Yesterday, 10:06 PM | #91 |
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 76
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A 40 pilot is way too rich for a 150, even at sea level. A 38 would be fine at sea level.
I'm at sea level, and currently running a 35 pilot and a 110 main, but it's still a bit lean. This week I'll be swapping out the 110 main jet for a 115. I did add about 2.5 turns on the AF screw, to get it to idle better when cold. A lean idle is no problem, so long the bike starts from cold. Once warms up, the bike should hold idle fine. The pops on decel are from a lean idle jet, but usually are harmless. Can be avoided by opening the throttle a tiny bit, or dialing in some more fuel on the AF screw. Aside from the idle (or pilot) jet, there is the AF screw (jet), and a bit of the main jet helping out the pilot. The higher the idle, the more of the main jet you dial in, and the richer it'll idle. |
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Today, 08:29 AM | #92 |
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: NC
Posts: 208
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Yep, agreed. Unfortunately, my OEM YouALL carb’s A/F screw is sealed with a what appears to be a welch plug and it doesn’t seem that I can notch it out and/or unscrew it out. I can get the “sealed” carb bowl screws off by notching them with my Dremel, but I just wanted to throw the Mikuni VM26 on and see what happened. I definitely agree that a 40 pilot is too rich. It seems that given my elevation, a 38 pilot jet would be just about right and/or what you’ve already noted with the A/F screw adjustment. I’d actually prefer to leave the stock carb on and just adjust it as it ran pretty decent out of the box. I’m just not crazy about the fact that the two piece pilot jet seems to be a weirdo proprietary thing that this OEM YouAll carb has. I need to take it out and see if I could make an OEM PZ27 pilot work via measuring the two-piece OEM YouAll pilot jet. I’ll report back later in the week if I think I can source a one-piece pilot jet from jetsrus.com or from another source. Thanks for your input!
Last edited by Dusman; Today at 10:59 AM. |
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Today, 11:05 AM | #93 |
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 76
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I wouldn't buy any expensive carburetor, but go for the PZ or VM equivalent of your bike.
You could drill out the AF screw plug with a wood screw, or a drill. But I wouldn't even begin to bother about it. A PZ27 (with mounting flange) or a VM27 without mounting flange, cost about $20, and come with a pod airfilter and fuel filter. All you'll need is a $10 jetkit, to jet up the main jet. The 95 main jet is too lean everywhere but on the peak of mount Everest. |
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Today, 11:39 AM | #94 |
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Florida
Posts: 5
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It seems as if the muffler is also doubling as a catalytic converter, I pulled mine off this morning and you can see the honey comb material inside of it. Take note that the slip joint is an exhaust leak unless you seal it up with high temperature RTV. If you pull yours off you will see the black soot where it's leaking.
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Today, 01:14 PM | #95 |
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: NC
Posts: 208
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Thanks! I’ve got enough old carbs laying around that are in good shape, everything from PZ27s to VM22s to choose from. I definitely don’t need to buy one. I would like to try to see if I can source jets for this OEM YouAll PZ27 though just in case someone else on here would like to try to re-jet the OEM carb. Thanks for the input; it’s much appreciated!
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