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Old 12-11-2018, 07:58 PM   #346
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Originally Posted by rjmorel View Post
I just fired 300 up for the first time. Took a little bit but it finally settled down and ran. I ran it enough to get the fans to come on 2x then shut it down. Will let it cool then maybe run another heat cycle?
Question .........how to break it in?
Will running it on the lift without a load like
running down the street and varying throttle up and down cause the rings to not seat since it doesn't have a load on it? Kinda cold up here now , expecting snow so it may be 2-3 months before I can get it on the road at my age.
Also the radiator hoses and clamps are seeping a little. Grrrr. Time for new hoses and clamps ? Or keep tighten them till they seal?
Are there better hoses available? Think I saw Silicone ones advertised somewhere? NZ ?
It's a 2015 2nd batch to come thru CSC I believe.
At 16,700 miles on it now.
Now maybe I can keep up with Orlando and Thelma and the Berkster
thanks for all your help guys, rj
I only have blue and I am meant to buy 100 sets at a time.

Yes can supply hoses stock or silicon.

Break in just like a new bike or basically just ride it without big revs and heavy handed


 
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Old 12-11-2018, 11:38 PM   #347
rjmorel   rjmorel is offline
 
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So at this point I'll leave the hoses alone for now as they didn't leak after tightening them again. I'll break it in with varying throttle but not too spirited just incase the O ring comes back to haunt me. Then when I get 500-750 miles on it, I'll have a look see in the screens and filters and change oil and coolant and replace hoses if need be. Hope to get out on it this week as the snow never came and it's in the 50's .
Thanks for all your encouragement everyone.
I enjoyed the vid Mexgiver. What you been up too? Got the Beemer wore out yet? rj
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Old 12-12-2018, 12:06 AM   #348
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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I suggest a quicker oil change like the factory suggested at about 200 miles
The reusable filter is in my opinion for the initial run in ad I’d do a couple 200ish mile mineral oil changes
My thoughts only


 
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Old 12-12-2018, 10:20 AM   #349
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Like NZ said, I just rode mine on a lot of back road, varying throttle and of course, we have a ton of canyon here so there's a lot of downhill decels and steep uphills. The bike saw a ton of variety. I just kept it under 5500/6000 for the first while and no extended high R's. After one of them grenaded here, I wanted to be nice for the first few hundred miles.
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Old 12-12-2018, 07:48 PM   #350
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I'll PM ya RJ to keep from polluting up this thread!
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Old 12-12-2018, 10:22 PM   #351
rjmorel   rjmorel is offline
 
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Took it out today for an initial ride and all went well. I neither rode it like a grandpa nor like I stole it. 30 miles . Got cold on me so cut riding short.
Ran better at end then at beginning like every one has said. Rode through town then up on the highway to 6000rpm just cruising around. 1 smaller on the counter shaft sprocket, but will probably change back to stock once broke it. Power is about what you have all said. Didn't have any oil or coolant leaks either.
O Ring is not to be found unless it's sloshing around in engine. I'll see when changing oil out at 200 miles NZ. But that may be this spring with winter here.
I did notice right off it seemed to have a lag when rolling on throttle maybe 1/4-1/2 throttle. But that seemed to go away after riding it . Maybe computer adjusting to new top end? Engine did seem quieter with new top end.
I'm happy with it. If nothing else, new top end with a few more ponies down low to grunt with. rj
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Old 12-12-2018, 11:02 PM   #352
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjmorel View Post
Took it out today for an initial ride and all went well. I neither rode it like a grandpa nor like I stole it. 30 miles . Got cold on me so cut riding short.
Ran better at end then at beginning like every one has said. Rode through town then up on the highway to 6000rpm just cruising around. 1 smaller on the counter shaft sprocket, but will probably change back to stock once broke it. Power is about what you have all said. Didn't have any oil or coolant leaks either.
O Ring is not to be found unless it's sloshing around in engine. I'll see when changing oil out at 200 miles NZ. But that may be this spring with winter here.
I did notice right off it seemed to have a lag when rolling on throttle maybe 1/4-1/2 throttle. But that seemed to go away after riding it . Maybe computer adjusting to new top end? Engine did seem quieter with new top end.
I'm happy with it. If nothing else, new top end with a few more ponies down low to grunt with. rj
The lag you will find that the stepper motor passage is dirty and needs a super close look and clean, same for the stepper motor tip, also correctly set the throttle butterfly closed - take it out and carefully look n clean (tank off in 10 min leave the side panels all on)

Did you reset the ECU? on/off 5 times and waited 15 seconds?
Some ECU learning is needed yeah


 
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Old 12-13-2018, 12:58 AM   #353
rjmorel   rjmorel is offline
 
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NZ, I did not reset ECU. spank, spank.
I remember you told someone else about stepper motor needing cleaning NZ.
I took the thingy closest to the cylinder that's mounted in the intake manifold held in with 1 bolt and looked at it. Wasn't dirty looking . Then the thingy mounted on top on the air cleaner side I couldn't get off very easily and got side tracked and forgot about it. Should it pull straight up?

