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Old 06-26-2022, 07:40 AM   #1
trez00d   trez00d is offline
 
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Doh! Clutch cable replacement questions

Yesterday morning, the clutch cable to my 2020 Hawk 250 snapped right at the barrrel on the cable on the lever side. I ordered a new CSC TT250 clutch cable, but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience replacing this cable on this bike, specifically if anyone has managed to remove the clutch cable near the engine without entirely disassembling the exhaust. I really don't want to have to take apart the whole exhaust just for that clutch cable. I'll do it, but the bolts are all rusty and I may end up just fucking up the whole engine trying to do that. Anyone have any advice? Like perhaps would some open ended wrenches simply do the trick? Thanks guys!


 
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Old 06-26-2022, 08:08 AM   #2
Thumper   Thumper is offline
 
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Everything should be accessible, even without removing the tank if it is an EFI model, where the cable is routed on the right side of the frame and the cable connects to the throttle body just under the right side of the tank. Removing the tank might make it easier to see it all, but that is a whole lot of work, and probably unnecessary. Also, removing the connections to the fuel pump isn't supposed to be catastrophic, but you may end up with a leak after reassembly!

There will be minor fuel spillage if you pull the tank, so have a couple of rags handy, and the sender wiring will need to be removed (gas gauge). If this is not an EFI model, then tank removal will make the cable connection at the carb more accessible.

Here is a related video from another post on fuel pump replacement. It may not be relevant if you are carbed! There is a good view of the cabling at the throttle body on the EFI model at ~ just under 3 minutes:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=343895


 
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Old 06-26-2022, 08:14 AM   #3
trez00d   trez00d is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
Everything should be accessible, even without removing the tank if it is an EFI model, where the cable is routed on the right side of the frame and the cable connects to the throttle body just under the right side of the tank. Removing the tank might make it easier to see it all, but that is a whole lot of work, and probably unnecessary. Also, removing the connections to the fuel pump isn't supposed to be catastrophic, but you may end up with a leak after reassembly!

There will be minor fuel spillage if you pull the tank, so have a couple of rags handy, and the sender wiring will need to be removed (gas gauge). If this is not an EFI model, then tank removal will make the cable connection at the carb more accessible.

Here is a related video from another post on fuel pump replacement. It may not be relevant if you are carbed! There is a good view of the cabling at the throttle body on the EFI model at ~ just under 3 minutes:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=343895

It's really just because the exhaust is so close to the engine and adjusters that I can't really get anything in that tight little area. There's maybe 5 degrees of range where I can get something through so I may just have to to it 1/24 turn by 1/24 turn LOL. I'll probably remove the tank though just for good visibility. Thanks for the info!


 
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Old 06-26-2022, 02:04 PM   #4
Thumper   Thumper is offline
 
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I have a throttle cable bind on the Storm that recently developed. It is at the beginning of the twist. My templar has a cam roller type throttle linkage at the grip. It makes the throttle VERY smooth, so I understand why this tech upgrade is good. I'd rather not replace it. Maybe some teflon lubrication will fix it once I get into it.

It sounds like you have an EFI HAWK (?). If the is that case, then no reason to remove the tank (and disconnecting that stuff involves seals risk!).

If carbed, the reason for removing the tank is to make sure that the cable routing doesn't cause binding. Pushing the cable housing through there blind is not a good idea!


 
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Old 06-26-2022, 05:02 PM   #5
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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You can do it without removing the header pipe, but it is rather tricky and annoying. You can remove the muffler and mid pipe, then loosen the flange nuts enough to rotate the header pipe up out of the way enough to have more room to work.
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