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07-23-2017, 06:51 PM | #1 |
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 120
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Thanks so much Megadan! This was bothering me for the last few weeks. I've had this problem and I also recently noticed that my rear swingarm was crushed after torquing to "specs" and I've read tons of wheel bearing issues also so I took everything off for inspection today.
The wave washers totally eliminated ALL wiggle in the sprocket. I feel much safer now. I also found that none of my inner races (Front or rear) would spin freely. I apparently crushed the bearings inner races too tightly on the internal spacer tube. I'm replacing all my wheel bearings now and only putting the axles back on until my judgement says they're tight. I'm not using anything north of 30ft lbs for sure and probably less. I just don't think the China steel can handle it. |
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07-23-2017, 07:09 PM | #2 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,006
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The wheel bearing issues are seemingly another common issue with the 2017 bikes. My rears were also locked up. Same with the swing arms. I tightened mine until the wheel spacers seated gave gave them a snug up after that. I also used loctite 242 on the axle nut just for assurance.
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Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124 |
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08-28-2017, 05:23 AM | #3 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,006
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Long-ish term update. Since doing the last fix I have logged over 700 miles on the bike, and I am happy to report that my sprocket is still rock solid. I am confident enough at this point to give my own seal of approval on the wave washer/shim method to take up the gap between the sprocket and snap ring. I still highly recommend getting NOS Honda studs to replace the factory ones, but it may not always be necessary.
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08-28-2017, 02:54 PM | #4 | |
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 10
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Did you trim the wave washers to match the stud with a rounded section cut off or just tighten down till it squashed flat?
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08-28-2017, 09:51 PM | #5 |
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 868
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Do you have links the hardware you are using?
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2015 and 3/4 RPS Hawk 250. Most people would call it a 2016 but the MCO didn't. |
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08-29-2017, 02:44 PM | #6 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,006
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The studs were the Honda part number listed at the top of this page in my post. The rest of the hardware came from the local hardware store.
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08-29-2017, 09:35 PM | #7 |
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 868
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So I order the studs and go to Ace Hardware. Did you use stainless nuts?
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2015 and 3/4 RPS Hawk 250. Most people would call it a 2016 but the MCO didn't. |
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08-30-2017, 07:34 AM | #8 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,006
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Quote:
As far as the studs, there are two options. 1. The studs I am using, which are an M8 thread and will use the smaller set of holes in the JT Sprockets, but will be too small for the stock sprocket which only has one pattern. Part #: 90128-361-000 2. Alternate part number, and an M10 thread. These would be a more direct replacement to the stock studs, although I don't know if the thread pitch is the same. I may order these in the future, but I am happy with my current ones. These would use the larger holes on a JT sprocket, and would also work with the stock sprocket. Part #: 90128-KE2-940 As far as the nuts, yes I essentially went to Ace Hardware and picked out some "serrated" flange head nuts. I did not use Stainless, but only because they didn't have any M8x1.25 flange head stainless nuts. Your other option would be normal nuts, with a lock washer and normal washer under them. If you do the studs and nuts, tighten it all up, and still have a little wiggle in the sprocket, then 4 wave washers did the trick for me. They tend to be very thin and made a great shim to take up the gap between the sprocket and snap ring that I had. Something I also did, but is probably not necessary, was to put 2 or 3 tiny little dabs of Loctite 620 retaining compound on the studs. This was more done for insurance, and given the forces that the studs see, has probably already released anyway. If not...I may have fun removing the studs later as even a tiny bit of that stuff can be a bear to break free. So for that reason I would say maybe skip that part.
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01-15-2018, 02:58 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 37
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Magadan will these work? http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/...-940-part.html
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01-15-2018, 04:08 PM | #10 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,006
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Quote:
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01-15-2018, 04:36 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 37
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08-26-2023, 08:31 PM | #12 | |
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 2
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