2001 KLR 650 Refresh

Sport Rider · 06-07-2023, 10:07 AM

before and after of some cosmetic changes I've done. Still LOTS more work/fixing to do. Some electrical things are still pending and I'm hoping to have it running by the end of the week if the parts arrive as expected.

I am going to purchase a heat gun and remove the graphics on the tank. Not sure if I'll leave it silver or paint it black. I'm not much of painter, so may just leave it. Besides, I'm likely going to upgrade to an aftermarket larger tank the long run anyway.

Sport Rider · 06-09-2023, 08:45 AM

so, this week I dug into the electricals of the bike. wiring diagrams do little to tell you what plug connects to what. Chilton's manuals with B/W pictures don't help much either.

I replaced the main fuse holder and figured out my brown wire connection to get the headlight working. Not without a lot of head scratching though.

I got a new starter solenoid and installed that along with the main fuse holder. I figured that was the reason for the bike not starting without jumping between the posts. It didn't though, and I had a tough time figureing out the reason for my starter button not turning the bike over. I finally figured out that the PO had removed a starter switch relay and hidden the connector behind the front chain guard. Once I discovered that, there's a bypass to get around that. I made up a jumper wire and got that working.

Speaking of bypasses, the PO had bypassed the clutch/neutral safety switch. it had a jumper wire already installed and based on videos, it appeared to have been done properly. The other bypass was for the kickstand safety. the kickstand safety had been removed, but the bypass jumper wire was not done. I fixed that up too.

Once all these things were straightened out, I was able to start the bike properly.

You might ask why do the bypasses. basically, it's so that there's less potential issues to crop up when out in the back country adventure riding. I'm a bit hesitant, but understand the value-add. It might take a little time to get used to the process, but I think it will be fine. The safety nazi's are probably rolling over in their graves.

I also got new footpegs for the bike to replace the OEM ones. I received my new front tire and tube (including a spare tube) but have not installed it yet. I got a new rear sprocket, also not installed yet.

I'm waiting on a rear tire and tube. when I get that I'll change the rear and also install the sprocket. I'll do the front as well. I ordered a header cover (OEM used one). it will look a little better than the rusty header pipe. also have the radiator and new hoses on the way. I'll wait to swap all that stuff out at the same time. The radiator is beat up, but not leaking. I figured it should be replaced just to be safe. New clutch lever is pending as well. the current one works but is broken and can only engage it with two fingers.

I still need to order turn signals and a wind screen. And still need to get title/registration/plates too. Not sure if I'll have time today. perhaps next week.

zero_dgz · 06-09-2023, 11:17 AM

I have to say, I've never been a fan of the kickstand and clutch bypasses. I know they're a popular mod due to generalized paranoia that these will somehow "fail" in the field but I own a KLR and ride the shit out of it, and everyone in my riding group also has their own KLR's and ride the shit out of those, and I have never, ever actually seen a clutch or kickstand switch fail in the field.

I would much prefer to know that my bike will not lurch me into a tree or a ditch or off of its sidestand if I space out and mash the starter button while in gear... I don't think it's much of a safety consideration; I'd rather just not annoy myself or dump my bike for a stupid reason.

If you want my advice, and you probably don't, I would replace your header pipe with one from a Gen 2 bike. The Gen 2 (2008+) header pipes are stainless from the factory and I believe it is a direct fit. They hold up a lot better than the Gen 1 pipes.

Sport Rider · 06-09-2023, 11:30 AM

I'll check into the gen 2 pipes. I'd like to get an aftermarket muffler and could do those at the same time.

I hear you on the bypasses. the neutral switch was already done. the kickstand switch was missing the cable, so other than sourcing new parts, I just bypassed it properly. The start system relay was missing too, just not bypassed. easier to bypass rather than order another part. I have noticed stories like a stick going up through the kickstand switch and disabling it....stuff like that. I wonder if it's a good idea to carry the bypass wires just in case any of the systems goes bad. I get your point about it not happening much though.

Sport Rider · 06-12-2023, 03:31 PM

took the speedo cable apart today. it's broke. explains why the speedo wasn't working. :(

I ordered a new one and also turn signals and a LED relay. I'm hoping by next week to have it on the road.

