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Old 07-19-2016, 11:04 AM   #1
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Originally Posted by bogieboy View Post
my roketa is on its 3rd cable in just under a year and a half... thankfully rhey jave all broken on pre ride checkovers and not along my 30 mi commute.... that's where my interest is for a hydro clutch....
Check your pivot hole in the handle where the cable end sits. Sounds like a burr not allowing the cable end to pivot. That was an early Victory issue. "The Dreaded Burr".
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:14 AM   #2
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Might be a good mod for the old Montesa Cota 348...
they must have the heavyest clutch pull in the histroy
of motorcycling..
no fiber plates all steel with clutch springs stronger than a
chinese bikes rear shock...
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:28 PM   #3
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Holy cow! That's an animal! :-)
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Old 03-06-2018, 01:58 PM   #4
GlennR   GlennR is offline
 
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Any updates on installing a hydraulic clutch? I'd like to try a cheap one if there's a decent one that works well and will last.


 
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Old 04-05-2018, 10:21 AM   #5
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interesting that you ask GlennR... i just installed one LAST NIGHT...LOL i had a random left hand master cylinder from an old john deere atv in my posession, and installed it with one of these... sooooooo nice and smooth.... took almost a half hr just to bleed though.... i can post some installed pics tonight...



 
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Old 04-05-2018, 03:50 PM   #6
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That style of slave cylinder is a pain in the butt to bleed. I have done one so far, and the best method I have found for them is to elevate the slave above the master somehow, and then bleed it uphill. Really awkward to do without a bleed screw too. Another method that worked fairly well was to set the slave on a rack or tray over something to collect dripping brake fluid, crack the banjo just enough to start a slow leak, and gravity bleed it. This method takes forever though.

In either case, pre-filling the slave with a bit of fluid and cycling it a little to get the air out will help immensely.
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Old 04-05-2018, 05:42 PM   #7
ChondaChondaChonda   ChondaChondaChonda is offline
 
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Cables are so much simpler. Otom makes a nice brace that stops the flexing of the retainer issue and makes the pull a tiny bit lighter:




I have a Karoo trials bike that I never ride because of the broken hydraulic clutch. It's just a bigger pain than it's worth.


 
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Old 04-05-2018, 07:36 PM   #8
pyoungbl   pyoungbl is offline
 
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Chonda3, how about a link to Otom stuff. That brace looks interesting.

Peter Y.


 
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Old 04-05-2018, 09:11 PM   #9
ChondaChondaChonda   ChondaChondaChonda is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyoungbl View Post
Chonda3, how about a link to Otom stuff. That brace looks interesting.

Peter Y.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm...cket=20#detail


 
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Old 04-06-2018, 01:32 PM   #10
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChondaChondaChonda View Post
Cables are so much simpler. Otom makes a nice brace that stops the flexing of the retainer issue and makes the pull a tiny bit lighter:




I have a Karoo trials bike that I never ride because of the broken hydraulic clutch. It's just a bigger pain than it's worth.
i have heavy springs in my clutch,and have snapped 3 cables in 3 years.... LOL i alsio have a good background in hydraulics from my day job, working on john deere tractors.... so fixing them comes easy to me... broken cable you are sol until the new cable shows up...LOL


 
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Old 04-19-2018, 08:25 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bogieboy View Post
broken cable you are sol until the new cable shows up...LOL
You lack imagination. Or experience.

Hydraulic system failure, due to bad seal or burst line - you are SOL until new ones arrive. Unless you travel with extra fluid, lines, and seals. Much harder to field repair, if at all.

Broken cable - I can name several ways to field repair a broken cable to limp you home. Some that can be done with just a bit of bailing wire, or small cable clamps, both of which can be easily hidden away in a small baggie under the seat, wrapped around a part of the frame etc.

That said, properly maintained cables should last a very very long time.

Or that a good high quality Venhill cable kit is less than 20 bucks, and I always keep one on hand. If I break a cable, I can whip together a new one in 15 to 20 minutes with a small pen torch, some wire cutters, and solder.

Keep in mind that I love Hydro clutch setups. I have converted many of my own bikes to Hydraulic, but I will never discount the advantages of a cable setup.
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Old 04-19-2018, 08:58 AM   #12
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
You lack imagination. Or experience.

Hydraulic system failure, due to bad seal or burst line - you are SOL until new ones arrive. Unless you travel with extra fluid, lines, and seals. Much harder to field repair, if at all.

Broken cable - I can name several ways to field repair a broken cable to limp you home. Some that can be done with just a bit of bailing wire, or small cable clamps, both of which can be easily hidden away in a small baggie under the seat, wrapped around a part of the frame etc.

That said, properly maintained cables should last a very very long time.

Or that a good high quality Venhill cable kit is less than 20 bucks, and I always keep one on hand. If I break a cable, I can whip together a new one in 15 to 20 minutes with a small pen torch, some wire cutters, and solder.

Keep in mind that I love Hydro clutch setups. I have converted many of my own bikes to Hydraulic, but I will never discount the advantages of a cable setup.
on a dirt only setup, i would run a cable hands down... on a (soon to be) daily driven bike in city traffic? ill take the hydro LOL as for failed hydro? rev it up and drop it in gear... i hardly ever clutch between gears, only to stop/start.... so....LOL its always doable....


 
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Old 04-06-2018, 01:29 PM   #13
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
That style of slave cylinder is a pain in the butt to bleed. I have done one so far, and the best method I have found for them is to elevate the slave above the master somehow, and then bleed it uphill. Really awkward to do without a bleed screw too. Another method that worked fairly well was to set the slave on a rack or tray over something to collect dripping brake fluid, crack the banjo just enough to start a slow leak, and gravity bleed it. This method takes forever though.

In either case, pre-filling the slave with a bit of fluid and cycling it a little to get the air out will help immensely.
Megadan, i found it bled out fairly easily...LOL slave lower than the master, and pump the slave in and out slowly. each stroke pulls oil down the hose to the slave, and each return stroke purges the air back up the hose to the master cylinder. shake the slave and hose about every 10 stokes to shake loose any stubborn air, and it will go quite smooth....


 
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Old 04-06-2018, 10:12 AM   #14
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Must....resist....clicking.....
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Old 04-06-2018, 11:40 AM   #15
sjeff35   sjeff35 is offline
 
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Must....resist....clicking.....
DON'T DO IT. My head just exploded when I did.



 
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