Advice on mods for ATA-250D

[Rule308]

It's supposed to arrive today and I've got parts on order but wanted advice on the must have mods. This will be used for hunting in Llano, Cherokee, Valley Spring area of Texas with very rocky terrain and hills.

I've got this on order, planned or waiting:

NGK D8EA plug and gap tool
Soko chain tensioner
chain alignment tool
RKH428 chain - can't recall length
Chain breaker tool
428-12T sprocket
front sprocket retainer plate to grind ends off for clearance
socket head cap screws 12.9 grade (unsure of size but will be for front sprocket clearance with chain links)
fuel petcock shutoff valve
tygon fuel hose
a good fuel filter
Uni 2 stage filter with oil
a set of pilot and main jets when I confirm which brand used
Motul RBF600 brake fluid to flush out the old crap
Valvaline ATV oil
A tool kit cause I'll likely need it
Locktite blue
Chain lube
Some sort of aftermarket springs and shocks to replace the pogo sticks

Can you recommend anything? Sizes. Brands.

I plan to measure the shocks and get all dimensions then look up Honda, Yamaha etc brands of models and see what I can find for a similar size and weight bike or maybe for a 150cc version since this bike appears to be pretty lightweight compared to the good Jap versions made heavy duty. Does anyone already know what other models of ATVs use the same size front and rear shocks?

I'm thinking of trying some cheap nitrogen/air shocks that I can deflate and lower to get in the back of a suburban with bars folded down and light disconnected, then once on deer lease pump up with air to get ride height etc. Too bad those Fox Floats cost almost the price of the bike.

[Rule308]

Oh yeah, some sort of good AGM battery
and solar battery charger

Does anyone know of a specific brand model of 6-pin CDI that is known to give better performance and the correct timing for this bike?

[Rule308]

I guess I should include duct tape, cable ties, bailing wire, WD-40, Starting fluid, gas can and a trailer to haul it all in. joke.

[Adjuster]

The 250D brand new model is getting excellent reviews and a reputation of being bullet proof and at a great price. Doesn't hurt to improve it but you may want to hold off on purchasing all the mods until you give it a good test ride.


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[Tonyrader]

REMEMBER there is no replacement for displacement..

I have a set of 250e the liquid cooled ones. THEY are 250cc atv, not a 200cc atv like the 250d... they are cool but not like my Yamaha 450 wolverine, but I bought mine to trail ride with my kids, good cheap fun..

I have rode mine a little, and I think a 12 tooth sprocket, mine comes stock with a 428 chain, but better sprockets and adjusters will come in soon.. but I will break these first.
a CV carb would make a world of difference on these motors.. it would make more power, better starting. smother idle, and smoother acceleration..

I am not sure about ANY of these CDI boxes. I would like to see some curve data my self.
Or a 3* key way would be just as good. and I can make that my self..

The things that are first on my list,,
FIX LOOSE SEAT, doesn't lock in to front mount..
stronger better chain adjusters, ( make my own)
LED LIGHTING.

[Mudflap]

I've tried several CDIs on my ata250d and the only one I found that would work is the one sold by the parts outfit on Taotao's website.

[Rule308]

I must admit I'm impressed with what I got for $999 plus $199 for shipping plus $199 surprise for tax title license and metal plates they said were mandatory for Texas.

The crate said Rhino 250 on it which was not expected. But it's not like the Rhino's I see online. It does have a plastic cover over the front push bar that is the same as the ATA-250D underneath. But it looks like the 250D otherwise, no covers over the racks. No center light in front of handle pars, just the two usual ones. I had one "driverside" bolt not fit into the front rack from below. The support from underneath didn't line up with the plastic fender and the rack above.

Hopefully they supplied real hydraulic dampeners "shocks" with realistic spring rates. I've heard of the pogo sticks they were supplying. If it turns out bumpy and hard riding I'll be looking at some "air shocks" that can be tuned.

Air gauge supplied was 10-120? psi for tires that should be 5-8 psi or so? I was looking at the bar side and thought it was 1-8 psi, then realized the bar scale and useless gauge.

None of the schraeder valves were screwed in fully to the wheels and had to make a visit to AutoZone to get a schrader valve wrench. However you spell it.

