SuperATV's Rear Disc Conversion for Honda

[01SSRedA4]

This is part number: RDBK-H.

Fits:
TRX300 2x4 1988-2000
TRX300 4x4 1988-2000
TRX350 RANCHER 2x4 2000-2006
TRX350 RANCHER 4x4 2000-2006
TRX400AT RANCHER 400 2004-2007
TRX420 RANCHER 4x2 2007-NEWER (with Solid Rear AXLE, not IRS MODELS)
TRX420 RANCHER 4x4 2007-NEWER (with Solid Rear AXLE, not IRS MODELS)
TRX400 FOREMAN 4x4 1995-2003
TRX500 RUBICON 2001- NEWER
TRX500 FOREMAN 500 2005-NEWER

So we start it off, everything was packaged nicely.


Full color instructions....nice touch:


Disc looks sturdy:


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[01SSRedA4]

This is the new bearing part number, already assembled:


For those not that familiar with the outboard drum setup on the 500 foreman, this it.


A little closer pic:


You'll notice from this pic I had to cut a stud off so I could get a wrench on the castle nut. It would not budge otherwise as I didn't have the correct sized socket. This was stock as assembled by Honda and 8 years old.


You can see the dust cover seal has already taken some punishment, and would be a high failure point due to constant clay mud and water intrusion.

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[01SSRedA4]

This smelled like straight cow manure. Apparently it had been hiding in there for some time:


And this is the drum, besides being wet, overall in good shape (750 miles)


What hides beneath is a mess. There is stuff growing in there.....absolutely due to owner neglect.


With the pads moved out of the way:


Dis-assembly complete. Now its time to install the new stuff.



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[01SSRedA4]

The o-ring that seals your bearing plate to your axle tube is plain not gonna stay in place without some help. The bearing needs to be lightly tapped on the axle, so apply some rtv of choice just to hold it in place while you position your bearing.



Here is the bearing plate, caliper bracket, and line bracket mocked up:


Here's another issue with this kit. The turn cam that drives the caliper closed is dry, I think it needs grease. Rotate it out of the caliper, add the grease/lube of your choice and re-insert. Also, the long bracket needs two things done, remove the powder coat out of the hex hole at the bottom, and two: remove the powder coat out of the slots, otherwise this will not go together. Hey at least the tolerances are nice and tight.



Threw the disc and caliper rear bracket on after the touches: Another issue, focus on the castle nut. They supply you a very thin washer, well its not thick enough. You will need to add 1/4" minimum in washer thickness or the disc will slight left and right because the castle nut runs out of threads before its tight. I put their wider washer first, then my thicker one next, then the castle and it worked perfect.




And this is fully assembled and adjusted. Huge improvement.


My driving impressions were: Good stopping power. If this was your only brake on the machine you could get by easily. I'd say it stops as good as a perfectly functioning drum setup, the difference is, this wont hold water and stop working. Should be easier/cheaper maintenance and upkeep also. Win/win.



EDIT: Added hydraulic to it.

I started by buying the generic 68" ATV brake cable off ebay. It was about $20. Anything longer then that and price goes up quite a bit and is hard to find. Turns out the stock brake line is about 80". So yeah, it didn't work. Here's what I had going for me: $24 generic driver side master, revised bracket, new caliper/pads:
Came up slightly short:
Turns out for "scooters" there is a longer cable for about $30. Well before I knew about that I bought an AN line from Russel. I converted the brake fittings to AN, used straight couplers, and a prefit, pre-made brake line so it was all plug and play. Perfect fit, and remember I have the 2.5" longer 450 swingarm. I bought solid washers also instead of the oring stuff that SuperATV provided.

I was even able to keep my winch control on the drivers side:

Impressions: Stops incredible after about 3 pumps. I think the master is not strong enough to make this caliper do the full amount of work its capable of. On the first pump its a decent braking amount but not enough for an emergency move...by the third pump, its got impressive stopping power. I may change to a name brand master and see if that makes it better.

[Weldangrind]

Awesome write-up! Thanks for posting the excellent pics and details.

The mold was just nasty!

[SpudRider]

Thank you for taking the time to document your work with such excellent photographs.

[01SSRedA4]

Hopefully it helps someone with their decision!

[01SSRedA4]

Added hydraulic!

[Weldangrind]

What are you using it for? How did you connect the pump?

[01SSRedA4]

No "pump". Just a generic master cylinder mounted on the handle bars, braided steel line to the hydraulic caliper. Simple as can be.

[Weldangrind]

Sorry, I misunderstood. When you said you added hydraulic, I was thinking of a hydraulic pump for accessories. I've had tractors and logsplitters on the brain lately.