Vader 125 Grom clone not starting

[Zeke]

Hey everyone. I'm new to the forum and thought I could reach out for help/advice.

I have a Vader 125 right now and only have about 50 miles on it. I have trouble getting it to start. It cranks and the battery is fully charged (I know sooner people talked about battery issues) but it will not start and idle. When I was riding it earlier today it was a little jumpy while riding and it never has been. It eventually died less than a couple minutes later and wouldn't start up and idle with the choke on. I feel like not enough fuel is getting into the carb or the fuel/air mixture.

I've changed the battery. I've checked the spark plug, I get spark. I've had adjusted the choke and idle and still have no idea.

If anyone out there has any suggestions feel free to drop them on the thread! I'm a new rider and it's sad I have 50 miles after a month of having it because this problem!

[Azhule]

Might be time to pull the carburetor and clean out the jets, bowl, and every tiny hole you can find... these small engines use really small jets that like to clog up

Change out the fuel hose and add/upgrade to a good fuel filter if you haven't already... these chinese hoses like to break apart from the inside out filling your carburetor with rubber bits

Did you clean out the fuel tank before filling up with gas and taking the bike for a spin? A few people (I'm one of those 'few') have had crud built up inside the chinese gas tank and it sends all that crap down stream to the carb fairly quickly...

Don't worry if the carb came "sealed with tamper screws"... tons of ways to get those out and replaced with good quality ones that can be removed any time with tools (flat head screw driver and allen bits usually)

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by Azhule

Might be time to pull the carburetor and clean out the jets, bowl, and every tiny hole you can find... these small engines use really small jets that like to clog up

Change out the fuel hose and add/upgrade to a good fuel filter if you haven't already... these chinese hoses like to break apart from the inside out filling your carburetor with rubber bits

Did you clean out the fuel tank before filling up with gas and taking the bike for a spin? A few people (I'm one of those 'few') have had crud built up inside the chinese gas tank and it sends all that crap down stream to the carb fairly quickly...

Don't worry if the carb came "sealed with tamper screws"... tons of ways to get those out and replaced with good quality ones that can be removed any time with tools (flat head screw driver and allen bits usually)

I was hoping it wasn't going to be the carb just because it's a real pain. No, I didn't clean out the fuel tank before filling up. I wish I would have known that before. Do you really think my carb can be that dirty off 50 miles? Should I replace my whole carb? Also, do you have any recommendations where I can get these hoses?

[culcune]

A new carb couldn't hurt since they are cheap on ebay. There are a whole bunch of Mikuni-clone carbs for the larger dual sport bikes, so I am guessing there would be many for the smaller engines, too. You can play around with your stock carb once you put the replacement one on; that way you have a backup carb.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by culcune

A new carb couldn't hurt since they are cheap on ebay. There are a whole bunch of Mikuni-clone carbs for the larger dual sport bikes, so I am guessing there would be many for the smaller engines, too. You can play around with your stock carb once you put the replacement one on; that way you have a backup carb.

That seems to be my best bet right now.

I got it to start today but it just won't hold an idle. I can ride around as long as I am throttling. After I come to a stop or let go of the throttle it will drop and die. Any thoughts about my bike not idling? Still the carb?

[Zeke]

So I have an update, my bike now idles. I had to make sure the fuel line and filter was upright allowing the best flow into the carb.

But right now it dies after awhile and I have to open and close my gas tank then start my bike again. Anyone have any ideas?

[MidMoKing]

Did you check your tank vent hose. Some get crimped up.

[martim]

I had the same problem...you need to punch a few small holes into the gas tank entry hole where the gas is poured. It allows the excess air to escape where the gas tank is...when I did that, I never had the issue you were having again. I think it's just a buildup that doesn't allow the engine to push out used and dirty gas fumes, etc.

[Nicthegreat420]

I’ve got a huge issue with these bikes but only with them not starting. Might just be time to buy a whole new motor

[Goob]

Originally Posted by Zeke

That seems to be my best bet right now.

I got it to start today but it just won't hold an idle. I can ride around as long as I am throttling. After I come to a stop or let go of the throttle it will drop and die. Any thoughts about my bike not idling? Still the carb?

Try adjusting the pilot jet screw. Typically should be between 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns out. This is a fuel jet (since it is on the intake manifold side of the carb) and a larger jet means more fuel. If you are at less than 1 1/2, then you need a smaller Pilot jet and if you are above 2 1/2, then you need a larger pilot jet.

I found I needed a 30 Pilot rather than the stock 20 to get a good idle.

This should get you to idle. The pilot jet works with the idle screw at closed to 1/4 throttle.

[culcune]

I forgot to mention--valve lash adjustment? This seems to be something the 200cc vertical thumpers in the dual-sport section seem to have to deal with--a bike that does not start, or does not stay running. Poster goes through anything and everything to do with a carb, but then someone suggests adjusting the valves, and voila! Problem solved! See if that is the case before diving into the carb.

[bogieboy]

agree with Culcune.... valve adjustment will wreak havoc on trying to chase "carb" issues, when all it needs is the valves loosened...

[Bkong120]

Just received my BD125-10. I road it home after building it at work and it ran perfect. Just got to about 25 miles aand it just had the symptoms of the carb flooding and just died out. I turned the fuel off and cranked it over. Finally got it to my destination and left it over night. I was planning on changing the carb to the mikuni 22 carb and that's what I did today. Took about a 1.5 hrs if you remove all the plastics. After having to get a little more slack from the throttle cable. The bike started right up and idled perfect! Got rid of the emissions system. The bike definitely gained power and sounds a lot better has a deeper tone. Just installed the 17t sprocket as well and it makes you 3rd gear as fast as the stock 4th gear. Just change a couple things and the bike becomes amazing! If you plan on keeping it stock. I recommended changing all the vacuum lines and fuel hose to better quality.

[Darryl]

1.5 hours sounds about right for the first time. After a little practice, 5-10 minutes and you can have the plastic off and the carb in hand. Nothing like practice!
Check the clutch adjustment. If the bike pulls with the clutch on, it will stall out with a normal idle. It makes a huge difference when everything is properly adjusted.

[GScott]

Originally Posted by Zeke

now it dies after awhile and I have to open and close my gas tank then start my bike again. Anyone have any ideas?

Yes, very common that the vent hose is crimped under the bodywork. Lots about that here, even pictures. My bike just arrived and does the same thing. Even though it was supposed to include 'expert assembly and testing'.

did you get it fixed?