Ssr xf250

[culcune]

You proved you have one of the most underrated Chinese bikes, which have been here for several years! I mean, you simply rode it on a dirt road without drama proving its capability as a reliable bike during a commute, no less, as opposed to someone doing the same ride on a Hawk, Enforcer, or TT250 for fun on the weekend.

[Derekon2s]

awesome pics of the bike! Mine hasnt' gotten ridden nearly enough, as I've been dealing with this stupid carb issue for awhile and of course i somehow lost the MCO for the bike, so i haven't been able to register it. Been kind of a pain in the ass to deal with my dealer on this, but he finally got a new one coming. Hopefully i'll have it next week and can do some fucking off. I have those same Kendas, pretty meaty tire! A buddy had those on his KLR and that tore the shit out of that thing and those tires held up a long time. I hope to start getting this bike broken in sooner than later.



DH: I think i'd rather have the header pipe and the mid pipe for some more power, plus it's stainless steel. It is around 100-130 bucks for both pieces though. With the midpipe, I just need an adapter to get it to fit to an aftermarket one, correct?

Anyone have any suggestions for the clutch lever? After working it for awhile, it kills my hand, especially doiing a lot of low-speed stuff. I have trigger finger in my middle finger, so my hand aches after a bit.

[Derekon2s]

I ordered the whole downpipe and link pipe assembly off amazon. Looks like it comes from Lextek anyway. I paid an extra 30 bucks to get it sooner. Now I just need to decide on which pipe i'm going to use on it. This has a a connection for 51mm (2") muffler/silencer. I should have it about next friday. I'll post pics when i get it in, possibly do a youtube video post install.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[dh]

Originally Posted by Derekon2s

I ordered the whole downpipe and link pipe assembly off amazon. Looks like it comes from Lextek anyway. I paid an extra 30 bucks to get it sooner. Now I just need to decide on which pipe i'm going to use on it. This has a a connection for 51mm (2") muffler/silencer. I should have it about next friday. I'll post pics when i get it in, possibly do a youtube video post install.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very cool. I thought Lextek only sold its products on UK Amazon so this is great. A guy on Youtube who added a Powercore 4 had to add a 1.75 to 2" adapter. I wonder if this one is all 1.75" flared to 2" at the end... or is the whole pipe 2"?? Either way this gives us options.

Im tired of buying plastic top cases for $60 and having them disintegrate after a year or two so I ordered a new stainless case from Taobao. I can't believe the prices on cases and panniers here. The $85 price tag for a nice looking case seems great to me but I'm sure they are going to destroy me on shipping.

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=...207:1544382150

I ordered an auxiliary gas tank designed to be mounted on front forks with a syphon tube that feeds through the vent on a dirtbike gas cap. Since I don't have a vented gas cap or room on my front forks, I plan to somehow install on the front or side of the new case and add a new fuel line that taps into the stock line with a 1/4" tee.

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=568845580325

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by dh

2LZ no problems registering or insuring the xf in CA. Is your Q registered as a Qingqi or Qlink? Mine was initially registered as an SSR but when I moved to Nevada for a bit they changed the make to Pioneer Shandong on the registration. Oh, how hard is it to change the fork oil on the Qingqi inverted forks? I believe I saw some photos of your Q forks here at some point and mine are felling a little tired.

The Lextek exhaust system is a nice exact fit kit but yeah it's a bit pricy with the UK Shipping.I have seen some people using a Powercore 4
on these bikes and they sound pretty cool.

Sorry dh, just saw this.
Mine is registered as a QLink here in CA. Of course, it's made by Qingqi as yours is also.
The forks are cake. I just dropped mine out, flipped them over and drained the fluid into a measuring cup. They were too squishy for my fat ass so I added I think 10(?) extra cc's and that really helped.

I did the FMF Turbine Core 2 on Q and it really helped with the power band.....but it was a little loud for my taste. The upside is it's around 100.00 and bolts right on. Then I wanted something a little quieter so I got this cheap Amazon exhaust, used the FMF mid-piupe and an exhaust adapter and I'm extremely happy with it. The exhaust tone isn't as sharp and it really helped the midrange. I have the a 200cc DR motor though, not the TU 250 motor.

[Derekon2s]

DH, It looks like it's probably 1.75" and flares to 2" (51mm) to accommodate a 2" inlet on the exhaust. I'm not sure what the stock pipe size is? I should have measured, but hopefully it's a big bigger than stock.

