skid plate - uh oh

woodlandsprite · 05-21-2016, 03:07 PM

So. While I was doing my oil change today, I took the skidplate off and while doing so, the front mounting bracket also came off

here you can see where it was mounted to the bike:

I'm thinking my options are:
1) Leave the skidplate off
2) Find someone to weld the bracket back on
3) Grind off the other brakets and install the beefier skid plate

*sigh*

as for the oil change, it went smoothly, though with the center stand deployed, I could not get my oil pan exactly under the drain hole so I got oil all over the floor *again*.

The oil looked dark to me, and there was a fair bit of sludgy stuff on the drain plug, but didn't notice any sizeable chunks. Oil strainers looked pretty much clean of debris, there may have been one or two bits of not sure what on the oil strainers, but I was unable to identify what they were. This was only my 2nd oil change at 1000 miles but I'm hoping to churn through the next 1000 miles much faster now that I am more comfortable riding.

CSaddict · 05-21-2016, 03:14 PM

Replace it with the CSC aluminum skid. Half the work is already done! Click on my blog for install pics.

detours · 05-21-2016, 05:02 PM

I would just leave it off unless you intend to take it on any dirt. The aluminum skid plate is very nice and keeps the front of the engine clean, but it's overkill for most riders.

SpudRider · 05-21-2016, 05:53 PM

If you want to achieve clean oil changes, put the bike on the side stand, and don't get the CSC skid pate.

BlackBike · 05-21-2016, 06:27 PM

Rx3 'ers, what is going on with the plate. Could a large access hole be drilled to accommodate a socket and also to allow the flow of oil through this hole . Thinking of , say a
1 1/4" to 1 1/2 " hole saw. I can't see what's going on when its mounted unless there is a frame causing issue, so just an idea.

BlackBike · 05-21-2016, 06:29 PM

Oh, OK I see the drain plug is not straight down but looking off to the side, got ya.

woodlandsprite · 05-21-2016, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpudRider

If you want to achieve clean oil changes, put the bike on the side stand, and don't get the CSC skid pate.

Ha! I think you mentioned the side stand last time also. Will note this in the maintenance sheet so I don't forget next time

woodlandsprite · 05-21-2016, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by detours

I would just leave it off unless you intend to take it on any dirt. The aluminum skid plate is very nice and keeps the front of the engine clean, but it's overkill for most riders.

I will probably leave it off for now but I intend to take the bike on dirt eventually

SpudRider · 05-21-2016, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Rx3 'ers, what is going on with the plate. Could a large access hole be drilled to accommodate a socket and also to allow the flow of oil through this hole . Thinking of , say a
1 1/4" to 1 1/2 " hole saw. I can't see what's going on when its mounted unless there is a frame causing issue, so just an idea.

The messy oil changes are not caused by the oil flowing from the magnetic drain plug. The mess arises from the oil flowing out of the two oil screen plugs, and the oil filter cap.

woodlandsprite · 05-21-2016, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpudRider

The messy oil changes are not caused by the oil flowing from the magnetic drain plug. The mess arises from the oil flowing out of the two oil screen plugs, and the oil filter cap.

in my case it was from the oil flowing from the magetic drain plug. the oil pan bumped into my center stand and the flow hit the edge of the pan. If I had shim'd the pan so it could get further under the drain hole, everything would have been fine. As soon as I saw it hit the edge I had some delay while I sat there astounded I munged it up again, but then grabbed the pan and lifted it up and it was able to catch the flow without hitting the lip. Hopefully that makes sense - it's because the centerstand slopes towards the front of the bike when deployed.

also Spud is correct that the oil screen plugs and oil filter cap will dump right into your skid plate

pyoungbl · 05-21-2016, 09:02 PM

Woodlandsprite, if you get the CSC bash plate I'd recommend two mods before you mount it. The plate has a really tight fit on the upper right and along the right side. I'd cut some of that off:

You could even be more aggressive than my marks.
The second suggestion is on the left side I'd cut a hole to give access to the plug you need to remove in order to find TDC so you can set the valve lash. I discovered this after this photo was taken and I have yet to make this mod because my mill is dedicated to another project.