Can you give us a quick first grade tutorial on how to do these:

"The lag you will find that the stepper motor passage is dirty and needs a super close look and clean, same for the stepper motor tip, also correctly set the throttle butterfly closed - take it out and carefully look n clean (tank off in 10 min leave the side panels all on)"

Do you take the throttle body off the bike or can this all be done while on the bike?
thanks, for all your help NZ, rj
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Old 12-13-2018, 02:17 AM   #354
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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pop the tank off, remove the throttle body the part with throttle cable - strip it clean it study the components clean clean and be sure the throttle flap fully returns where you get the least light when you look inside it as that allows air to leak past and upset the stepper/idle passage


 
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Old 12-14-2018, 02:49 AM   #355
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Originally Posted by sqwert View Post
Already having heat problems with your kit and the stock radiators on warm days when holding WFO.
Anyone else having cooling issues with the kit? I may not be able to get this kit, if it runs too hot.


 
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Old 12-14-2018, 05:50 AM   #356
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Originally Posted by StevieUT View Post
Anyone else having cooling issues with the kit? I may not be able to get this kit, if it runs too hot.
Hi, I'm almost 8000 kilometers (5K miles) since installing the RTC 300 kit. No cooling issues at all, including a variety of long distance trips (12hs almost WOT), secondary rural roads and stop & go city traffic, in Buenos Aires climate (from mild to hot, 20 ~ 35 °C).
In fact it seems to me that sustained "high speed" (70mph) it runs cooler tan before. Note that I'm back to using a 15Z front sprocket.

Regards,

Juanro


 
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:25 AM   #357
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Anyone else having cooling issues with the kit? I may not be able to get this kit, if it runs too hot.
Where did you dig that quote from? all news to me and I haven't heard anyone with issues apart from 1 guy assembling it wrong and it hand graneded it self


 
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:43 AM   #358
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Originally Posted by sqwert View Post
Hmmm? Reference to engineering characteristics and installation instructions? I draw the line somewhere. Don't yet know where. Already having heat problems with your kit and the stock radiators on warm days when holding WFO. Only reason I have yet to measure for a stroker crank--stock cooling can't handle any more than what the bike has with your kit under my riding conditions. Close ratio trans also needs different ratios before adding more torque curve, your kit is about all the stock ratios can feel comfortable with. Then, more displacement would just about require a modified head and more radical cam, and the cam is probably not available due to the compression release, but more displacement may then be somewhat compatible with the stock trans ratios.
Heating up? as in reading the temp or as on the bars on the gauge? they are high standard etc. I missed this comment and I haven't heard anyone report heating issue. Have you check the system is working correctly? I mean adding more cc might tip a weak or faulty system over the edge but that doesn't mean it is the extra cc or kit causing the issue.

Currently my cooling system is TOO cold and only goes to 1-2 bars up the gauge - thermostat issue I assume and I gotta fix 3rd gear........... don't feel like doing that part!


 
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Old 12-14-2018, 04:15 PM   #359
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Anyone installing this 300cc kit needs to make sure when refilling the coolant system that you get both radiators full and air bubbles worked out. There was a few problems on the first 2015 batch just because the factory didn't fill the cooling system to capacity and had air in the radiators. So I would fill it as much as it will take , then ride it around and keep checking it and adding water till it stays full. I remember a bunch of us were in a tizzy about where our coolant was going. And all it needed was to get air bubbles worked out of system.
When I did my swap, I had the coolant drained into a jar so I knew how much came out. When I finished swapping the kit and poured the same coolant back in ,it only took 1/2-3/4 of the jar. So I started engine and let it get up to temp , thermostat open and circulating coolant. Let it cool down and checked the level in radiator and it took the rest of coolant what was in the jar plus more to fill the overflow bottle.
So just keep and eye on the coolant level and all should be good. rj
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Old 12-15-2018, 02:09 AM   #360
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Ok, good to know on the cooling. Thanks for the feedback everyone!


 
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