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Old 08-07-2016, 07:44 PM   #1
jerickw   jerickw is offline
 
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hill climb help

hello everyone ive been trying to do more challenging hills on my cg200 with a swapped zongshen 250 motor in it. its doing well for the most part and most of the issues are probably that i just need more practice. but can anyone give me any advice to help with this or good bike ajustments to make it easier to get up some of the looser/steeper hills. currently in second gear with a 17 tooth sprocket on about a 35/45 degree hill i get about halfway before i lose power and stall or wheelie the bike and flip down the hill. im sure this has more to do with my posture and clutch control but not to sure im new to the whole hill climbing


 
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:44 PM   #2
jerickw   jerickw is offline
 
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and im an idiot an just noticed this should be in the riding forum im sorry didnt mean to put it in this one


 
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:41 PM   #3
Bruce's   Bruce's is offline
 
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You have to be up on your feet bent over towards the front of your bike ,adjust your body position to match the traction you have and remember it changes sometimes so you don't just stay in one position .Hit the bottom with all the speed you can handle ,be repaired to gear down but avoid it if you can until you are comfortable with it as you can screw yourself if you blow a shift or mistime that shift and lose foreword momentum ,and be prepared for the bike to loop out if you can manage to keep the revs up and find traction .


 
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:05 PM   #4
jerickw   jerickw is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Bruce's View Post
You have to be up on your feet bent over towards the front of your bike ,adjust your body position to match the traction you have and remember it changes sometimes so you don't just stay in one position .Hit the bottom with all the speed you can handle ,be repaired to gear down but avoid it if you can until you are comfortable with it as you can screw yourself if you blow a shift or mistime that shift and lose foreword momentum ,and be prepared for the bike to loop out if you can manage to keep the revs up and find traction .
Thank you so much for the info also watch a few videos on position and clutch/throttle control so I'm going to go ahead and try again tomorrow now that I fixed my clutch


 
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:50 AM   #5
thaiguzzi   thaiguzzi is offline
 
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Watch some trials videos. There is a reason why all the best extreme enduro riders aka Jarvis etc come from a trials background.
Before you can go fast, you have to learn to go slow.
Balance, posture and body positioning is everything. Clutch and throttle control come next.
Off road riding, especially gnarly difficult stuff, is mostly done standing up on the pegs.
Try a hill climb in the correct gear, without having to shift halfway up the hill.


 
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:47 AM   #6
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thaiguzzi View Post
Watch some trials videos. There is a reason why all the best extreme enduro riders aka Jarvis etc come from a trials background.
Before you can go fast, you have to learn to go slow.
Balance, posture and body positioning is everything. Clutch and throttle control come next.
Off road riding, especially gnarly difficult stuff, is mostly done standing up on the pegs.
Try a hill climb in the correct gear, without having to shift halfway up the hill.
I agree. There is a youtube video on pre-75 trials. Pre 1975 trials bikes are all what today are called dual-sports. They are using virtually the same equipment you are riding. You will also see in that video what happens when you make a mistake climbing a hill.


 
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:13 PM   #7
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerickw View Post
and im an idiot an just noticed this should be in the riding forum im sorry didnt mean to put it in this one
No worries, your thread is fine here.
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:22 PM   #8
jimwildman   jimwildman is offline
 
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learning how to fail a hill safely is important as well, so not wasted time at all.

1 simple rule is shift your weight back on the seat when you need more traction and forward when you have too much.

and practice, alot.


 
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:26 PM   #9
GeneralTso   GeneralTso is offline
 
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And try and keep the front wheel lower than your chin! Ha ha
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:27 PM   #10
jerickw   jerickw is offline
 
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Originally Posted by jimwildman View Post
learning how to fail a hill safely is important as well, so not wasted time at all.

1 simple rule is shift your weight back on the seat when you need more traction and forward when you have too much.

and practice, alot.
yeah im having fun learning to bail properly lol one of my first trys a few weeks ago ended with the bike landing on my head, thankfully i always wear a helmet it has the scars to show on it


 
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Old 08-09-2016, 02:31 AM   #11
Krasi_BG   Krasi_BG is offline
 
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1. Momentum
2. Feather the clutch
2. If you don't make it, turn around and give it another try with more inertia. Don't try to get going again half way on the hill as it's way too tricky and tiresome (usually!).


 
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Old 08-09-2016, 05:23 AM   #12
pete   pete is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter View Post
I agree. There is a youtube video on pre-75 trials. Pre 1975 trials bikes are all what today are called dual-sports. They are using virtually the same equipment you are riding.
maybe at a quick glance...
yer can't ride a trials bike to fast for long... the steering geomitrey will
have yer on the ground pretty quickly...
the suspension has very little damping & is sprung very soft..
foot pegs are quite high and back ferther than a trail/dirt bike..
motor are very fast responding at low revs with not much top end power
all bottom end..

A trials bike climbs a little diffrently... with so much bottom end torque
& super soft trials tyres run at 4/5psi.. they just have so much grip , you can use speed or
slow right down... they seem to find tracton where a trail/dirt bike won't..

as yer can see in my sig I have a 77 Montesa Cota 348 that I ride in
classic/vintage trials events..
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Last edited by pete; 08-09-2016 at 06:20 AM.
 
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:40 AM   #13
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete View Post
maybe at a quick glance...
yer can't ride a trials bike to fast for long... the steering geomitrey will
have yer on the ground pretty quickly...
the suspension has very little damping & is sprung very soft..
foot pegs are quite high and back ferther than a trail/dirt bike..
motor are very fast responding at low revs with not much top end power
all bottom end..

A trials bike climbs a little diffrently... with so much bottom end torque
& super soft trials tyres run at 4/5psi.. they just have so much grip , you can use speed or
slow right down... they seem to find tracton where a trail/dirt bike won't..

as yer can see in my sig I have a 77 Montesa Cota 348 that I ride in
classic/vintage trials events..
Yes, that is so. My error, pre 65 bikes used/modified for trial use are more like dual sports. And they moved their own foot-pegs back. From what I've learned about Hawks on this forum, if you run the forks with the oil that came with the bike, you don't have to worry about them being too stiff!


 
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Old 08-10-2016, 12:16 AM   #14
thaiguzzi   thaiguzzi is offline
 
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Indeed. Even 70's twinshock Spanish (Bultaco, Montesa, Ossa) and Japanese (mainly Honda and Yamaha) trials bikes have the footrests in a position which is not comfortable for sitting down for anything longer than a short 15 minute rest. A 2 stroke of that period still weighed at least 50-60 lbs less than a street legal trail bike of that era too.


 
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:58 AM   #15
hertz9753   hertz9753 is offline
 
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Does the OP want to get to the top of the hill riding straight up or just get to the top of the hill?
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