[Tonyrader]

they are what they are. I bought my two 250E from a dealer, tax title and prepped for 1100.00 each out the door. And On the Web in a box shipped to your door they are 1375.00..But I made the deal with him and he thought all the 250cc taotao's where the same. these MSRP at dealer are $1975 and the other 250s are $1400 around here. at the dealers ready (suppose to be )to ride.
These are cool little machines, but you have to understand that these are no engineered with the end user in mind, By your shopping list you have some idea.
But little things will leave you stranded or at least mad. like the chain adjusters not being 90* to the axles, you have to put one or two washers in between them and the axle to square them up. Like your bolt hole not lining up. Look to figure out why, it could lead to another issue.
And you said you where going to use them in "Texas with very rocky terrain and hills" .
you must take your time and find the issues to make these strong little machines.

If you take your time and remember what your working with these are cool and fun.
if you want a hunting machine that you can kick its butt, drowned it in mud,drag a big animal, then I would use my Yamaha..
We Bought a 400cc jancie made by Yamaha in china, paid 4000.00 for it 4X4 and powerful. it was a awesome quad until it drowned one day. My Yamaha drowned and this one went past. but WHEN IT DROWNED. IT NEVER RECOVERED. the wiring shorted out, took out voltage regulator. and CDI.. BLA BLA BLA... It was junk after that day...
My Yamaha dried out and I power washed it. you never even knew.
this is my opionion. but those are facts, it was a 4000.00 mistake pushing that quad to far..

My 8 yr old twins have rode 110cc taotaos since they where three, they ran great, they needed fixed once and a while but had thousands of hrs on them. that's why I bought them new 125cc quads this year, and me and mom 250cc quads to play with them.. But they are NOT going across the creek or through the mud, I have a quad for that.

[Rule308]

I can't seem to locate an AGM battery that has equal to or more than 9AH that will fit in the battery hole. Close, but so far they are all too big in one dimension or too small with a low rating. A couple sites showed battery options that are for the 250D but when I look at specs and dimensions they won't fit the battery compartment without cutting plastic. Will stick with stock for now but keeping eye peeled for an AGM? Anyone got one that has the right size and ratings?

What front bearings are best to buy?
And bushings for front and rear swing arm?

I want to be prepared ahead of time.

[Adjuster]

http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/


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[Rule308]

Looks like this model will give me the AGM option and 10 extra CCA.
http://www.batterystuff.com/powerspo...ies/sYT9A.html

Comes charged, as most AGMs seem to.

[Rule308]

Does anyone keep a list of what other name brand ATVs share certain parts? So that maybe like a Yamaha Banshee shares same "X" part or Honda Rhino uses same size "Y" part?

Looking specifically right now for shock commonality with other brands. I figure the ATA-250D is probably lighter weight than a typical Japanese ATV of same displacement (but ATA-250D uses too stiff of a spring) and I bet the shocks from a 100cc, 150cc or 200cc in a name brand ATV would have about the same spring rates as what I'd need so looking for aftermarket shocks for that size ATV to soften up the ride.

Is there a resident expert on the subject?

[Tonyrader]

Originally Posted by Rule308

Looks like this model will give me the AGM option and 10 extra CCA.
http://www.batterystuff.com/powerspo...ies/sYT9A.html

Comes charged, as most AGMs seem to.

Are you going to up size the wires from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter?
I am not sure on that, I was thinking about better battery my self. I worry about the battery connections. I was think about at least going to a better connector.
It looks flimsy, but the ones on my kids 110cc taotao lasted 5 years no problems.
I am interested in thoughts on this.

[Mudflap]

I upsized the battery and starter cables on mine simply because the originals were pretty small. It didn't make a noticeable difference.

The previous owner replaced the stock battery with a Yuasa of the same specs which seem to be adequate. Jumping the starter directly from a large car battery didn't make the starter spin any faster.

Also, I found the distance between the seat and foot rests to be uncomfortable for my long legs so I moved the foot rests to the same height as the lower frame tubes. Had to remove the black plastic parts and modify the rear brake peddle and shifter. Much better now!

[Rule308]

Originally Posted by Tonyrader

Are you going to up size the wires from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter?
I am not sure on that, I was thinking about better battery my self. I worry about the battery connections. I was think about at least going to a better connector.
It looks flimsy, but the ones on my kids 110cc taotao lasted 5 years no problems.
I am interested in thoughts on this.

Wanted AGM because they don't fail like regular lead acid because the plates are better supported and for rough riding. I've seen plates break off of regular batteries