Making a spare tire swing carrier.

[XLsior]

Removing the manifolds I found the cylinder 1 exhaust gasket and mating surface a bit off color.

[Thumper]

Low compression due to leaking gasket in cylinder 1 could be bad enough to prevent firing (diesel needs high compression for the explosion, of course). Yes, you probably do have a leak allowing gases to escape into the cooling system from cylinder 1.

My son's '02 Honda Civic kept blowing out the coolant over time and would begin to overheat. But it was not visible, going out the exhaust I guess. I never saw coolant on the ground. Fortunately, the engine revived with a remanufactured head/new gasket set. Lots of work, but it is fixable.

[Thumper]

Timing chains usually outlast the engine. Well, it may have lasted as long as the head at least!

Tensioner worn, maybe needs a new spring? Hopefully, you are on the right track with cam chain causing the low rpm roughness. Once you've sorted that out, maybe the new injectors will be OK too.

Is that a high pressure common rail injection system like they have on newer VWs? I am wondering if the fuel pump is keeping up? Maybe so, since it's good at higher rpm.

[XLsior]

No its mechanical indirect injection...Pre chamber swirl pots with glow plugs...


I wouldn't be able to afford a common rail rebuild let alone DIY...



The timing chains go at about 100k on some examples of the 4m40 but my engine has done double that, But you're right most timing chains last with the life of the engine..


But the bottom end is solid with decent oil pressure, So no reason not to try and fix it...



The tensioner might be at full range but it did retract and spring out fine...The engine did not run like this when I had the old head and ran the engine with the fuel bypass...


So yeah the chain or the tensioner / both might not have made the head swap transition as intact.


The top sprocket was held in place with zipties so no tooth was skipped.

[XLsior]

Double checked chain tension and tensioner..


They both seem ok...nothing to suggest slop or slack.


So that would seem to indicate a possible conflict with the new cam and the serviced injection pump...because essentially the rest of the engine timing is as before...


Perhaps the pump timing is out...? It is a possibility. Technically still under service warranty...



I will contact the Diesel pump service center and discuss my symptoms with them after the weekend.


The cam chain would have to be slack and whiplashed to effect the idle in such a way.


So in that respect the replacement cam chain can hold off for now...

[XLsior]

I have ordered a VE injection pump dial gauge timing kit as well as a diesel compression test kit.... But could my crappy running and tail pipe vape chuff be a sign of over tight valve clearances?

Mitsubishi Manual suggests 0.2mm intakes and 0.3mm exhaust... I can report that only the 2nd cylinder is close to specification with a 0.18mm intake and 0.3mm exhaust valve clearance.

Cylinder 1 and 3 intakes are very tight 0.09mm and 0.1mm respectively. With the rest all being tighter than recommended in general. It appears the valve lash from the manufacturer was overtight and passed QC...I have contacted the ebay seller but I don't like my chances as they are requesting a licensed mechanics ID# as part of the warranty process... I did salvage the shims from the old head so I might be removing the SOHC and swapping shims over the weekend....

[Thumper]

Shims! Those are no fun. It's always like doing the job over and over if you don't have the right shims you need, and you have take them out just to figure out what shim you need, whether you can move one from one to another position when possible. Then wait for ordered shims and do it all over again. Went through this on my first gen DOHC Suzuki 4 cylinder bikes.

Do you have the cam follower depression tool? I bought the tool and it was a pain in the neck rotating it into place. Stiff springs.

Yes. I agree it can affect valve timing, especially at low rpm, which is wot you are seeing.

[XLsior]

Well looks like I got fudged on the QC and was supplied an assembled head with oversized shims and bad clearances.


I have contacted the seller again.


But i have pretty good case to open an ebay dispute now.


Also have discovered exhaust lobe cyl 3 cam lobe has knife edged...


So I'm going to install my old Mitsubishi cam and probably the buckets and shims too...


Made in China not always a money saver....

[XLsior]

I'll be swapping the glove box handle first before any major blood knuckles and swearing...


Yes I can drive it locally with a cheeky plate swap but the new/old rustbucket is no longer registered as the seller kept plates under his name. Also it's an automatic slush box which for me takes some getting used to...



The dog's name is Shylook, a German short haired pointer 'GSP' she's about 8 years old now. I might take her to the dog park as its been a few months stuck at home.

[XLsior]

Found a couple of bucks in loose change and the tank is half full of diesel...so already winning there...

[XLsior]

Finding a few bonus items.


yes the diffs are same ratio... not sure if the pinion shaft/uni joint measurements are the same though.

[cheesy]

There are worse things to find in an old car than a Patricia Cornwell book.

[XLsior]

Yes I would have preferred dark horse comics predator...


But nothing wrong with free fire lighters and kindling...

[XLsior]

Well, After doing the shim math and ordering a new shim set to work with the OG cam in the new chinsy cylinder head and firing up the van it still ran a but chuffy...


So I will be doing a injection pump timing service with my new VE pump dial gauge indicator.


Side note I went through 4 ebay customer help service members and with photo evidence and establishing the seller went silent regarding my cylinder head valve clearance and dusted cam it was likely the seller went into administration....


TLDR: I got a full refund.


Which is appreciated considering the issue could have caused catastrophic engine damage in it's supplied non OEM specific configuration...


Tackling some rust sections on the other LWB parts van...


very wet and humid weather here though so body work isn't ideal right now.

[XLsior]

Was doing an oil change and checked the air filter on the LWB.


not sure what type of oil or how old it was so seemed like a wise move.


I also had a spare air filter which was in better condition then what was previously installed...


Cleaned the air box and checked the turbo for end float...


While removing the intake tube I made a remarkable "Performance Mod" discovery...


A genuine HiClone air intake induction swirl thingy... Which I will tell you now is actually detrimental...Not only was installed on a pre turbo diesel situation as opposed to a naturally aspirated petrol engine...


But if anything it just acts as an air flow restriction...


Though I might be tempted to see if it fits in my 3" snorkel plan as a safety grill/rat shield.