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Old 03-07-2008, 12:59 PM   #16
culcune   culcune is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zapkin
culcune two things disturb me. 1. you let a tranny ride your bike and 2. the tranny took a dump on it.

don't give up on the bike just because some tranny took a dump on it. wipe it off, take a long hot shower, and move on with life.

LOL sry
It did look like a woman...
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Old 03-07-2008, 01:08 PM   #17
bronevaya   bronevaya is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zapkin
well I took it to Wheeling Cycle and they checked it out. The chain was WAAAAYYY too lose and the clutch was way too tight. After adjusting the chain and clutch, the shudder on takeoff is pretty much gone. It seems the vibrations I am getting while riding is due to my rims not being true. Since I have no clue how to adjust them, I will now search this forum for info on it.

i feel like a total idiot now.
when you say they tightened the clutch, do you mean the cable?


 
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Old 03-07-2008, 02:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zapkin
BUT I definitely plan on changing out the engine bolts to more durable ones that will better fit the holes. If anyone has a counterbalanced motor and has done that mod, I sure could use some info on what bolts to purchase.

thanks..
I don't know if anyone with the counter balanced engine has had issues with the mounting bolts? I only know of it being an issue with the older ones that weren't balanced, I think they've reworked the mounts for the balanced engine?
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Old 03-07-2008, 04:08 PM   #19
TeamCheap   TeamCheap is offline
 
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I tend to agree with JIM.
From what I have seen on the new counter balanced models is they also reworked the rear-upper engine mount to the way it should have been from the get-go so I'm only assuming they fixed the lousy engine to frame fit they had in the earlier bikes and put in the PROPER size bolts.

Still the engine mount is such a critical thing that I'd be eyeing up a new model bike engine mount just to make sure it was right.


 
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Old 03-07-2008, 04:09 PM   #20
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there was no play in the clutch cable. they corrected that and tightened chain and the shudder seems to be gone. There are less vibes now. But i have some issues with my rims being a bit off. I am not sure how to correct that problem easily. If anyone knows of a thread on here or somewhere else that can instruct me how to work on rims please let me know.

thnks


 
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Old 03-07-2008, 04:36 PM   #21
MATT   MATT is offline
 
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I had a counterbalanced engine in my gy5 apparently it was a supposed grey market from Lifan wholesalers. And the tranny did take a dump at 1600km. The good news is that they agreed to replace it (I'll believe it when i see it) I did replace the engine with a ohc motor I got on ebay and it doesn't seem to vibrate anymore than the counterbalanced motor did. My problem now is my crude attempts to make a bracket for the front mount. Oh fyi I never had a single bolt rattle loose and I only did minor locktiting of the bike. Maybe I should have pour some locktite in the transmission.


 
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Old 03-07-2008, 05:01 PM   #22
culcune   culcune is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MATT
Maybe I should have pour some locktite in the transmission.
I should have thought of that, too!!
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Old 03-07-2008, 05:38 PM   #23
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Well...10 miles later the vibration is back (if it was ever really gone, may have been my imagination) and is now accompanied by a strange clicking sound as I come to a stop with clutch pulled in.

this totally sucks...i dont trust it to ride anymore and has only 1000 kilometers on it.


 
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Old 03-07-2008, 05:45 PM   #24
AZ200cc   AZ200cc is offline
 
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Sounds like it is almost in a gear, Kinda like when You don't catch neutral right?? sounds more and more like that trannie is defective.
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Old 03-07-2008, 05:51 PM   #25
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well I am taking it to them tomorrow so they can check it out thoroughly. it bites though because this is my only form of transportation atm. my problem communicating to the mechanic doesnt help. I know so little that I doubt they take me seriously. They are going to have to take it out and get it warm and see for themselves. The good thing is, I know for sure they will make it right. I have no doubt of that. Just sux that I am stuck riding bicycle or bus or freakin' walking.


 
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Old 03-07-2008, 06:39 PM   #26
knothead   knothead is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zapkin
Well...10 miles later the vibration is back (if it was ever really gone, may have been my imagination) and is now accompanied by a strange clicking sound as I come to a stop with clutch pulled in.

this totally sucks...i dont trust it to ride anymore and has only 1000 kilometers on it.
Check your spokes. Just grab one at a time with your fingers and try to wiggle it. (not very scientific, but it works.) They should give just a little, but not feel loose. I had trouble with my spokes for the first 1000/1500km, three times I had to tighten them, but now I'm over 4000km and have had no more trouble.

Here's a how to I found:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcyc.../spoke-wheels/

You can tighten the spokes with the wheels still on the bike and the tires mounted (gotta keep in mind that a spoke that's too long can puncture the tube!), or you can unmount the wheels from the bike, insert the axle through the wheel and clamp the ends of it to some jackstands or anything solid enough to hold steady. The link seems to have good directions, I learned how to do it at an early age (11 or 12!), so it's not too hard. Just go slow. Oh yeah, a half turn at once is too much! 1/4 or 1/8 turn is about right once the spoke begins to tighten and you tighten them in pairs as they alternate sides around the hub.


 
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Old 03-07-2008, 10:56 PM   #27
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if some are too tight and others are too loose can I loosen them all and then tighten them up one by one and get it even close to straight?


 
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Old 03-09-2008, 01:17 AM   #28
knothead   knothead is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zapkin
if some are too tight and others are too loose can I loosen them all and then tighten them up one by one and get it even close to straight?
You could, but it's way more work than you need to put into it. When a couple of spokes loosen, the tension they loose can be transferred to the surrounding spoke making them tighter (sometimes enough to break them). You have to look at the rim, spokes and hub as a system, a change at one point affects the whole thing. Loosen them all and you'll need to adjust the lateral centering of the rim, vertical centering, roundness and trueness.
Just work on the loose ones and be mindful of keeping the rim true, when you tighten a couple of spokes, spin the wheel and watch the runout in both directions, check the tension on ALL of the spokes periodically as you work, go slow and you will be fine. Find a how to online and follow just that one, but if you run into trouble just ask. It's not hard to do. Just remember that once you start getting some tension in the spokes, MAKE SMALL ADJUSTMENTS! 1/4 turn can be big, 1/8th is better.


 
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Old 03-09-2008, 04:29 PM   #29
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Well, I am now fairly certain that the vibration is isolated to the engine. I went up on rt 250 where its hilly. One the way down at 45mph with bike vibrating like mad, I pulled in the clutch and whallaaa the vibration is gone. Therefore, the vibration is not tire related!!! or rim related !!! and...btw...after just a few more miles..its worse now than ever.


 
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Old 03-09-2008, 07:00 PM   #30
Jim   Jim is offline
 
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could be the transmission, check with your dealer..

also I suppose this is more of a rattle then a vibration, but my muffler insides rattled to pieces...
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