As for taking the plate off to change oil...I did not. The strainers will drop oil onto the plate and you will have a bit of mess but IMHO that's not a big deal. I installed a quick drain valve so dropping the oil is fairly painless and clean.

If you go this route make sure you get the 16mm version.

rtking · 05-21-2016, 09:36 PM

WoodlandSprite, an easy way to avoid getting oil all over the floor is to use some aluminum foil. Make the aluminum foil into a "V" channel so it will reach before the drain plug and into your oil collection container. (I usually fold Aluminum foil over twice so I have 4 layers... it's thicker/stronger that way.) Seems to work pretty well for me with a minimum of mess. My wife isn't so keen as I used up the last of the aluminum foil the last oil change.

As for the skid plate... I'd leave it off for now until you can take your bike to a muffler shop. They should be able to tack weld that back on for a few bucks - maybe $5-10, if that. Or you could use a couple of stainless steel radiator clamps to hold the bracket in its original position as a temporary fix and then re-attach the skid plate.

Juanro · 05-21-2016, 10:34 PM

My skid plate front mount broke twice. First it died of natural causes, as yours. I welded it ( a crappy job, I admit ) and the going over a trail I hit a large rock and it broke again. I fixed it on the spot using a rubber piece (from an old inner tube) and some zip ties. Results we're better than expected, in fact I noted a reduction in noise, some metallic tingle was now gone, so I leave it like that.

woodlandsprite · 05-21-2016, 11:11 PM

Rtking thanks for both tips. As I was watching it spill on the floor, my brain was trying to decide if I had anything nearby to redirect the flow

also thanks for the radiator clamp suggestion and the direction towards a muffler shop. I had no idea where to potentially take it for a re-weld.

Juanro: I had contemplated zip ties also. Do you have a photo of your repair?

Pyoungbl: thank you for your suggestions! I haven't access to a grinder, but if I decide to upgrade in the future, I will be sure to reference your suggestions!

SpudRider · 05-22-2016, 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pyoungbl

...The second suggestion is on the left side I'd cut a hole to give access to the plug you need to remove in order to find TDC so you can set the valve lash. I discovered this after this photo was taken and I have yet to make this mod because my mill is dedicated to another project...

The easiest and most foolproof method of setting the piston at TDC on the compression stroke is to align the marks on the cam sprocket with the inspection holes on the rocker cover.

Using this method you don't need to lie on the ground, and you are always assured of having the piston set for the compression stroke.

I never use the inspection hole on the stator cover any more.

If you use the inspection ports on the rocker cover, you don't need to modify the CSC skid plate on the left side.

05-21-2016, 03:07 PM	#1
woodlandsprite Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 366	skid plate - uh oh So. While I was doing my oil change today, I took the skidplate off and while doing so, the front mounting bracket also came off here you can see where it was mounted to the bike: I'm thinking my options are: 1) Leave the skidplate off 2) Find someone to weld the bracket back on 3) Grind off the other brakets and install the beefier skid plate sigh as for the oil change, it went smoothly, though with the center stand deployed, I could not get my oil pan exactly under the drain hole so I got oil all over the floor again. The oil looked dark to me, and there was a fair bit of sludgy stuff on the drain plug, but didn't notice any sizeable chunks. Oil strainers looked pretty much clean of debris, there may have been one or two bits of not sure what on the oil strainers, but I was unable to identify what they were. This was only my 2nd oil change at 1000 miles but I'm hoping to churn through the next 1000 miles much faster now that I am more comfortable riding.
	0

05-21-2016, 03:14 PM	#2
CSaddict Join Date: Dec 2015 Posts: 200	Replace it with the CSC aluminum skid. Half the work is already done! Click on my blog for install pics. __________________ 2016 CSC RX3 Ginger Edition Check out my blog here: https://www.facebook.com/My-CSC-Zong...0302595973417/
	0