Sport Rider · 06-14-2023, 11:57 AM

new tire. new winkers. new sprocket.

zero_dgz · 06-14-2023, 03:12 PM

Shinko 705's?

Don't forget to check the cush drive while you have the rear sprocket off. I'll leave another tip in the tip jar: The outer rear wheel bearings are not sealed on the KLR, so when you have the rear wheel off is a good time to re-pack them with grease if you didn't already. One of them comes out with the rear sprocket carrier. The other is under a lil cap on the right hand side which you may have to knock out with a punch from the opposite side if it hasn't been removed in years/decades. Hopefully I did not just make you take the rear wheel off again...

Sport Rider · 06-15-2023, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zero_dgz

Shinko 705's?

Don't forget to check the cush drive while you have the rear sprocket off. I'll leave another tip in the tip jar: The outer rear wheel bearings are not sealed on the KLR, so when you have the rear wheel off is a good time to re-pack them with grease if you didn't already. One of them comes out with the rear sprocket carrier. The other is under a lil cap on the right hand side which you may have to knock out with a punch from the opposite side if it hasn't been removed in years/decades. Hopefully I did not just make you take the rear wheel off again...

Yes, they are 705s. not the greatest for dirt/sand/mud, but I plan on some street riding and hard packed dirt roads to get some experience on the bike before I do anything adventurous.

...and yes...you made me take the rear wheel off again.

thanks for the tidbits!

zero_dgz · 06-15-2023, 12:23 PM

I ran 705's for one tire cycle, including a few adventure rides. They are adequate for that use case, and believe it or not also do okay on grass. As you say, mud is their weak point. They do not shed wet mud very well. They are excellent on pavement, do tolerably well in loose dry dirt, and work just fine on gravel and similar. I think you'll do just fine.

I now exclusively run the E804/805 on my KLR. Just put a fresh set on the day before yesterday, in fact. (No, I don't know why the front and rear tires are different model numbers from Shinko.) I think this tire is one of the best kept secrets for the middle/lightweight adventure crowd, especially for the price. It does just as well on pavement as the 705 as far as I can tell, and is significantly more capable in loose off-road terrain.

If you're sick of the damn cotter pin on the rear axle nut every time you take it off, get yourself one of these:

https://www.autozone.com/trailer-hit...ack/207591_0_0

I got a pack of three at the Autozone Across The Street and they're much more easily removed and infinitely reusable. Cheap enough. I gave away the extras to my other KLR buddies.

Sport Rider · 06-17-2023, 05:28 PM

I replaced the radiator an hoses today and got the fan wiring hooked up properly. Also changed the oil and added a charger connector for winter use. I took it out for a test ride and found some off Road near the house. Temp gauge working fine. Fan cycling on and off as expected. Speedo is next. Other than a windshield and crash bars i have it about where I want it. Looking forward to some ADV riding!

XLsior · 06-17-2023, 07:31 PM

doohickey?

Sport Rider · 06-17-2023, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XLsior

doohickey?

no clue. it's on the list to check out at some point. I suspect it was because there are a number of other mods that were done to it. don't know for sure though, so gotta check.

Sport Rider · 06-23-2023, 12:29 PM

got the new speedo cable and installed it. everything is working as expected. I'll be sure to check the hub when I have the front wheel off for replacement, but for now, it's working fine.

I ordered a new shifter as the one that's on the bike appears to be rubbing against the engine case. likely slightly bent from a tip over. I also ordered some rear brake pads. the rear brakes are not still working as well as I want. I also ordered some thick aluminum stock to try lowering my footpegs. might have to use steel eventually, but this will give me an idea of fitment. A windshield will be next on my list. I like Parabellum, but someone suggested Rifle to me. I'll check those two out further before I decide.

Sport Rider · 06-26-2023, 11:00 AM

so, I got a new shifter and replacement brake pads over the weekend. took me all of 15 minutes to swap things out. rear brakes are notoriously weak on these bikes, but they are MUCH improved. Shift lever is not rubbing the case and shifting is better too.

