how to tell if a motor is seized? with pictures - Page 2

justinkr58 · 08-11-2010, 11:04 PM

so this is a 125cc. will a 150 just bolt right in. as long as i get the right leginth motor?

thanks again everyone

katoranger · 08-12-2010, 09:46 AM

The 150 should bolt in. There is top mounted style and bottom mounted style too I think.

Looks like you have a top mount. Just match up the mounting points on yours to the replacement and get the right length and you should be good to go.

Allen

justinkr58 · 08-16-2010, 11:46 PM

so does anyone know if i can just buy this and bolt it right on to my existing motor?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_3146wt_702

Weldangrind · 08-17-2010, 01:45 AM

According to the man they call Reveeen, you have a GY6. Therefore, the eBay big bore kit would seem to be a match.

That said, I don't know for sure, but I'd try it at that price.

Reveeen · 08-17-2010, 06:34 AM

Maybe................

Many times, because the bore is bigger, the part of the cylinder that enters the case is bigger than the original. This means you have to strip the case and take it (and your new cylinder) to someone capable of boring the hole (in your case) bigger. Not too many shops can do this.

I am not certain on the 125-150 swap, I know this needs doing on the 150-180 swap, so I am guessing that this will have to be done in your situation.

katoranger · 08-17-2010, 09:12 AM

Have you torn the engine down? Best to make sure that it does not have any damage to the bottom end first.

Allen

justinkr58 · 08-17-2010, 11:12 PM

thank you all, i dont know what route i will take, being that I have 250 into the bike and i might if lucky be able to get 700$ for it running, i dont know if i want to put a new 300$ motor in it.

katoranger · 08-19-2010, 09:19 AM

You may be able to get by with a new top end. Was it run low on oil?

justinkr58 · 08-30-2010, 10:45 PM

not sure why the motor seized. i bought it that way. the motor isnt totally seized,,just very tight to turn by hand with a breaker bar with the plug, valve cover and exhaust off.

justinkr58 · 08-30-2010, 11:40 PM

def thinking of this, auction says no machining,just bolt right in

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/gy6-b...s#ht_816wt_911

mizke · 08-31-2010, 03:55 AM

remove your top end and try turning the motor with the breaker bar.. if it is still has hard to turn then its the bottem end that is the problem.. the crank and connection rod should spin VERY freely..

that listing says 58.5mm bore, what is your stock bore ?

justinkr58 · 08-31-2010, 11:19 PM

well, I took pictures and the motor out and apart,,, but the pics didnt survive :( so here is what i know. it is the large motor as it is 11.5 inches mount hole to shaft. so I took the top end out and...

there was crap on one rod that holds the cylinder in but it was not magnetic as per my neo magnet. so

the cylinder walls were smooth and the rings were beautiful so took off the lower part and no problems (ps. it is over-sized from the actual cylinder so I dont think any machining will be necessary if i upgrade to the 150cc.

ok for the fun, with all the cylinder off and the piston off. the crank still is tough . i did pinpoint it to the connecting rod of the cylinder. with everything off that is the only thing that is tight at the "main shaft" (ill call it that, it is inside the motor a bolt that goes from one side of the motor to the other))

well I got both nuts off that and made a makeshift pulley to pull off the alternator but it wouldnt pop off. so im stuck with that.

I was going to try to grind that (the cylinders rod )) down till it moved freely but could not get the left side off to get the main motor open.

any comments would help.

mizke · 09-01-2010, 12:57 AM

if i read that correctly, sounds like crank bearings.. do not grind anything to make it fit better. it should fit just fine and if it does not then there is a problem..

go to youtube and do a search for atv motor rebuild.. look for the 3 part video series from rockymountain about rebuilding the bottem end.. once the piston is off the crank and connection rod should spin super easy..

TurboT · 09-01-2010, 02:12 AM

I'm following some of your post, but not all of it. I'm a bit confused when you start talking about grinding something, it sounded like you were grinding the connecting rod? Maybe I'm just confused, and misunderstanding.

If you have crud inside your engine that looks metallic but isn't magnetic, it is aluminum and is likely from two sources, your piston or your bearings. Since you say your rod is tight on the crankshaft it's eaten the bearing (as mizke said) and is the reason it will not turn. If it's that bad, you'll likely need a new crankshaft and rod. You will have to disassemble everything to change that.

Your rod should be held onto the crankshaft by two bolts, but would be hard to access from the cylinder side. You will likely need to remove it completely before getting to the bolts. On a car, you can get to it by turning the motor upside down and removing the oil pan, but on motorcycle/scooter engines that is not possible.

Good luck and would love to see photos if you can get it working.

Weldangrind · 09-01-2010, 02:29 AM

Only a guess, but I presume that all of the bearings are rollers (not babbit), so the aluminum is more likely piston material or maybe case material, if the timing chain was rubbing on the case.

BTW, there is a flywheel puller available on eBay for around $8.00.

