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Old 04-28-2016, 06:11 PM   #1
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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Valve cover clearance question

Valve cover clearrence?
I don't have clearance to get the valve cover off, it's hitting top frame can't move the top in any way to get it off. Do I have to drop the motor?
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:49 PM   #2
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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Can you turn it slightly 'clockwise'? I know this is the "Storm" model in this video but it has a tight space and is shown removing the cover around the 3 min mark

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Old 04-28-2016, 06:56 PM   #3
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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Try turning the crankshaft so the rockers move into a different position.


 
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:20 PM   #4
mq1991   mq1991 is offline
 
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Mine required a little fanagaling, but it came out without much trouble. Try pulling it out towards you and rotating it down, it should come out. Ill try and get a video of mine tonight.


 
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Old 04-28-2016, 10:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudflap View Post
Try turning the crankshaft so the rockers move into a different position.
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Originally Posted by mq1991 View Post
Mine required a little fanagaling, but it came out without much trouble. Try pulling it out towards you and rotating it down, it should come out. Ill try and get a video of mine tonight.
I agree with these two gentlemen. Turn the crankshaft to TDC on the compression stroke; this will release any pressure from the camshaft on the valve rockers. Then pull and rotate the valve cover until it comes free.
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:09 AM   #6
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Yes, I didn't think of this, I was going fast and needed to attend a vfd meeting.

Tomorrow, will turn the crank and twist and turn it every which way to Sunday to get it off. There must be a solution since this is a common procedure needed. It would be crazy if they designed it this way. yes, will pull the plug first!
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Old 04-29-2016, 05:37 AM   #7
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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on my roketa to drop the valve cover, i have to pull the front bolts out of the engeine from the frame so the whole assembly can drop down an inch to get it out....


 
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:59 AM   #8
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Do you recommend doing this before you start you hawk for the first time? Is it OK to do on a cold engine?


 
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:06 AM   #9
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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Do you recommend doing this before you start you hawk for the first time? Is it OK to do on a cold engine?
Yes and yes.

Check and set the valves before you start/ride the bike for the first time.

Adjusting the valves on a "Cold" engine, I let the engine 'cool' overnight and set them in the morning when it's nice and cold
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:14 AM   #10
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Man....I've never seen a Hondoid so tight. My X-Moto is virtually identical to your bike and I can wiggle it out of there. I'd drop the front bolt, as suggested and let it drop down a little. This will be a good excuse to check every motor mount for tightness when you're done.
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Old 04-29-2016, 11:51 AM   #11
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Man....I've never seen a Hondoid so tight. My X-Moto is virtually identical to your bike and I can wiggle it out of there. I'd drop the front bolt, as suggested and let it drop down a little. This will be a good excuse to check every motor mount for tightness when you're done.
Will get to this later today hopefully here is another pic of the entire motor on this Bashan blaze. I am just posting this because this may be a bike to stray from is this is a real maintenance issue.
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Old 04-29-2016, 12:41 PM   #12
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Didn't realize you had a balance shaft motor! Cool!
I took my plastic louvers off and tossed them on the shelf, years ago. The little rods never did fit correctly with the tank shroud and buzzed like hell. If yours fit, may as well keep 'em. I wasn't sure if they were for aesthetics more than any actual cooling value.
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Old 04-29-2016, 03:38 PM   #13
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Didn't realize you had a balance shaft motor! Cool!
I took my plastic louvers off and tossed them on the shelf, years ago. The little rods never did fit correctly with the tank shroud and buzzed like hell. If yours fit, may as well keep 'em. I wasn't sure if they were for aesthetics more than any actual cooling value.
Balancer or not, pising me off will have to drop motor for cover removal. Then do will grind everything to make clearence. What a pain

Also the clip mod did not have notches . If you fly out tonight sacramento to San Antonio flight will pick up at airport haha only 5hrs flight

Hopefully will have help here in a bit
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Old 04-29-2016, 04:11 PM   #14
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBike View Post
Balancer or not, pising me off will have to drop motor for cover removal. Then do will grind everything to make clearence. What a pain

Also the clip mod did not have notches . If you fly out tonight sacramento to San Antonio flight will pick up at airport haha only 5hrs flight

Hopefully will have help here in a bit
Dropping a bolt shouldn't be to bad. Lord knows some are probably loose anyway! ;-)

If your needle has no extra notches, just put a small washer or two under the c-clip to shim up the needle a tad. That works also.
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Old 04-30-2016, 02:30 PM   #15
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2LZ View Post
Dropping a bolt shouldn't be to bad. Lord knows some are probably loose anyway! ;-)

If your needle has no extra notches, just put a small washer or two under the c-clip to shim up the needle a tad. That works also.
So far , removed all mount bolts except the bottom xmember were the pegs are mounted to pivot motor from. Loosen rear wheel for drive chain slack. Remove header bolts for wiggle. Remove skid plate bolts . Motorpivotforward and down 1.5 inch from top motor mount position to finally remove cover. Can't grind cover or frame enough to allow clearance for next time either.

Would have spend extra couple hundred bucks on the Bashar storm instead of this Bashar blaze hado I know this situation existed on this model. Total with rebuild, probably 3 to 4 hrs being a greenhorn

Don't buy Bashan blaze unless you love doing this everytime, can't see anyway around it
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