I managed to get a 50 mile shakedown ride in. The bike performed very well. This thing just feels so much like the hawk 250, but with enough power to move along very well. I managed to get it up to 70 and no wobbles or shakes. The speedo is 5 mph over the actual GPS indicated speed of the bike. it cruised along at a GPS indicated 55-60 with little effort and I'm sure it could run that speed all day long.

The bike felt good overall, but a few things that still need some attention. I need a wind screen to avoid the wind directly in the chest. I'd like to get hand guards as well, but that's not a necessity for travel right now. I am going to lower the footpegs and also try to move them back perhaps an inch. Right now the rear brake lever throw is quite long and the pad is low compared to the footpeg. this may help with that. (I bet the lever is probably bent a bit)

I'll continue to expand the duration of the shakedown runs to get more comfortable with the bike and ensure it's trip-worthy. Then I'll be doing some portion of the SCAR.

zero_dgz · 06-27-2023, 11:21 AM

The rear brake pedal being low is typical of these bikes, and it is exacerbated if you install more aggressive footpegs, like I did, which are typically taller in profile. I have my pedal wound all the way to the highest point on it's adjustment and while it's better, it's still a little low for my comfort. I may just give up and make a spacer to clip to the top of the pedal to make it physically taller.

Lowering your pegs will definitely help with that. I think a lot of the perception of the KLR having "weak" rear brakes is the pedal height being whack, so riders are not necessarily engaging the rear brake in full when they mean to. I know I certainly wasn't until I adjusted the shit out of mine.

I'm sure I don't need to tell you that you can adjust the effective height of the brake pedal by loosening the nut on the bracket and screwing the threaded end of the master cylinder piston in and out.

A taller windscreen is on my shopping list as well, because I have confirmed that a bunch of the wibble-wobble and buffeting I get at highway speed is the wind hitting me which makes it tough to keep the bars straight (especially when you're surrounded by 18 wheelers). I'm torn, though, because I really don't feel like necking myself on the top of the windscreen when I'm riding off road. My bike is a Gen 2 which already has "better" wind protection and aero than your Gen 1 (not by much) so it might be worth the investment if you stay on pavement regularly.

You can indeed sit at 50 or 60 MPH all day on one of these bikes. I do so regularly. Mine will touch 100 MPH with a long enough runup, and made it to 112 once without exploding. They don't exactly leap forward if you open the throttle above around 70, though.

The Tusk handguards are a perennial favorite for the KLR, probably because they are effective but cheap (like KLR owners themselves). I have the same pair; on a Gen 2 you also need handlebar risers so you don't smack the cowling at full lock, but on a Gen 1 you don't.

06-07-2023, 10:07 AM	#1
Sport Rider Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Mooresville NC Posts: 2,029	2001 KLR 650 Refresh before and after of some cosmetic changes I've done. Still LOTS more work/fixing to do. Some electrical things are still pending and I'm hoping to have it running by the end of the week if the parts arrive as expected. I am going to purchase a heat gun and remove the graphics on the tank. Not sure if I'll leave it silver or paint it black. I'm not much of painter, so may just leave it. Besides, I'm likely going to upgrade to an aftermarket larger tank the long run anyway. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Dave Bikes I've owned: Suzuki GS450T, Yamaha XS500, Honda V45 Sabre, Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic (2), Suzuki VX800, Kawasaki Ninja 650, Triumph TT600, Honda Superhawk, Kawasaki Concours 1000 (3, including a sidecar rig), Buell XB9R, Kawasaki Nomad 1500, Concours 14, Honda Goldwing (2), Housen Hawk, Suzuki Intruder 1400, Kawasaki KLR650, Victory V92TC.
	2

