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Old 05-26-2016, 03:10 PM   #1
dave92029   dave92029 is offline
 
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Rear axle bolt torque?

I brought my RX3 into a local shop to have a new rear tire installed and replace the three rear wheel bearings, this morning.

The shop mechanic mentioned that the Torque Specification of 70-80 N.M., might be too tight, because it appears to be compressing the swing arm (three threads showing).

He thought that this swing arm compression, may be a cause for the premature bearing failures. He felt that my rear wheel bearing were ok at 6300 miles, and did not replace the OEM bearings at this time.

Has anyone else noticed the same compression of the swing arm when tightening the rear axle bolt to 75 N.M. ?
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:14 PM   #2
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I don't know what 80nm "feels like" out on the trail, when I do a tube change. So I just go with "pretty snug" and I've never had problems.


 
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:27 PM   #3
dave92029   dave92029 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eco Mouse View Post
I don't know what 80nm "feels like" out on the trail, when I do a tube change. So I just go with "pretty snug" and I've never had problems.
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Old 05-26-2016, 05:29 PM   #4
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Thanks for the information!

My understanding of the rear axle torque spec was 50 ft-lbs (67 NM), not 70-80 NM. In my opinion, 80 NM would absolutely be too much.

I'm pretty sure Gerry used the full 50 ft-lbs (70 NM) when he installed my rear wheel. It stayed put even though the right side adjuster nut fell off (that one was undertorqued).
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Old 05-26-2016, 05:58 PM   #5
dave92029   dave92029 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detours View Post
Thanks for the information!

My understanding of the rear axle torque spec was 50 ft-lbs (67 NM), not 70-80 NM. In my opinion, 80 NM would absolutely be too much.

I'm pretty sure Gerry used the full 50 ft-lbs (70 NM) when he installed my rear wheel. It stayed put even though the right side adjuster nut fell off (that one was undertorqued).
My owners manual states 70-80 N.M
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:55 PM   #6
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page 8 on the cd
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Old 05-26-2016, 08:33 PM   #7
dave92029   dave92029 is offline
 
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Here is what my Owner's Manual reads. Which is most current and correct?
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:52 PM   #8
dave92029   dave92029 is offline
 
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I did a comparison of the Torque values posted by Ron in Ft Lbs to my Owner's Manual using the conversion factor of 1.3556 ft. Lbs. = 1 NM. Actually the values are very similar. The Front and rear axle nuts are the Same, 70 - 80 NM NOT 50 Ft Lbs. The Ft Lbs chart calls for 52-59 Ft Lbs ( average of 55.5 Ft Lbs Not 50 as previously mentioned.

The Key question is are BOTH charts WRONG, and should we be using 50 Ft Lbs (68 NM rather than the 75 average NM on the Owner's Manual?

Is the Owner's Manual / CD Wrong?
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Old 05-27-2016, 01:35 AM   #9
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Again, "Snug"

Who carries a torque wrench (except maybe Spud) when they are out adventure riding? If all you got is the thin stamped wrench and you need to get your rear wheel off, you are going to have a hell of a time if it was spec'd down to 80nm in the shop. And you'd never be able to guess that when you got your wheel back on anyway, out where it matters most.

As long as you always put the "Nut-Side" to the right, it won't come undone from rotational vibration. Unless you ride backwards a lot.


 
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eco Mouse View Post
Again, "Snug"

Who carries a torque wrench (except maybe Spud) when they are out adventure riding? If all you got is the thin stamped wrench and you need to get your rear wheel off, you are going to have a hell of a time if it was spec'd down to 80nm in the shop. And you'd never be able to guess that when you got your wheel back on anyway, out where it matters most.

As long as you always put the "Nut-Side" to the right, it won't come undone from rotational vibration. Unless you ride backwards a lot.
Whats a torque wrench ?
Agree with you Eco, I'm a righty tighty, lefty loosey, if it ain't loose it's good to go, if it's loose tighten it to snug plus a bug.
"Nut side on right" now that's something I didn't know. Never had a axle nut come loose with just using the tools on the bike and a smidge of bicept. rj
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Old 05-27-2016, 07:35 PM   #11
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It's the reason why the counter sprocket nut always comes loose, and needs that keeper tab bent in place. If it was a left hand thread it would never come loose, and perhaps be really hard to get off.

Have you ever noticed that the left bicycle pedal is left hand threaded? It's to keep you from pedaling it off in about 10 strokes.


 
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:53 PM   #12
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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Same goes for the lugs on the left side of these guys

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Old 05-28-2016, 02:05 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eco Mouse View Post
Again, "Snug"

Who carries a torque wrench (except maybe Spud) when they are out adventure riding?...
I've never been accused of that before.

I have never used a torque wrench on an axle nut. I just tighten the axles nuts "snug."
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Old 05-30-2016, 11:19 AM   #14
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Adjusted the chain and aligned the wheel. Torqued to 50 lbs. Seemed "snug" enough.
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:01 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eco Mouse View Post
It's the reason why the counter sprocket nut always comes loose, and needs that keeper tab bent in place. If it was a left hand thread it would never come loose, and perhaps be really hard to get off.

Have you ever noticed that the left bicycle pedal is left hand threaded? It's to keep you from pedaling it off in about 10 strokes.
Counter sprocket nut: what if the chain/sprocket is on the right hand side of the bike?

Bicycle pedals: If you were to hold the pedal spindle so that it did not rotate and run the cranks forward the spindle would unscrew from the crank! But the ball bearings reverse the force on the spindle and tighten the spindle.

Old military trucks and Chrysler Corp cars. There may have been a theoretical reason to use left hand threads but for practical applications there was no advantage, and the disadvantages of extra part numbers and confusion.

FWIW: years ago when I was working in a bicycle shop a customer brought in a department store bike that he could not get the pedals completely in. He had FORCED the R in the L and the L in the R, each more than half way. We took them out with a BIG wrench, chased the threads, and put them in properly, with Loctite.
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