to the stater to the spark plugs to complete the circuit The bike will not turn over with starting fluid, with carb cleaner, or with pure 91 The bike has an electronic Killswitch which has been bypassed Currently replacing the piston assembly on the motor that has 1000 miles on it— As it’s the same motor that came on the bike when I bought it The original issue with this bike was a driving down the street come to a stoplight and the engine dies before I have a chance to pull my clutch in to put the bike in neutral — Ever since then the original motor has not ran nor has it turned over— Timing on both motors is perfect it’s set perfect at the camshaft it’s at perfect at the cam shaft sprocket it’s at perfect at the stator it’s at perfect at the timing marks lining up on the stater housing When the bike is turned over it makes a chain grinding noise and the only change that I know of that’s inside the bike engine is the one that comes from the starter and the one that comes from the camshaft sprocket To my knowledge there is a adjuster for this chain But I cannot find it
	0

03-31-2021, 03:40 PM	#69
Nicthegreat420 Join Date: Oct 2019 Posts: 69	Again I’m needing some advice to get my bike running or I’m going to sell it to the junkyard
	0

03-31-2021, 04:12 PM	#70
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	Are you getting spark? When you say it's not turning over, are you saying it's not physically turning over, or it isn't firing? What does compression look like, and leakdown? How is the coil ground, and is the plug cap a resistor cap with a resistor plug?
	0

08-27-2021, 09:41 PM	#71
Nicthegreat420 Join Date: Oct 2019 Posts: 69	I’ll try n post a video
	0

08-27-2021, 10:15 PM	#72
Nicthegreat420 Join Date: Oct 2019 Posts: 69	Here I hope
	0

11-08-2021, 09:52 PM	#73
AussieMatt Join Date: Nov 2021 Location: Australia Posts: 1	Hey mate, Have had a read through this thread I've been building Chinese E22 motors for over 10 years now When you set your valve clearances was the motor at TDC when you did them ?? If it was TDC and both at 0.05 take the carb off from the manifold and cover your hand over manifold openining hit the e-start button and see what the vacuum pressure is like on it ? Weak or strong If its weak then id try these settings go 0.03 for intake and 0.04 for exhaust while at TDC every chinese E22 motor I've ever built in australia has been set 0.03 & 0.04 with no issues ever just make sure your valves are seated closed after setting so is best to do with head off If all of that dosent work I'd be checking your stator output with a multi meter from the green & red/Black to see if it's within range, this is your main stator coil Then green & blue/white to see what this is outputting and if it is acceptable range, this is your timing trigger for your spark also what's the gap between the timing trigger point on sensor & flywheel also set at ? Cheers
	0