06-09-2023, 08:45 AM	#2
Sport Rider Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Mooresville NC Posts: 2,029	so, this week I dug into the electricals of the bike. wiring diagrams do little to tell you what plug connects to what. Chilton's manuals with B/W pictures don't help much either. I replaced the main fuse holder and figured out my brown wire connection to get the headlight working. Not without a lot of head scratching though. I got a new starter solenoid and installed that along with the main fuse holder. I figured that was the reason for the bike not starting without jumping between the posts. It didn't though, and I had a tough time figureing out the reason for my starter button not turning the bike over. I finally figured out that the PO had removed a starter switch relay and hidden the connector behind the front chain guard. Once I discovered that, there's a bypass to get around that. I made up a jumper wire and got that working. Speaking of bypasses, the PO had bypassed the clutch/neutral safety switch. it had a jumper wire already installed and based on videos, it appeared to have been done properly. The other bypass was for the kickstand safety. the kickstand safety had been removed, but the bypass jumper wire was not done. I fixed that up too. Once all these things were straightened out, I was able to start the bike properly. You might ask why do the bypasses. basically, it's so that there's less potential issues to crop up when out in the back country adventure riding. I'm a bit hesitant, but understand the value-add. It might take a little time to get used to the process, but I think it will be fine. The safety nazi's are probably rolling over in their graves. I also got new footpegs for the bike to replace the OEM ones. I received my new front tire and tube (including a spare tube) but have not installed it yet. I got a new rear sprocket, also not installed yet. I'm waiting on a rear tire and tube. when I get that I'll change the rear and also install the sprocket. I'll do the front as well. I ordered a header cover (OEM used one). it will look a little better than the rusty header pipe. also have the radiator and new hoses on the way. I'll wait to swap all that stuff out at the same time. The radiator is beat up, but not leaking. I figured it should be replaced just to be safe. New clutch lever is pending as well. the current one works but is broken and can only engage it with two fingers. I still need to order turn signals and a wind screen. And still need to get title/registration/plates too. Not sure if I'll have time today. perhaps next week. __________________ Dave Bikes I've owned: Suzuki GS450T, Yamaha XS500, Honda V45 Sabre, Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic (2), Suzuki VX800, Kawasaki Ninja 650, Triumph TT600, Honda Superhawk, Kawasaki Concours 1000 (3, including a sidecar rig), Buell XB9R, Kawasaki Nomad 1500, Concours 14, Honda Goldwing (2), Housen Hawk, Suzuki Intruder 1400, Kawasaki KLR650, Victory V92TC.
	1

06-09-2023, 11:30 AM	#4
Sport Rider Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Mooresville NC Posts: 2,029	I'll check into the gen 2 pipes. I'd like to get an aftermarket muffler and could do those at the same time. I hear you on the bypasses. the neutral switch was already done. the kickstand switch was missing the cable, so other than sourcing new parts, I just bypassed it properly. The start system relay was missing too, just not bypassed. easier to bypass rather than order another part. I have noticed stories like a stick going up through the kickstand switch and disabling it....stuff like that. I wonder if it's a good idea to carry the bypass wires just in case any of the systems goes bad. I get your point about it not happening much though. __________________ Dave Bikes I've owned: Suzuki GS450T, Yamaha XS500, Honda V45 Sabre, Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic (2), Suzuki VX800, Kawasaki Ninja 650, Triumph TT600, Honda Superhawk, Kawasaki Concours 1000 (3, including a sidecar rig), Buell XB9R, Kawasaki Nomad 1500, Concours 14, Honda Goldwing (2), Housen Hawk, Suzuki Intruder 1400, Kawasaki KLR650, Victory V92TC.
	0

06-12-2023, 03:31 PM	#5
Sport Rider Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Mooresville NC Posts: 2,029	took the speedo cable apart today. it's broke. explains why the speedo wasn't working. :( I ordered a new one and also turn signals and a LED relay. I'm hoping by next week to have it on the road. __________________ Dave Bikes I've owned: Suzuki GS450T, Yamaha XS500, Honda V45 Sabre, Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic (2), Suzuki VX800, Kawasaki Ninja 650, Triumph TT600, Honda Superhawk, Kawasaki Concours 1000 (3, including a sidecar rig), Buell XB9R, Kawasaki Nomad 1500, Concours 14, Honda Goldwing (2), Housen Hawk, Suzuki Intruder 1400, Kawasaki KLR650, Victory V92TC.
	1

06-14-2023, 11:57 AM	#6
Sport Rider Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Mooresville NC Posts: 2,029	new tire. new winkers. new sprocket. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Dave Bikes I've owned: Suzuki GS450T, Yamaha XS500, Honda V45 Sabre, Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic (2), Suzuki VX800, Kawasaki Ninja 650, Triumph TT600, Honda Superhawk, Kawasaki Concours 1000 (3, including a sidecar rig), Buell XB9R, Kawasaki Nomad 1500, Concours 14, Honda Goldwing (2), Housen Hawk, Suzuki Intruder 1400, Kawasaki KLR650, Victory V92TC.
	2