05-21-2016, 05:02 PM	#3
detours Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Arvada, CO Posts: 1,004	I would just leave it off unless you intend to take it on any dirt. The aluminum skid plate is very nice and keeps the front of the engine clean, but it's overkill for most riders. __________________ Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol
	1

05-21-2016, 05:53 PM	#4
SpudRider Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 25,054	If you want to achieve clean oil changes, put the bike on the side stand, and don't get the CSC skid pate. __________________ Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894
	0

05-21-2016, 06:27 PM	#5
BlackBike Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: George West, Texas Posts: 4,097	Rx3 'ers, what is going on with the plate. Could a large access hole be drilled to accommodate a socket and also to allow the flow of oil through this hole . Thinking of , say a 1 1/4" to 1 1/2 " hole saw. I can't see what's going on when its mounted unless there is a frame causing issue, so just an idea. __________________ ***************************************** 2015 Bashan"Blaze" BS250GY-31 (DB-07K-250) GONE 2017 Suzuki V Strom 650 XT "We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid." ~Benjamin Franklin~
	0

05-21-2016, 06:29 PM	#6
BlackBike Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: George West, Texas Posts: 4,097	Oh, OK I see the drain plug is not straight down but looking off to the side, got ya. __________________ ***************************************** 2015 Bashan"Blaze" BS250GY-31 (DB-07K-250) GONE 2017 Suzuki V Strom 650 XT "We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid." ~Benjamin Franklin~
	0

05-21-2016, 09:02 PM	#11
pyoungbl Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portsmouth, Virginia, USA Posts: 632	Woodlandsprite, if you get the CSC bash plate I'd recommend two mods before you mount it. The plate has a really tight fit on the upper right and along the right side. I'd cut some of that off: You could even be more aggressive than my marks. The second suggestion is on the left side I'd cut a hole to give access to the plug you need to remove in order to find TDC so you can set the valve lash. I discovered this after this photo was taken and I have yet to make this mod because my mill is dedicated to another project. As for taking the plate off to change oil...I did not. The strainers will drop oil onto the plate and you will have a bit of mess but IMHO that's not a big deal. I installed a quick drain valve so dropping the oil is fairly painless and clean. If you go this route make sure you get the 16mm version.
	3

05-21-2016, 09:36 PM	#12
rtking Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 410	WoodlandSprite, an easy way to avoid getting oil all over the floor is to use some aluminum foil. Make the aluminum foil into a "V" channel so it will reach before the drain plug and into your oil collection container. (I usually fold Aluminum foil over twice so I have 4 layers... it's thicker/stronger that way.) Seems to work pretty well for me with a minimum of mess. My wife isn't so keen as I used up the last of the aluminum foil the last oil change. As for the skid plate... I'd leave it off for now until you can take your bike to a muffler shop. They should be able to tack weld that back on for a few bucks - maybe $5-10, if that. Or you could use a couple of stainless steel radiator clamps to hold the bracket in its original position as a temporary fix and then re-attach the skid plate.
	2

05-21-2016, 10:34 PM	#13
Juanro Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 321	My skid plate front mount broke twice. First it died of natural causes, as yours. I welded it ( a crappy job, I admit ) and the going over a trail I hit a large rock and it broke again. I fixed it on the spot using a rubber piece (from an old inner tube) and some zip ties. Results we're better than expected, in fact I noted a reduction in noise, some metallic tingle was now gone, so I leave it like that.
	2

05-21-2016, 11:11 PM	#14
woodlandsprite Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 366	Rtking thanks for both tips. As I was watching it spill on the floor, my brain was trying to decide if I had anything nearby to redirect the flow also thanks for the radiator clamp suggestion and the direction towards a muffler shop. I had no idea where to potentially take it for a re-weld. Juanro: I had contemplated zip ties also. Do you have a photo of your repair? Pyoungbl: thank you for your suggestions! I haven't access to a grinder, but if I decide to upgrade in the future, I will be sure to reference your suggestions!
	0