This looks like what you have: https://www.amazon.com/Exhaust-Remov...2%3A2661618011

I see those hooks you can put on the link pipe so you can use springs, but i'm not really setup to weld stainless steel to get those on my link pipe. So i guess I'd have to use a clamp probably. I am trying to find something that's more understated than carbon fiber and still be able to get it on Prime shipping.

This one is cool too: https://www.amazon.com/Soosee-Stainl...2%3A2661618011

I donno, I may have to cut those hooks off on the pipe side and just clamp it anyway. I really liked this one, but I wouldn't have until June sometime.

https://www.amazon.com/JFG-RACING-Un...661618011&th=1

I can't decide. lol https://www.amazon.com/Annpee-Motorc...2%3A2661618011

Edit: I said to hell with it and ordered the double outlet one last night. So hopefully by the end of next week i'll have my bike titled/registered and with a new exhaust on it. I'd really like to figure out what else i can do to bump the HP of that engine up. There has to be a more aggressive camshaft and/or decking the head/thinner headgasket. But we'll see how she does when it's broken in. I just plan on enjoying riding it around town and on trails for awhile.

[Derekon2s]

So, I got the lextek piping mocked up. I took some measurements while i was at it. Overall, I'd say the diameter isn't that much better, but the biggest differences are 1. the weight - the lextek stainless steel exhaust probably weighs half of the stock exhaust and the stock muffler is heavy af! 2. The biggest restriction is the internal weld at the header pipe where it connects to the exhaust port. The overall inside diameter of the pipe isn't that much larger, but i've spent the money, so you don't have to. lol

[Derekon2s]

Here's some more pics:



The fit and finish of these Lextek pipes is pretty good. I'll probably be getting their system for my FZ09. Save some weight, much better header pipe (of course you could die-grind the weld on the stock one), Slightly better flow, better looks. I'm getting the link pipe and the link pipe adapter to the muffler welded and getting the air injection piece on the header cut and welded also. Unfortunately I'm not setup to weld stainless. We'll see how it sounds when i get it done.

[Weldangrind]

Do you have a MIG welder? If so, you're a bottle of tri-mix and a roll of SS wire away from welding stainless.

[Derekon2s]

I do have a Lincoln 110v Mig - but i figured by the time i bought a bottle and wire - I might as well just pay someone to do it for me. lol I don't have a need to weld stainless often at all. in fact, this is the first time.

[Weldangrind]

It became like an addiction for me. Especially when I realized I could grind down the welds with a non-ferrous grinder and polish the stainless. That's what prompted me to buy a polisher.

[JerryHawk250]

Nice work on the exhaust welds. Wow, the stock exhaust was a little restricted wasn't it? lol

[Derekon2s]

Weldandgrind,

How is it to weld stainless once you have the wire and tri-mix, compared to regular steel? Does it weld the same? I'm already annoyed at the thought of swapping out wire and gas. lol

[Weldangrind]

It's close enough to the same. You have to adjust voltage and wire speed a bit, although your Lincoln probably has a chart to guide you. Tri-mix produces a black, sooty weld, but it's easy to brush off. Just remember to use a SS wire brush.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

It's close enough to the same. You have to adjust voltage and wire speed a bit, although your Lincoln probably has a chart to guide you. Tri-mix produces a black, sooty weld, but it's easy to brush off. Just remember to use a SS wire brush.

90% of my welding experience (Both Tig and Mig) has been with stainless and aluminum. Pure Argon will create a much cleaner weld, but the weld bead will be very proud of the joint (high bead structure). The Helium in Tri-mix helps to actually flatten the bead out.

Stainless steel's higher melting point and thermal stability means it generally needs increased voltage. Occasionally you have to tinker with the wire speed a little bit, but that really comes down to the thickness of the material. Since stainless wire is much stiffer than standard welding wire, make sure the lead cable is as straight as possible. This will ensure a more consistent wire feed speed.

For open weld joints (but welds, tubing welds, etc,) the best thing you can do is back-fill the sectionb being welded with said shielding gas. This will prevent sugaring of the weld joint (black crystalline oxidation) and result in a stronger weld joint. It's not entirely necessary to do this, but just thought I would mention it.

Last tip, use a wire brush on the joints to clean off any potential coatings. Likely not an issue with said exhaust, but many stainless steels tend to come with some sort of coating or residue on them that can really mess up a weld.