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Old 10-26-2017, 09:19 PM   #1
sjeff35   sjeff35 is offline
 
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Dear diary...

Week two of RX3 ownership.

Finally turned over 100 miles. Man, trying to keep it below 5000 RPM is going to take forever to get to 500!!!

Had my first get-off today. First ever for me. Only other bike I had was a Hardley years ago. Hit some deep sand and wasn't expecting it to be so soft. Finally got some "wear" on the crash bars!

I love this thing more and more every day!!!


 
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Old 10-26-2017, 10:34 PM   #2
pyoungbl   pyoungbl is offline
 
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Don't tell anyone but I exceeded the 5 K limit a bunch of times during my break-in. Nothing radical, maybe 7K. The bike runs just fine and does not burn any oil. I even sent oil samples to Blackstone to reassure myself that everything was OK. Now at about 5K the bike runs great and does not burn any oil.


 
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Old 10-27-2017, 05:39 AM   #3
rd1959   rd1959 is offline
 
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I've got a little over 200 miles now and I feel your pain. I just did the first oil change and now I'll run it up to 6000 rpm. This bike feels much better between 5-6k rpm.


 
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:08 AM   #4
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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As long as you properly warm up the engine/transmission before going "crazy", I wouldn't worry about a RPM limit during break in... but what do I know... I'm just another one of those "Hard Break In" nuts
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Old 10-27-2017, 01:54 PM   #5
JKR   JKR is offline
 
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Actually, from what i was told and i have had no issues is to not run long at high rpms and to not hold steady rpms for any real length of time for first 500 miles. this was from Gerry at CSC. I have just 15000 on mine and its been trouble free, fricken awesome


 
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Old 10-29-2017, 11:03 PM   #6
fjmartin   fjmartin is offline
 
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Any time you have an "off", beyond the obvious things to check on the bike before riding off again, I suggest manually spinning both fans on the radiators by hand. If they don't spin free the crash bars may have pushed the radiator and will cause the fans to rub the radiator until a leak occurs. I've had 30+ offs, bent the crash bars but not had this happen to me...but I know of several occurrences.
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Old 10-30-2017, 08:57 PM   #7
sqwert   sqwert is offline
 
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The RX# is my first bike with modern machining technology so I did a bunch of research going in and formulated my own break in procedure. The RX3 level of engine technology is a little different from the old stuff. Still, here is some info on a good method for such engines, and something I've never seen posted: Why Break In Is Necessary.

1) Check radiator fluid level before every ride. Engine friction is typically higher on a new engine and reduces significantly during break in. Engine friction causes a lot of heat, so make sure the cooling system is always capable. Modern technologies allow much closer engine tolerances, and when new such tolerances generate a lot of friction, and a lot of heat, more than older bikes.

2) Sustained loads and RPMs initiate a harsh ring groove in the cylinder wall that will limit high RPM power and increase wear rates as engine speeds and loads are increased. Varying oil viscosities, engine speeds, and engine loads during break in provides a transition along the edge of ring wear on the cylinder wall rather than a ragged edge. That is why varying such things is so beneficial.

2) Start with a relatively thick (20W-40 cool weather or 20W-50 hot weather) dino oil for motorcycles/ATVs with wet clutches that share the engine's oil sump. Such oils are formulated with different additives specifically for our application. Start and allow the computer to fast idle while the engine warms and oil circulates throughout the system. It is all automatic with the Delphi injection. Ride a few short loops, allow engine to cool between loops. Never allow a sustained throttle position or engine speed. Choppy hills and lots of curves/corners are good things. Stop signs and lights are also good if you can not get to the fun roads.

These disciplines will allow a wide variety of operating temps and internal engine pressures and that is what you really want; all the varying expansion/contraction of parts from localized temperature changes. Ride gently, the RX3 brakes are exceedingly sensitive to a VERY gentle break in, much more so than the engine. I ruined mine when a texter pulled out in front of me with only 70 miles on the bike. Lots of choppy hills, curves, corners, and stops, ridden gently, will be good for engine and brakes.

EDIT: Another good way to boost engine speeds and encourage good ring groove transition is to downshift, allowing a no load engine speed higher than your shifting engine speed. It boils down to low RPM/open throttle combined with higher RPM/closed throttle. Downshifting also lightens the load on brakes, just be sure to use enough brake for the light to come on or someone will drive over you.

3) After 100-125 miles, drain the oil and check the filters and screens for metallic bits. Everything will probably look perfect, so reinstall the same ol' filters and screens, clean/replace only if necessary, then refill with 10W-40 dino motorcycle/ATV oil. Zongshen seems to do a very clean engine build consistently. I wouldn't worry too much about throttle position or RPM as the advanced machining Zongshen uses on the RX3 engine build, along with the consistent temp provided by liquid cooling, pretty much has most everything a good fit from the start. Just make sure the throttle position and engine speed is constantly changing.

