03-15-2016, 03:19 PM
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#16 |
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 36
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Hi Superdud
I have a bad news , this morning it who's colder, than one weekend around +3'C, the engine doesn't start good. As before start and stops after 1 seconds. I know now that the issue with my bike is a battery CCA - cold crank Amp - which they not indicate on my battery. On the evening when the temperature who's +9'C starts Ok. It is better then before. Superdud have a tried first all the cable Conection for water licks in to them, that's my 2 time when I have found water in, 1 in lambda Conection 2 time in spark coil. Good luck please update when you solve the problem. |
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03-15-2016, 04:02 PM
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#17 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Seattle/Tacoma
Posts: 104
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Quote:
Thanks for the update artur. And although I appreciate nicknames, I hope your newfound spelling of my name "super-dud" is not one that will stick.  When you go to start your bike and it is cold, does it seem it is low on cranking power as well? Mine does not seem low it seems more characteristics of the motor than the electrics. But, I have not used my new AGM battery yet so that would be great if that will solve a lot if not all the issues I am having. Still planning on doing valve adjustment/check on friday either way. Until then..Superdud out 
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03-15-2016, 04:57 PM
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#18 |
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 36
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Sorry for wrong spelling, I tried my best :-)
When is cold yes I can feel that the battery is low on CCA. I have read that, when the battery is low on power, when you start all the power from the alternator going to battery and that's what kills the engine. I have thinking about something else. The Ecu, maybe when it is cold send wrong setup for all of engine components. This com to my head after raiding in -2'C when the red light who's coming up so often, cause by high RPM. Now isn't com up for 2 weeks without any adjustments. Some times when it is different temperatures or different pressure the Ecu measure that and send the right amount of fuel. In some days it is good when the others isn't. My battery its pretty new maybe 2 months, but the quality is unknown for me. |
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03-28-2016, 11:30 AM
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#19 |
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Seattle/Tacoma
Posts: 104
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Well over the weekend I finally tackled my valves. It definitely was much easier than I thought it would be. As with most projects, having the right tools is definitely key and thankfully I had everything I needed to get it done quickly and efficiently. I think next time I can get it done in under an hour, and for a valve check even quicker. My intakes were at .09mm and my exhausts were at .1mm. So very loose. I assumed my valves would be tight since CSC sets them on the loose end and leaves them room to tighten up but mine did opposite. Any one have insights into why?
Either way I adjusted them all to .06 turned the motor a few times re-checked and was still good, buttoned everything back together and took bike for a ride. It was the best its ever been. Bike started up right away as opposed to start die start again. Throttle response is immediate now instead of a hair of lag when twisting it and I dont know if anyone has ever said this about the RX-3, but it pulled really hard all the way through the gears. So with my new battery and valve adjustment I think I'm ready for summer. Any update on your Artur? Glad for this forum and all its tips and support. Nothing we cant do when you've got chinariders at your back 
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03-28-2016, 11:45 AM
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#20 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: FL, GA, NC
Posts: 771
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Quote:
The intakes were .005 inch, and the exhausts were .001 inch (my feeler gauges are in inches). Correction: both were at .003 inch at the first valve check. jib
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2016 Honda CB500F......2017 Triumph Street Twin 2014 XT 250........ Last edited by jbfla; 03-28-2016 at 01:04 PM. |
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