08-17-2010, 01:45 AM	#19
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	According to the man they call Reveeen, you have a GY6. Therefore, the eBay big bore kit would seem to be a match. That said, I don't know for sure, but I'd try it at that price. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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09-01-2010, 02:29 AM	#30
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Only a guess, but I presume that all of the bearings are rollers (not babbit), so the aluminum is more likely piston material or maybe case material, if the timing chain was rubbing on the case. BTW, there is a flywheel puller available on eBay for around $8.00. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-11-2010, 11:04 PM	#16
justinkr58 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: mn Posts: 183	so this is a 125cc. will a 150 just bolt right in. as long as i get the right leginth motor? thanks again everyone
	0

08-12-2010, 09:46 AM	#17
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	The 150 should bolt in. There is top mounted style and bottom mounted style too I think. Looks like you have a top mount. Just match up the mounting points on yours to the replacement and get the right length and you should be good to go. Allen
	0

08-16-2010, 11:46 PM	#18
justinkr58 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: mn Posts: 183	so does anyone know if i can just buy this and bolt it right on to my existing motor? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_3146wt_702
	0

08-17-2010, 06:34 AM	#20
Reveeen Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: orbital platform Posts: 741	Maybe................ Many times, because the bore is bigger, the part of the cylinder that enters the case is bigger than the original. This means you have to strip the case and take it (and your new cylinder) to someone capable of boring the hole (in your case) bigger. Not too many shops can do this. I am not certain on the 125-150 swap, I know this needs doing on the 150-180 swap, so I am guessing that this will have to be done in your situation.
	0

08-17-2010, 09:12 AM	#21
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Have you torn the engine down? Best to make sure that it does not have any damage to the bottom end first. Allen
	0

08-17-2010, 11:12 PM	#22
justinkr58 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: mn Posts: 183	thank you all, i dont know what route i will take, being that I have 250 into the bike and i might if lucky be able to get 700$ for it running, i dont know if i want to put a new 300$ motor in it.
	0

08-19-2010, 09:19 AM	#23
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	You may be able to get by with a new top end. Was it run low on oil?
	0

08-30-2010, 10:45 PM	#24
justinkr58 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: mn Posts: 183	not sure why the motor seized. i bought it that way. the motor isnt totally seized,,just very tight to turn by hand with a breaker bar with the plug, valve cover and exhaust off.
	0

08-30-2010, 11:40 PM	#25
justinkr58 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: mn Posts: 183	def thinking of this, auction says no machining,just bolt right in http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/gy6-b...s#ht_816wt_911
	0

08-31-2010, 03:55 AM	#26
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	remove your top end and try turning the motor with the breaker bar.. if it is still has hard to turn then its the bottem end that is the problem.. the crank and connection rod should spin VERY freely.. that listing says 58.5mm bore, what is your stock bore ?
	0

08-31-2010, 11:19 PM	#27
justinkr58 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: mn Posts: 183	well, I took pictures and the motor out and apart,,, but the pics didnt survive :( so here is what i know. it is the large motor as it is 11.5 inches mount hole to shaft. so I took the top end out and... there was crap on one rod that holds the cylinder in but it was not magnetic as per my neo magnet. so the cylinder walls were smooth and the rings were beautiful so took off the lower part and no problems (ps. it is over-sized from the actual cylinder so I dont think any machining will be necessary if i upgrade to the 150cc. ok for the fun, with all the cylinder off and the piston off. the crank still is tough . i did pinpoint it to the connecting rod of the cylinder. with everything off that is the only thing that is tight at the "main shaft" (ill call it that, it is inside the motor a bolt that goes from one side of the motor to the other)) well I got both nuts off that and made a makeshift pulley to pull off the alternator but it wouldnt pop off. so im stuck with that. I was going to try to grind that (the cylinders rod )) down till it moved freely but could not get the left side off to get the main motor open. any comments would help.
	0

09-01-2010, 12:57 AM	#28
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	if i read that correctly, sounds like crank bearings.. do not grind anything to make it fit better. it should fit just fine and if it does not then there is a problem.. go to youtube and do a search for atv motor rebuild.. look for the 3 part video series from rockymountain about rebuilding the bottem end.. once the piston is off the crank and connection rod should spin super easy..
	0

09-01-2010, 02:12 AM	#29
TurboT Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada Posts: 2,185	I'm following some of your post, but not all of it. I'm a bit confused when you start talking about grinding something, it sounded like you were grinding the connecting rod? Maybe I'm just confused, and misunderstanding. If you have crud inside your engine that looks metallic but isn't magnetic, it is aluminum and is likely from two sources, your piston or your bearings. Since you say your rod is tight on the crankshaft it's eaten the bearing (as mizke said) and is the reason it will not turn. If it's that bad, you'll likely need a new crankshaft and rod. You will have to disassemble everything to change that. Your rod should be held onto the crankshaft by two bolts, but would be hard to access from the cylinder side. You will likely need to remove it completely before getting to the bolts. On a car, you can get to it by turning the motor upside down and removing the oil pan, but on motorcycle/scooter engines that is not possible. Good luck and would love to see photos if you can get it working.
	0