Ssr xf250

[dh]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E...b_b_asin_title

K&N filters....

[dh]

Originally Posted by culcune

California's CARB just granted Shandong Pioneer a CARB certificate (my guess is a renewal) for the XF250 on 5/13/19

https://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/onroad..._249_1d0_h.pdf

Very cool to see this. The scrambler is on that paperwork as well as the Snake Eyes. My local dealer told me he has had people ask for the snake eyes but SSR may have already discontinued it. When I did see them for sale dealers were practically giving them away.

[Derekon2s]

I was working on the bike this evening. Lots of noise coming from the stock chain, which is a known POS. A few of the links seemed fused together,so they weren't moving properly. Fortunately I had a brand new RK chain ready to put on, so I started that. I've Never done it before, so taking my time. Do any of you guys know the torque specs of the rear axle? I can't find the info and I didn't see it in the manual. Thanks for the oil filter link, as well as the info on the jets!

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by culcune

California's CARB just granted Shandong Pioneer a CARB certificate (my guess is a renewal) for the XF250 on 5/13/19

https://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/onroad..._249_1d0_h.pdf

AWESOME! Even the snake eyes! Ok culcune....is there any way to decipher on that CARB sheet if it's going to be either off road only or legally streetable?
Never mind! I just saw "certified as described below for on road motorcycles". This is great!

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by dh

Very cool to see this. My local dealer told me he has had people ask for the snake eyes but SSR may have already discontinued it. .

Bogus. That was a cool bike.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Derekon2s

I was working on the bike this evening. Lots of noise coming from the stock chain, which is a known POS. A few of the links seemed fused together,so they weren't moving properly. Fortunately I had a brand new RK chain ready to put on, so I started that. I've Never done it before, so taking my time. Do any of you guys know the torque specs of the rear axle? I can't find the info and I didn't see it in the manual. Thanks for the oil filter link, as well as the info on the jets!

I have the same swingarm on Q and if I remember right, I think it was 45 pounds??? It's not a lot because of the self-locking nut. Not sure if the XF250 has the same nut.

[Derekon2s]

Did some research in regards to the XF250 oil filters:

This is the one I got off ebay before, but they don't list the part number:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17183139132...MakeTrack=true

Everything I've found, and just going off of part number, 136, a KN136, cross references to a Mahle OX408. I couldn't find a direct KN cross reference. But Hiflo HF136 should be the same as a KN136. I cross referenced OX408 and it brought up KN136 and HF136. So:

https://www.amazon.com/Hiflofiltro-H...J8APN70F9A1ZB1

So, 6 bucks a piece, and prime eligible. BOOM. I know you don't need anymore, but if someone else does. lol I'm gonna order a few now. I've also heard good things about the Amazon Basics oil. I run Rotella 15w40 in this bike and my DRZ400SM.

[Derekon2s]

I know the nut side of the axle is a 19mm, the bolt side is a 17mm, i think.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Derekon2s

I know the nut side of the axle is a 19mm, the bolt side is a 17mm, i think.

This is when I wish I was home to check. Hell. It's Friday. i wish I was home anyway!

[2LZ]

Built in USA??????????

https://www.dirtrider.com/2018-ssr-m...s-xf250-street

https://www.cycleworld.com/2018-ssr-...250-dual-sport

Either something has changed or two, very reputable mags are woefully incorrect.

[dh]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

This is when I wish I was home to check. Hell. It's Friday. i wish I was home anyway!

17mm and 19mm are correct. The tensioner nuts are 12 and 14mm I believe.

45 lbs sounds about right, but I can't confirm right now either. I got used to doing it by feel now using 7" closed end wrenches that I can fit in the tool kit.

Chain slack shout be 3/4" I believe but again I don't have my service manual handy. I have nearly killed another chain after experimenting with a silicone chain/cable spray. Might be my fault since I didn't do the best job of cleaning the chain when I made the switch from gear oil to the silicone. I guess the standard lubes and the silicone don't mix well.

[dh]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Built in USA??????????

https://www.dirtrider.com/2018-ssr-m...s-xf250-street

https://www.cycleworld.com/2018-ssr-...250-dual-sport

Either something has changed or two, very reputable mags are woefully incorrect.

I have seen those articles before and thought they were a little off as well. At least they didn't really trash it or praise it too much since they didn't actually ride the bike. Leave it to Consumer Reports to do that. I stopped taking them seriously when they rated a GMC SUV (Envoy 4x4 4200 Vortec i6) I purchased as "unacceptable" when they clearly hadn't even test driven it yet. That vehicle ended up being one of the best I've ever owned. Last year I glanced at their car issue and it appears Honda is no longer paying them off... they got trashed by Consumer Reports. It used to be that anything made by Honda or Toyota was automatically one of their recommended vehicles.

[Derekon2s]

Yea, i couldn't find anything that wasn't super vague on either site. And the Atlas engines in those trailblazers are pretty badass. I've been thinking about swapping one into my trans am.

From the manual:

After running for every 1,000
km, adjust the tightness of driving
chain so that the movable distance
between the two chain sprockets is
kept within 25 --- 35mm.
1. Support the motorcycle with the
side stand.
2. Loosen the nut of rear wheel
shaft.
3. Screw out the locking nut.
4. The chain can be adjusted by
turning the adjusting bolt
clockwise and counterclockwise.
Note: When a new chain is replaced,
the two chain sprockets must be
checked. If necessary, make
replacement.
CAUTION
The opening end of chain
joint should be installed in reverse
to the turning direction.
20-30mm

So is it 25-35 or 20-30 mm? lol

[dh]

So I got the bike back from the shop for a fork rebuild re-do. There was no leaking until AFTER the forks were rebuilt in the fall and the bike sat for most of the winter. No warranty on the work as I supplied the replacement seals from Taobao and leak went unnoticed for several months. The shop did comp the new oil and seals this time. We went with 10w oil this time(vs. 5w) and legit fork seals this go-around and no leaks thus far. I will post the seal part # the shop went with for anyone who needs to service their qlink or ssr XF/XP USD forks. Still wish I had the time to figure this out on my own but just didn't have the time. The ride is a little bumpier with the heavier oil but a lot less nose diving during braking.

I also had the shop check on the clutch as I experienced some slipping on a recent ride, even after I had adjusted the cable to the best of my ability. I really though the clutch was toast as I have really abused it.... I beat up the clutch last year while limping it through LA with a frayed clutch cable. I also ignorantly used synthetic automotive oil and super cheap Mobile Delvac for the first few years I owned this bike and I'm sure that wasn't good for the clutch either (Now I run Rotella conventional T???). The TU250x owners forum has a lot of info on this topic with lots of complaints that the clutch doesn't engage until the lever is nearly all the way out, making them think the clutch is worn out. I have the same experience with the XF and keep reading that this is normal. The shop managed to adjust the cable a little better and said the clutch is fine though.

[Megadan]

Release point has way more to do with the lever arm on the engine more than it does the clutch pack. If you can put it under high load in a high gear and it doesn't slip, the clutch is ok.