Soon to be Rhino owner

[Mudflap]

I went the 428 chain and sprocket route on the Rhino to get the 3.33 ratio. DID Xring chain $65, Taotao ATA250D stock rear sprocket $30, JTF259.12 front sprocket $8.

BTW: Most reports I've read on the Rhino ride quality say it's hard as a rock, I agree. Much of the rough ride is due to the recommended 10 psi tire pressure which might as well be 50 psi. The tires just don't flex much at 10 psi which is fine on a hard smooth surface but sucks on bumps. Lowering them to 5 psi makes a huge difference. 2.9 psi is recommended pressure on the ATA250D so why 10 psi for the Rhino?

[IAmTheRed1]

All he threads on here have been extremely helpful. I bought my rhino in 2015 but due to issues with my back didn't do much to it. Just rear wheel spacers, a new "race" coil/plug wire, better spark plug and a couple oil changes. I sat in the shed a lot until recently. The stock carb is gummed up so I ordered an upgrade and a set of main and pilot jets. I figured as long as I am going to be replacing that I would read up and start doing some other mods. I ordered an 11 tooth counter sprocket , and am interested to see if he 40 tooth rear David ordered works. I have a winch sitting in my shed so the different winch mounting brackets, & hitch plates you guys have designed have also sparked my interest. Has anyone upgraded the electronics like the CDI, Relay, and Regulator/Rectifier?

[IAmTheRed1]

Oh and I agree with you all that the headlights are worthless, but it seems like most of you had 35/35watt bulbs? I pulled mine today and they are 10/10.

[Darth Racer]

No clue why the Rhino tires are rated at 10psi ... if 5 or less works for you then go with it... I'm game to try it but still would like a softer rear shock.

I have only read a little bit about the CDI for the Rhino/250ATA D ... seems most are just using the stock Tao tao ones.. read in a couple places of people trying upgraded ones with not much luck. Maybe someone who has had success with upgrades will chime in.

I'd like to have a spare in the truck if mine ever goes when I'm back in the woods.

[david3921]

So, an update on the rear sprocket. I got an email from Eagle that said that they no longer stock it. It's still on their website, though. I checked the part number and Google showed that it was sold on a couple sites...the Texas sites that are run from one warehouse, 360 and TXPowersports. The TXP site was the cheapest at $25 and no shipping charges. So I ordered it from them. Funny thing, the 360 site stated that they had 2 in stock while TXP didn't say anything. If they are the same place then I might be able to get one. This could be a blessing in disguise (lower price) or a waste of time. I'll keep youz updated.

[Mudflap]

I like to keep a spare CDI on the machine, especially since I had one fail on another bike. I ordered 2 different CDIs from ebay that were advertised to work on the ATA250D but neither worked. Spark was too advanced at idle. Now I carry the one sold by the Taotao parts people which works fine.

Originally Posted by Darth Racer

No clue why the Rhino tires are rated at 10psi ... if 5 or less works for you then go with it... I'm game to try it but still would like a softer rear shock.

I have only read a little bit about the CDI for the Rhino/250ATA D ... seems most are just using the stock Tao tao ones.. read in a couple places of people trying upgraded ones with not much luck. Maybe someone who has had success with upgrades will chime in.

I'd like to have a spare in the truck if mine ever goes when I'm back in the woods.

[justjoe001]

Hi all, could you tell me where I could get spacers for the rear wheels? I would like to stretch out the space between them. Are 2 inch spacers the biggest you can go? What else is needed to do this mod? thanks

[Darth Racer]

Originally Posted by Mudflap

I like to keep a spare CDI on the machine, especially since I had one fail on another bike. I ordered 2 different CDIs from ebay that were advertised to work on the ATA250D but neither worked. Spark was too advanced at idle. Now I carry the one sold by the Taotao parts people which works fine.

Yeah its talk like that which makes me want to have a spare. Thanks for confirming the Eagle ones work. Will pick up one along with the other electrical spares. They all looked cheap enough. Prefer to keep that stuff in the truck if needed. Already have spare chain, chain tools, oil, carb cleaner, spark plug, jets. At worst its a mile walk back if needed... but in a safe place.

Hey Joe I will update my punch list of mods on the first page with links... give me a little time to dig them up.

[Darth Racer]

Done. When digging around for the links I noticed WGS carries a 41t rear sprocket for the Rhino now for an even higher price. So the 40t David found should fit. 41t might be the max without having to saw off the sprocket guard. I would go with the one David found if it works... 1t isn't worth the extra $50... you wont notice the difference.

The steel sprocket will last longer too.

[justjoe001]

what is the hub slide stop for?

[Mudflap]

Are you referring to the tube that slides over the right hand side of the rear axle?

On the ATA250D there is nothing to stop the right rear wheel hub from sliding too far on to the axle except a weird little washer that gets crushed when you tighten the wheel nut. Eventually it shears off which allows the hub to get loose on the axle and wear the splines. The axle is slightly different on the new Rhino I just got so the hub is held in place better, and without the washer, so the tube may not be necessary. I'll use one anyway as a precaution.

Originally Posted by justjoe001

what is the hub slide stop for?

[justjoe001]

So you're saying when you add spacers on the rear wheels you potentially need to add this sleeve to ensure the hub doesn't slide? I just bought my Rhino brand new last month so hopefully that's not the case but you would suggest doing it anyway? Thanks

[Mudflap]

Wheel spacers won't make any difference in deciding if the sleeve is necessary. If your right rear hub doesn't have the little washer behind it to stop it from sliding too far onto the axle it has the newer axle design and probably doesn't need the sleeve. I'll install the sleeve on mine anyway just for peace of mind.

Another weak point is the regulator being mounted with one bolt on a little tab welded to the frame. This broke on my ATA250D and the design is the same on the Rhino. One of those wire bundle things, don't know what they're called, a metal band with a rubber insert, can be added as a lower mount.

Originally Posted by justjoe001

So you're saying when you add spacers on the rear wheels you potentially need to add this sleeve to ensure the hub doesn't slide? I just bought my Rhino brand new last month so hopefully that's not the case but you would suggest doing it anyway? Thanks

[david3921]

Here's Mudflap's post about the washer.
http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...ghlight=washer

I mistakenly credited the fix to Darth in an earlier post. I've fixed that and apologies to both.

Maybe Darth and 2ZL can weigh in as to whether the Rhino still has the washer.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by david3921

Maybe Darth and 2ZL can weigh in as to whether the Rhino still has the washer.

I see no washers. I do have the slipover pipe repair on the list to do someday though.