02-28-2015, 06:51 PM | #16 |
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 75
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Well that didn't work I thought and was hoping that I had that switch but I don't here are few pictures of my switch. Is there a way to test the kill switch and here are a few picture's of my Carbs there are 2 of them trying to get a rebuild kit for them but no luck so far. AJ parts has them but no rebuild kits just carbs don't have the money for 2 they are 129.00 a each. So any one know of what I can use instead of them there Keihin to.
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02-28-2015, 06:57 PM | #17 |
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 75
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More pictures of carb
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03-01-2015, 12:57 PM | #18 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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You can test the switch with a multimeter. Figure out which wires come from the kill switch, unplug them and set the multimeter to continuity testing. Here's the odd part: when you turn the kill switch off, the meter should show continuity. When you turn the switch off, the circuit will be open. Confusing, until you understand why.
You're not likely to need rebuild kits for the carbs. Take many pics as you go, and dismantle them. Use an aerosol carb cleaner (like from Walmart) and an old toothbrush. Clean every area inside and outside the carb, and remove the two jets for cleaning. I suspect that the slow jet is partially clogged, so it'll need to be cleared. I've used a single strand from a wire brush with good success. You might be able to use Mikuni carbs in place, but that depends on the throttle cable setup. For now, focus on cleaning your carbs.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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03-01-2015, 10:49 PM | #19 |
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 75
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looks like the kill switch is working. So I think I will clean the carbs and put them back on see what happens . What about the gaskets on the carbs? I do need a fuel tank for my HI Bird 250 know and who has one? And thanks for the help.
Last edited by maverickfe; 03-01-2015 at 10:51 PM. Reason: forgot somethings |
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03-02-2015, 11:06 AM | #20 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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I'm guessing that you still don't have spark.
Has the wiring harness been tampered with at all?
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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03-02-2015, 11:07 AM | #21 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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I'd try eBay for a fuel tank. The carb gaskets should be reusable; I always put a light film of grease on them.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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03-03-2015, 10:16 AM | #23 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Do you also have a key switch?
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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03-03-2015, 03:11 PM | #24 |
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 75
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Yes I do its a brand new one. The other day I unplugged 2 wires from the stator and checked that no ac when turned on but when I turned it over it went up to 62.4 a/c volts
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03-03-2015, 03:46 PM | #25 |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Deerfield Beach FL
Posts: 1,410
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You should also have a signal wire coming from your stator. This wire signals the cdi on every revolution and tells the cdi when to fire the coil and spark plug. I rewired my new bike as we are all instructed to do during initial assembly. It wouldn't start and I couldn't figure it out. I finally started messing with all my new terminal connections and I pulled on one and the wire came right out. I either forgot to strip the insulation from the wire or when I crimped it I cut right through the wire. Either way when I redid the connection the bike fired right up.
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03-03-2015, 03:48 PM | #26 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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I had a key switch fail, so I bought a new one. My switch has four wires, and they disappear into a plastic boot. The new switch had the same four colours.
After a week of troubleshooting a no-start condition, I went back to the key switch. It turns out that the wire colours on the new switch actually go to different contact points than the old switch! I ended up peeling back the boot on the old switch, and that revealed a wire that had come away from a terminal. I soldered it back on, started the engine and called it a win. The moral: don't assume that your new switch is correct, even though it may appear to be. Do you have the old switch for testing purposes?
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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03-03-2015, 03:50 PM | #27 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Quote:
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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03-03-2015, 05:04 PM | #28 |
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 75
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I think before I do that I'm going to try this weekend and check the timing because it a twin cylinders and see if it's okay.
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03-03-2015, 09:40 PM | #29 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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I forgot about it being a twin. Nevertheless, even if the timing was out, you'd still get spark. I'm stuck on the no-spark issue.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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03-03-2015, 10:19 PM | #30 |
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 75
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Let me tell you so am I
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