Starts Only In Neutral

Eco Mouse · 04-02-2016, 01:58 AM

I just noticed this the other day. But I can't re-start the bike if I'm in 1st, just holding the clutch in. Is this normal? I'm pretty sure every other bike I've owned I could do this... (unless the kickstand was down, but I usually disable that right away. I'm not prone to catapulting myself like a noob)

rjmorel · 04-02-2016, 03:49 AM

I still have the original battery in my RX3 and I think I remember it being harder to start in gear. It seems like the battery is week and if left in gear the added drag sucks to much out of the battery and maybe not have enough poop to fire it up????? So I always put it in neutral. rj

SpudRider · 04-02-2016, 04:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eco Mouse

I just noticed this the other day. But I can't re-start the bike if I'm in 1st, just holding the clutch in. Is this normal? I'm pretty sure every other bike I've owned I could do this... (unless the kickstand was down, but I usually disable that right away. I'm not prone to catapulting myself like a noob)

No, it's not normal. I start my RX3 all the time with the transmission in gear, and the clutch disengaged. However, as Rob stated, a weak battery can cause this problem.

detours · 04-02-2016, 06:33 AM

On my original engine, it was easy to start in gear with the clutch in. With only 100 miles on the new engine, it lurches a bit, but it still starts.

Is this new for your bike?

Mudflap · 04-02-2016, 07:03 AM

A bad or disconnected clutch switch or diode can cause the problem.

Lee R · 04-02-2016, 08:07 AM

Mine has some friction in the clutch when starting in 1st but it starts. I typically try to start it in Neutral as It can't be much good for the starter motor.

The clutch seems like it's engaged just a little bit even when the lever is pulled in. The engagement point on mine is right at the end of the lever throw.

Eco Mouse · 04-02-2016, 04:49 PM

OK, I did notice that there is wiring going to the clutch lever. Is there a way I can bypass this or add a jumper?

Think about how impossibly difficult it would be to have to keep finding neutral every time you stall out on a technical rocky trail. I'd probably just rage quit and leave the bike there.

I've never been too thrilled with the clutch lever, or it's odd engagement point in the friction zone My hope was that new adjustable levers would cure that. Perhaps, my issue is that I am not able to pull the lever far enough, and thus it it's keeping me from hitting the starter?

Ron B · 04-02-2016, 04:53 PM

if you have a meter you could ohm the switch out and see if its working.

Jay In Milpitas · 04-02-2016, 05:39 PM

The clutch safety switch should be fully closed with the lever pulled just slightly. You can see the little plunger when you pull the clutch in.

I suggest first checking that the plunger is moving freely, then check that the connecters are fully engaged.

If both those are okay, test the switch with a meter, then the starter diode as Mudflap suggested.

SpudRider · 04-03-2016, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eco Mouse

OK, I did notice that there is wiring going to the clutch lever. Is there a way I can bypass this or add a jumper?

Think about how impossibly difficult it would be to have to keep finding neutral every time you stall out on a technical rocky trail. I'd probably just rage quit and leave the bike there.

I've never been too thrilled with the clutch lever, or it's odd engagement point in the friction zone My hope was that new adjustable levers would cure that. Perhaps, my issue is that I am not able to pull the lever far enough, and thus it it's keeping me from hitting the starter?

Yes, you can bypass the clutch safety switch by unplugging the two wires from the switch, and connecting them together. When you connect these wires you also bypass the diode, which only functions when the transmission is in neutral.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15558

david3921 · 04-03-2016, 09:20 AM

Bypass the switch with a small, bare wire or even a paperclip. If it starts in gear after the bypass, the clutch switch is suspect. You might find that the wires or even the switch is loose when you do the test. Pinch both plugs slightly and add diaelectrict grease (if you have it) to the connections and reconnect. If the switch is loose, take out the screws and use thread lock when you reinstall.

04-02-2016, 01:58 AM	#1
Eco Mouse Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 158	Starts Only In Neutral I just noticed this the other day. But I can't re-start the bike if I'm in 1st, just holding the clutch in. Is this normal? I'm pretty sure every other bike I've owned I could do this... (unless the kickstand was down, but I usually disable that right away. I'm not prone to catapulting myself like a noob)
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04-02-2016, 03:49 AM	#2
rjmorel Join Date: May 2007 Location: Warshington Posts: 928	I still have the original battery in my RX3 and I think I remember it being harder to start in gear. It seems like the battery is week and if left in gear the added drag sucks to much out of the battery and maybe not have enough poop to fire it up????? So I always put it in neutral. rj __________________ Live Zong, and Prosper
	0

04-02-2016, 06:33 AM	#4
detours Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Arvada, CO Posts: 1,004	On my original engine, it was easy to start in gear with the clutch in. With only 100 miles on the new engine, it lurches a bit, but it still starts. Is this new for your bike? __________________ Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol
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04-03-2016, 09:20 AM	#11
david3921 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,030	Bypass the switch with a small, bare wire or even a paperclip. If it starts in gear after the bypass, the clutch switch is suspect. You might find that the wires or even the switch is loose when you do the test. Pinch both plugs slightly and add diaelectrict grease (if you have it) to the connections and reconnect. If the switch is loose, take out the screws and use thread lock when you reinstall. __________________ 2012 Kawasaki Versys 1984 Honda Magna V65 2016 Rhino 250 2016 Tao Tao 125D
	1

04-02-2016, 07:03 AM	#5
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	A bad or disconnected clutch switch or diode can cause the problem.
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04-02-2016, 08:07 AM	#6
Lee R Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 343	Mine has some friction in the clutch when starting in 1st but it starts. I typically try to start it in Neutral as It can't be much good for the starter motor. The clutch seems like it's engaged just a little bit even when the lever is pulled in. The engagement point on mine is right at the end of the lever throw.
	0

04-02-2016, 04:49 PM	#7
Eco Mouse Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 158	OK, I did notice that there is wiring going to the clutch lever. Is there a way I can bypass this or add a jumper? Think about how impossibly difficult it would be to have to keep finding neutral every time you stall out on a technical rocky trail. I'd probably just rage quit and leave the bike there. I've never been too thrilled with the clutch lever, or it's odd engagement point in the friction zone My hope was that new adjustable levers would cure that. Perhaps, my issue is that I am not able to pull the lever far enough, and thus it it's keeping me from hitting the starter?
	0

04-02-2016, 04:53 PM	#8
Ron B Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Tuscaloosa Al. Posts: 433	if you have a meter you could ohm the switch out and see if its working.
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04-02-2016, 05:39 PM	#9
Jay In Milpitas Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Milpitas, CA. USA Posts: 775	The clutch safety switch should be fully closed with the lever pulled just slightly. You can see the little plunger when you pull the clutch in. I suggest first checking that the plunger is moving freely, then check that the connecters are fully engaged. If both those are okay, test the switch with a meter, then the starter diode as Mudflap suggested.
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