06-09-2023, 11:17 AM	#3
zero_dgz Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 243	I have to say, I've never been a fan of the kickstand and clutch bypasses. I know they're a popular mod due to generalized paranoia that these will somehow "fail" in the field but I own a KLR and ride the shit out of it, and everyone in my riding group also has their own KLR's and ride the shit out of those, and I have never, ever actually seen a clutch or kickstand switch fail in the field. I would much prefer to know that my bike will not lurch me into a tree or a ditch or off of its sidestand if I space out and mash the starter button while in gear... I don't think it's much of a safety consideration; I'd rather just not annoy myself or dump my bike for a stupid reason. If you want my advice, and you probably don't, I would replace your header pipe with one from a Gen 2 bike. The Gen 2 (2008+) header pipes are stainless from the factory and I believe it is a direct fit. They hold up a lot better than the Gen 1 pipes.
	0

06-14-2023, 03:12 PM	#7
zero_dgz Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 243	Shinko 705's? Don't forget to check the cush drive while you have the rear sprocket off. I'll leave another tip in the tip jar: The outer rear wheel bearings are not sealed on the KLR, so when you have the rear wheel off is a good time to re-pack them with grease if you didn't already. One of them comes out with the rear sprocket carrier. The other is under a lil cap on the right hand side which you may have to knock out with a punch from the opposite side if it hasn't been removed in years/decades. Hopefully I did not just make you take the rear wheel off again...
	1

06-15-2023, 12:23 PM	#9
zero_dgz Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 243	I ran 705's for one tire cycle, including a few adventure rides. They are adequate for that use case, and believe it or not also do okay on grass. As you say, mud is their weak point. They do not shed wet mud very well. They are excellent on pavement, do tolerably well in loose dry dirt, and work just fine on gravel and similar. I think you'll do just fine. I now exclusively run the E804/805 on my KLR. Just put a fresh set on the day before yesterday, in fact. (No, I don't know why the front and rear tires are different model numbers from Shinko.) I think this tire is one of the best kept secrets for the middle/lightweight adventure crowd, especially for the price. It does just as well on pavement as the 705 as far as I can tell, and is significantly more capable in loose off-road terrain. If you're sick of the damn cotter pin on the rear axle nut every time you take it off, get yourself one of these: https://www.autozone.com/trailer-hit...ack/207591_0_0 I got a pack of three at the Autozone Across The Street and they're much more easily removed and infinitely reusable. Cheap enough. I gave away the extras to my other KLR buddies.
	0

06-17-2023, 05:28 PM	#10
Sport Rider Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Mooresville NC Posts: 2,029	I replaced the radiator an hoses today and got the fan wiring hooked up properly. Also changed the oil and added a charger connector for winter use. I took it out for a test ride and found some off Road near the house. Temp gauge working fine. Fan cycling on and off as expected. Speedo is next. Other than a windshield and crash bars i have it about where I want it. Looking forward to some ADV riding! Attached Thumbnails __________________ Dave Bikes I've owned: Suzuki GS450T, Yamaha XS500, Honda V45 Sabre, Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic (2), Suzuki VX800, Kawasaki Ninja 650, Triumph TT600, Honda Superhawk, Kawasaki Concours 1000 (3, including a sidecar rig), Buell XB9R, Kawasaki Nomad 1500, Concours 14, Honda Goldwing (2), Housen Hawk, Suzuki Intruder 1400, Kawasaki KLR650, Victory V92TC.
	0

06-17-2023, 07:31 PM	#11
XLsior Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Australia Posts: 1,256	doohickey?
	0

