Motorcycle Oil vs Automotive Oil

[detours]

Originally Posted by rukanzen

It seems to be marketing hype is the reason why motorcycle oils costs more than their automotive counterparts. Read the article in the link that scientifically proves that there is no difference in oil performance for both types. I will be switching to Mobil 1 for my next oil change..

http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

The article discusses three topics and concludes that automotive oil meets all requirements for motorcycle use in these areas:

• Anti-wear additives
• Heat and shear resistance
• Viscosity retention

Assuming a water-cooled motorcycle and a dry clutch (or a separate transmission reservoir, like Harleys), I have no argument with the article.

However, air-cooled engines run much hotter than water-cooled ones and require much higher heat and shear-resistance. So I would make sure to use a heavy duty or extreme service 20w-50 car oil (preferably synthetic) if you go this route with a Harley, Ural or similar machine.

But also, remember that the RX3 uses a wet clutch. And as others have said, the friction modifiers in car oil can make a wet clutch slip. Over the long term they can soak into the clutch plates and damage them permanently. Maybe some clutch plates would resist longer ... and maybe some car oils would have less of an effect ... but I wouldn't take the chance.

If I had an oil leak in the middle of nowhere and couldn't find motorcycle oil, you bet I'd fill it with car oil and hope for the best. Then I'd change it for JASO-MA as soon as I got where I was going.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Lee R

I've got T6 in my RX3 right now and it's working fine. The 20w50 does seem to shift a tiny bit better but nothing huge. I'd use the 20w50 or what spud uses if your operating in the summer. For colder temps I'll stick with the Rotella.

Lee, is this the regular T6 that anyone can grab off the shelf at Wally World or is this a "motorcycle specific" T6?
I have Spud's favorite 15w/40 in my RX3 right now for break-in but prefer to run a full synthetic after break-in in all my bikes. I want to run a 20W/50 because that's what the neck tag on the RX3 specifically calls for.
Like I stated in my last post, I've never had any real issues with clutches or anything running car oils in my bikes in the past....though the new oils have changed quite a bit.

[Lee R]

It's available at Walmart, Autozone etc. I've had good luck with it and it's on sale often for about 15 dollars a gallon. It's JASO MA rated.

[BlackBike]

T6. 5w40. Walmart 19.16

[BlackBike]

Don't see a 20 w 50 in Walmart with jaso

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by FastDoc

Don't use 'Energy Conserving' and all else is good.
All that matters is get the viscosity in the ballpark and change it.

If cost is no matter and you feel better spend as much as you like on synthetic...

As usual, I agree completely with FastDoc. The additives in the oil will usually fail before the oil itself. Therefore, changing the oil frequently is the most important factor.