Rhino 250???

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by JDGnut

2LZ, Have you ran it much with the new lights yet?? I don't know what the AMP out put is of the gen.. I don't get lights that are too big of a draw.. I know the little 135DU can barely keep the stock lights lit.. at idle the dim, but the 150 seems to do good..
(Kind of wishing I had bought the 250.)

Haven't run it at all. It's been doing nothing here but raining and freezing. Supposed to get snow tomorrow. I'm afraid my new quad will still be new in March! :-(

I haven't looked this up for certain but from what I understand, the LED's draw less than an incandescent bulb. That was another reason I wired them into, and bypassed, the high beams. I may be wrong on that but I'll let you know once I get some time on it.

In all honesty, I'll only be running this thing at night coming back from the neighbors after visiting there. 90% of my time on it will be daylight so headlights weren't that big a deal. My thing is since they're there, I wanted them functional, just in case.

Oh....and the 250 is manual clutch. That may not work in your situation.

[JDGnut]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

I haven't looked this up for certain but from what I understand, the LED's draw less than an incandescent bulb. That was another reason I wired them into, and bypassed, the high beams. I may be wrong on that but I'll let you know once I get some time on it.

Oh....and the 250 is manual clutch. That may not work in your situation.

True on the LED's.. but I pulled the stock bulbs, and pretty sure it said 10 Watts.. which is really low.. (Less than 1 Amp) I'll put an amp meter on it and see what they are actually using.. Probably the reason they don't light up anything.. haha.. An old school turn signal bulb.. (1157/1156) will have about 2 Amps, which is about 24-28 Watts.. I found some small LED's that are 10 Watts, and will probably put them on the 135DU.. but want something better for the 150D... but I might look for some LED bulbs for the factory bezels.

I forgot about the 250s being manual. I thought the Rhino was not.. but I see that is... I was actually thinking of one for a work ATV, but I need an Auto or Semi auto...

[JDGnut]

I checked the current on the lights.. Each head light is drawing .85-.9 Amps..
The the tail light is drawing .3-.4 with just the tail light, when you step on the brakes, it pulls about 2.3-2.4 Amps. It looks like they are using a standard 1157 bulb for the tail light.. Will changing the tail light to an LED soon..

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by JDGnut

I checked the current on the lights.. Each head light is drawing .85-.9 Amps..
The the tail light is drawing .3-.4 with just the tail light, when you step on the brakes, it pulls about 2.3-2.4 Amps. It looks like they are using a standard 1157 bulb for the tail light.. Will changing the tail light to an LED soon..

Looks like an old 1157 to me also. Let me know what LED you end up using. I'll need to grab one as well.

[2LZ]

Got some quality time on the Rhino over the holiday. I received the proper jetting and got the Mikuni all set up in my warm kitchen and ready to go. I got that mounted up just fine with breather and it fit like a glove. Thanks for the awesome Mikuni info Weldangrind! I still have to play a bit with the mixture screw (maybe 1/4 turn) but the performance is vastily improved over the stock PZ carb. It's too bad they sealed these up because I've had amazingly good luck with the PZ carbs in the past. Under the current situation, as Weld says, it's just easier for the 30-something bucks to get the Mikuni. I tried to keep the cable choke setup but passed for now. I'll mess with that again later.
The exhaust was another story. I was ready to bust out the Sawzall and make the proper adjustments...but after further inspection, found out that the pipe was neither welded nor clamped together. The entire rear section of heavy bazooka just slid right off! I have one of Spud's favorite units on the shelf ready-to-go from another bike, the FMF Turbine Core II. This is actually a USFS Approved spark arrestor but with the small displacement engines we're dealing with, it also makes a great muffler. Light, inexpensive (about 120.00 give or take), is made from stainless and has a nice sound, especially with the pushrod Hondoid motor. I bought it for my Q but the OHC seemed to have a more shrill tone and I didn't like it, even with the end baffling I fabricated for it. It works well with these pushrod motors. I'll probably end up doing some different pipe work when I can get my hands on my buddy's tubing bender but for now, this will do.

Anyway, with the valves properly adjusted, new oil, the new carb (30 pilot, 115 main) and breather and now the exhaust, it now runs and sounds like it should.

[Weldangrind]

It doesn't look like you need to worry about bending the exhaust tubing. The TCII looks right at home.

Does the motor fire right up when cold, given the new jetting?

This is the filter I trust for dusty conditions: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-42mm-4...VVuDNp&vxp=mtr You might need to rejet after oiling and installing the foam filter, but the protection is worth it.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

It doesn't look like you need to worry about bending the exhaust tubing. The TCII looks right at home.

Does the motor fire right up when cold, given the new jetting?