4) About 500 miles, change the oil again using the same dino motorcycle/ATV oil at 10W-40. If the filters are still spotless, probably will be, reuse them. Save money. Have fun on those choppy hills with lots of twisties, they are perfect for break ins. Gradually increase throttle opening and RPM until, approaching 500 miles, about then you should have gradually worked your maxes to full throttle and just touching the red on the tach, but only for instants. Run it up, back it off. Sustained throttle position, loads, or RPMs are bad for break in. Keep in mind the brakes need a lot more break in than the engine. Ride accordingly.

EDIT: Remember engine braking, it provides a good spin to transition the ring groove with minimal thermal spots.

5) At 1000 miles switch to a real motorcycle synthetic. Seems CSC recommends Mobil 1 Racing 4T. I've used Mobil 1 with excellent results for years. The only difference between the 10W-40 Racing 4T and the 20W-50 V-twin is the viscosity. I've used both and run 50000+ miles without rebuilds on older, less precisely machined, small displacement air cooled bikes in extreme conditions (-20*F to 112*F), when I weighed up to 285 pounds, so the engines had to scream. A lot. It is the best stuff available, except maybe some ultra premiums like some Royal Purple and Amsoil that won't be much better but cost a lot more. I have also run every vehicle I've owned on Mobil 1 twice the miles between changes as dino recommendations, never had a problem. Keep in mind a big fat guy, bikes of 100cc to 200 cc displacement, 50000+ miles before doing a top end for oil leaks, burnt valves, or broken parts, but not because of engine wear. CSC is spot on with this recommendation.

I run the Racing 4T in my RX3. Synthetic oil has a broader effective temperature range than dino, especially retaining effectiveness at higher temps that would coke dino, so I don't see ever needing the V-Twin's thicker viscosity in the RX3. I wish Mobil 1 came in a motorcycle blend at 5W-30 for winter use.

6) After 1000 miles and switched to Mobil 1 Racing 4T feel free to run sustained speeds, loads, and throttle settings. Take a trip! You will also notice a bit of power and a wider powerband developing during break in, with the rate of improvement improving gradually the first 1000 miles. Internal engine and trans parts will feel smoother with Mobil 1, and power will not improve as rapidly, but over the first 2000 miles on Mobil 1 there was as much improvement in powerband and power peak as there was with the dino oil the first 1000 miles.

At 6000+ miles, I am still noticing a slight rate of improvement, but the rate is slowed way down from before. I've never had a bike with such positive improvement over so long, and it wasn't bad when new. Well, the top end wasn't bad, but the RPM band of a 24hp 250 is pretty narrow. As break in progressed, not a whole lot of peak output came along, but the power band did get a lot fatter. The result? A much quicker bike, more choices of effective gears at any given time, much easier to ride, and about 6mpg improvement in fuel efficiency over time.

So, that's my opinion on break in, and some of the reasoning behind my process. Different from older bikes because of modern improvements in machining engines. Seems to do a good job.

I'm not even going in to fake "synthetic" diesel truck oils in motorcycles. Things have changed the past few years, and the cost difference does not justify the risk, at least for me. Just keep in mind most major oil suppliers sell 10-12 different diesel truck oils for various engine technology and operating environment combinations, about half of which will damage our engines and clutches.


 
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Old 11-01-2017, 10:23 PM   #8
AdventureDad   AdventureDad is offline
 
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That's about the clearest, most concise description of engine break-in and what to do, what not to do... that I've read. Cut's right through the bs. Good work.


 
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:02 PM   #9
sqwert   sqwert is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureDad View Post
That's about the clearest, most concise description of engine break-in and what to do, what not to do... that I've read. Cut's right through the bs. Good work.
Thank you for the kind words. Most of this procedure is pretty anal, but regrets are avoided.


 
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:35 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by sqwert View Post
Thank you for the kind words. Most of this procedure is pretty anal, but regrets are avoided.
You might give megadan a run for the money with the specifics in the posts
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Old 11-07-2017, 11:39 AM   #11
sqwert   sqwert is offline
 
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Originally Posted by BlackBike View Post
You might give megadan a run for the money with the specifics in the posts
Cut the complements, they go to my head. I actually carry a couple glass belly buttons at all times so I don't have to do without when I hand one to a most deserving suspect, he or she asks, "What's this?", and I respond, "A glass belly button" as I turn and walk away. Really.


 
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Old 11-07-2017, 08:45 PM   #12
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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Grin

Well then _iss on ya

Keep on posting
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Old 11-10-2017, 08:20 PM   #13
sqwert   sqwert is offline
 
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Originally Posted by BlackBike View Post
Well then _iss on ya

Keep on posting
Just what I'd expect from a Texan. I was born in the Hill Country west of San Marcos. Any real Texan or adequately experienced psuedo Texan understands.

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