06-23-2023, 12:29 PM	#13
Sport Rider Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Mooresville NC Posts: 2,029	got the new speedo cable and installed it. everything is working as expected. I'll be sure to check the hub when I have the front wheel off for replacement, but for now, it's working fine. I ordered a new shifter as the one that's on the bike appears to be rubbing against the engine case. likely slightly bent from a tip over. I also ordered some rear brake pads. the rear brakes are not still working as well as I want. I also ordered some thick aluminum stock to try lowering my footpegs. might have to use steel eventually, but this will give me an idea of fitment. A windshield will be next on my list. I like Parabellum, but someone suggested Rifle to me. I'll check those two out further before I decide. __________________ Dave Bikes I've owned: Suzuki GS450T, Yamaha XS500, Honda V45 Sabre, Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic (2), Suzuki VX800, Kawasaki Ninja 650, Triumph TT600, Honda Superhawk, Kawasaki Concours 1000 (3, including a sidecar rig), Buell XB9R, Kawasaki Nomad 1500, Concours 14, Honda Goldwing (2), Housen Hawk, Suzuki Intruder 1400, Kawasaki KLR650, Victory V92TC.
	1

06-26-2023, 11:00 AM	#14
Sport Rider Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Mooresville NC Posts: 2,029	so, I got a new shifter and replacement brake pads over the weekend. took me all of 15 minutes to swap things out. rear brakes are notoriously weak on these bikes, but they are MUCH improved. Shift lever is not rubbing the case and shifting is better too. I managed to get a 50 mile shakedown ride in. The bike performed very well. This thing just feels so much like the hawk 250, but with enough power to move along very well. I managed to get it up to 70 and no wobbles or shakes. The speedo is 5 mph over the actual GPS indicated speed of the bike. it cruised along at a GPS indicated 55-60 with little effort and I'm sure it could run that speed all day long. The bike felt good overall, but a few things that still need some attention. I need a wind screen to avoid the wind directly in the chest. I'd like to get hand guards as well, but that's not a necessity for travel right now. I am going to lower the footpegs and also try to move them back perhaps an inch. Right now the rear brake lever throw is quite long and the pad is low compared to the footpeg. this may help with that. (I bet the lever is probably bent a bit) I'll continue to expand the duration of the shakedown runs to get more comfortable with the bike and ensure it's trip-worthy. Then I'll be doing some portion of the SCAR. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Dave Bikes I've owned: Suzuki GS450T, Yamaha XS500, Honda V45 Sabre, Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic (2), Suzuki VX800, Kawasaki Ninja 650, Triumph TT600, Honda Superhawk, Kawasaki Concours 1000 (3, including a sidecar rig), Buell XB9R, Kawasaki Nomad 1500, Concours 14, Honda Goldwing (2), Housen Hawk, Suzuki Intruder 1400, Kawasaki KLR650, Victory V92TC.
	1

06-27-2023, 11:21 AM	#15
zero_dgz Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 243	The rear brake pedal being low is typical of these bikes, and it is exacerbated if you install more aggressive footpegs, like I did, which are typically taller in profile. I have my pedal wound all the way to the highest point on it's adjustment and while it's better, it's still a little low for my comfort. I may just give up and make a spacer to clip to the top of the pedal to make it physically taller. Lowering your pegs will definitely help with that. I think a lot of the perception of the KLR having "weak" rear brakes is the pedal height being whack, so riders are not necessarily engaging the rear brake in full when they mean to. I know I certainly wasn't until I adjusted the shit out of mine. I'm sure I don't need to tell you that you can adjust the effective height of the brake pedal by loosening the nut on the bracket and screwing the threaded end of the master cylinder piston in and out. A taller windscreen is on my shopping list as well, because I have confirmed that a bunch of the wibble-wobble and buffeting I get at highway speed is the wind hitting me which makes it tough to keep the bars straight (especially when you're surrounded by 18 wheelers). I'm torn, though, because I really don't feel like necking myself on the top of the windscreen when I'm riding off road. My bike is a Gen 2 which already has "better" wind protection and aero than your Gen 1 (not by much) so it might be worth the investment if you stay on pavement regularly. You can indeed sit at 50 or 60 MPH all day on one of these bikes. I do so regularly. Mine will touch 100 MPH with a long enough runup, and made it to 112 once without exploding. They don't exactly leap forward if you open the throttle above around 70, though. The Tusk handguards are a perennial favorite for the KLR, probably because they are effective but cheap (like KLR owners themselves). I have the same pair; on a Gen 2 you also need handlebar risers so you don't smack the cowling at full lock, but on a Gen 1 you don't.
	1