This is the filter I trust for dusty conditions: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-42mm-4...VVuDNp&vxp=mtr You might need to rejet after oiling and installing the foam filter, but the protection is worth it.

The motor fires right up cold, well enough. It does act a wee cold blooded for a few moments but it's been very cold and damp too. I'll see how it acts this Spring when it warms a little. After a minute or two of run time in the choke's center position, I can flip to the open position no problem.
I'll check that filter out....but you know my aversion to the foam filters after almost turning my Hensim into the Towering Enferno with an Uni red pod filter on that one occasion. It's a phobia I'll have to work on.....

[Weldangrind]

I forgot about that; totally reasonable response. Perhaps a length of ABS tube could be used to move the filter away from the carb. That's how I did it on our 150 GY6. I simply hacked the original airbox boot, stuffed the ABS inside it and clamped it together. The pod now resides under the seat, where it is much easier to access.

Before that surgery, I had to remove the bodywork to access the airbox.

[ChinaATVMods]

We just put a 37 tooth rear sprocket on ours. Great take off power!

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by ChinaATVMods

We just put a 37 tooth rear sprocket on ours. Great take off power!

Good to know! I'll have to look on there and see what the stock tooth count is. I'll probably be fishing for a one tooth smaller front sprocket. I'm not concerned about top speed but I need the mule power.

[2LZ]

Follow-up report:
Well, super-early in this thread I mentioned how the front rack cover arrived hammered and I provided a pic of the damage. I finally heard back from Superior Power Sports on my out-of-crate damaged front plastic rack cover. Even after filling out all the proper paperwork, submitting it to the proper department and providing pics, they denied my claim and will not warranty the part.

To this point, I've been generally happy with SPS on this one transaction of a Rhino. I wasn't in a hurry and things went down basically like they said it would. At this point though, to not warranty a damaged part that arrived this way is not acceptable to me. Their reasoning was that they don't warranty plastic parts. Whatever.... It's not like I'm even too concerned about it, as I'll probably pull both plastic covers off anyway because they buzz like hell, but it's just the principle of the thing. It showed up damaged and they won't do-me-right on a super cheap part.

I let them know that when I purchase the Coolster 150 ATV for Mrs 2LZ in February for her birthday that I'll be ordering it from another source. I'm sure with the mammoth amount of stock they move, this is no deal breaker but it left a foul enough taste in my mouth not to pop another grand into their satchel.

Am I over-reacting??????????

[Adjuster]

Always pay with a credit card. Gives you lots of leverage.


/

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Am I over-reacting??????????

Definitely not.

I once bought a carb from Gio, and it arrived damaged. For a "processing fee", they said they would ship me another one. The fee amounted to the cost of the carb. Haven't dealt with them since.

BTW, they shipped the carb in a cardboard box with no packing material.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Definitely not.

I once bought a carb from Gio, and it arrived damaged. For a "processing fee", they said they would ship me another one. The fee amounted to the cost of the carb. Haven't dealt with them since.

BTW, they shipped the carb in a cardboard box with no packing material.

Nice packing job!

Yah, as a China Rider, I realize that we take chances just choosing to purchase what we do. Especially in the early days, odds are the guy you bought something from wouldn't be there next month. Just by the nature of it, we accepted the fact we were on our own for repairs, getting the product to run correctly, etc.... Even today we still have to play with jetting or replace carbs and make adjustments, but to me, that's all part of the fun. Heck, I think I like the wrenching and "conquering the unknown" more than the riding!

Companies like CSC and my guy here in Sac are doing their best to change this perception. Doug here at ATV Wholesale has a very impressive shop, tons of parts, has warrantied parts for me on earlier bikes I've bought from him....but CSC and ATV Wholesale also want a premium for the products they offer, over the "Big Box Websites" for the like products. I was just hoping this one time I've ordered from a Big Box Website, that they would have honored something that showed up damaged....especially something so minor.

Weldangrind, what's more worrisome to me, more than the principle of them not honoring a cheap rack cover was their reasoning of "We don't warranty plastic parts". What if the main body had shown up cracked or damaged? That would have been a major problem.

Maybe I'll go see Doug here in Sac for the Coolster and see if he'll give me a deal on just dropping a crate into my truck. He generally doesn't dicker at all. His prices are about 3-500 higher on his assembled floor stock than a box store website but if I can get him down a bit on a crate....I'll know he'll be there to do my warranty work in the future.

Something to think about........

[Weldangrind]

I'm with you on the bigger picture, when the dealer wouldn't warranty plastic.

Perhaps Doug would be willing to negotiate if he knew that you'd post a pictorial / tutorial on setting up his product. Might be worth a discussion.