New Rhino 250 Q&A

[Paul2]

So all, Put the TAO 250 n 150cc to the test...


Just back from Pittsfield NH Trails and I use the term "trails" loosely, with the rhino and 2 sons 150cc Bulls,,
wanna hear lessons learned??
lets start with the trails, NAAASSSTTYY, definably huge inclines with jagged rock trails n 1' of mud and puddles to say the least, logging roads would have been a walk in the park and almost nervous my 12yr old wasn't going to be able to deal with the terrain and being able to hold on n brake the unit if needed, but oh well, what good would it be if the ex didn't bring me to court over this as well! , these trails were far far from riding through the pastures as on the brochure. Yes, it was fun..and yes the machines did just fine.
What went right;
a) The fuel being ethanol free was perfect so they started every time in all weather conditions, even after I flipped mine by hitting a rock going uphill then in a rut coming down, but it started right away.


b) The battery being sealed was a huge win win, strongly suggest if you are going ton these type trails.


c) The chain came off my sons 150ccbull, just to find that a main 24mm? frame bold loosened badly and let the chain release by causing the chain tensioner bolt to move and have play in it, then strip the threads clean with the movement now allowed on it,,so, when they say check EVERY THING for tightness after each ride, they mean it. Getting new 8mm tensioner bolts and red lock tight. PLus throwing the tools away, not even good for IKEA furniture tools right in the trash, they didn't fit and stripped before the bolts I was using them on did
!
d) snapped off rear red light due to the rocks kicking up everywhere, new light ordered as this was also full of water? oh well.


e) and now the squealing winding noise from the front end of mine n second sons atv, found the tire when turning,, the bearings were dried n fried from going through the water and heated up from the ruts n hills we went through everyday. New bearings ordered and easy enough to change, but learned that new bearings that fit our units are minimally greased right from the get go, so they air gaps between the bearing balls, so everyone please remember to grease the bearing routinely if water and mud are what you ride in even somewhat, you'd be surprised!
so overall, they ran great, if I greased the bearings and checked the bolt tension on EVERY bolt, and god don't forget the main frame bolts, and chain tension at the end of each day, everything would have went perfect.
And the trails were on a scale of 1-5, a solid 4 as far as terrain goes so I don't blame the tao at all, I didn't get past second gear 99% of the trip, mostly in 1st most of it, all hills/rocks/ruts/mud/ect...but the unit pushed me up the hills without issue.
That was my soap box, and oh ya one last one, I'm repacking the new bearings to assure no air gaps between the bearings balls with Mobilith SHC 460, that'ill learn'em!
I'm going to pretend that no one knows all this stuff already so I don't feel bad.
P

[BlackBike]

Paul...the best part is your out there killing it and making memories with the boys!!

[Paul2]

awesome thank you, buy stock, im getting 3

[Darth Racer]

Good to hear all went mostly well. Minor stuff for what sounds like a hell of a workout for all three atvs.

[Paul2]

Huge workout for them, as said I didn't even get into 3rd gear the entire trip, way to rocky incline decline/deep mud/and water to ever try to get there.
I'm going to pretend I knew how to ride them through and over all stated above as well..ya we killed them and they survived, the dude on a brand new Suzuki 350cc something or other and broke off the weld on his steering arm in the first 15miles of the trial for flying through a deep mud puddle and managed to drive right a rock that wasn't out of the water but was sticking straight up, it was a smash then game over for the guy,,, tow back to the camp, no steering.
so ya never know..

[Darth Racer]

Pretty much same here how I ride my Rhino... in and out of a creek bed the whole trip with a nasty climb out. I get to put it in 3rd and 4th for a 1/4 mile on the side of a road. Rest of the time it's in 1st gear... (have to keep the speed below 10mph on the mining lease)

Only real issue I have had this season is my chain tensioner bolts are getting a bit shoddy. Picked up a couple of eye bolts at TSC.. haven't had a chance to install them yet though. Might have to get longer bolts to mount them due to the extra thickness.. the threads on them should hold up on them well.

[Paul2]

There are different manufacturers for our chain tension bolts, one vendor VMC has the original super lightweight ones that strip in a jiffy, familiygocarts only sells the bolt and they have a beefier (only slightly) and a tad shorter, then there's eagle that sells a "better" version but they are not truly for our machine specs so u may need to get 2 sizes to see what fits best. I ordered the original from VMC and just 2, as they only stripped due to frame bolt loosening then causing the free play in that location, what I will do is head to a ace hardware once I get the bolts and get their hardened version of nylon lock nuts and washers as the original versions don't exactly fit the thread and they can strip easier than not. oh ya and lots of blue lock tight..
ps-don't forget to check and repack the front bearings, mine came almost totally void..

[Mudflap]

A tip on front brakes.

I rode a friend's Rhino today and found the front brake was useless, not that they're that great even when working properly. I lubed the cables and greased the cams where they go through the brake backing plates. They come dry from the factory. Now they work smoothly and can actually lock up the front wheels. So if you want good brakes, lube the cams and cables.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Mudflap

A tip on front brakes.

I rode a friend's Rhino today and found the front brake was useless, not that they're that great even when working properly. I lubed the cables and greased the cams where they go through the brake backing plates. They come dry from the factory. Now they work smoothly and can actually lock up the front wheels. So if you want good brakes, lube the cams and cables.

Thanks for the heads up on this Mudflap. Even with my cables so tight you can barely set the parking brake pin, it's useless. I have to keep it in gear on a slight hill when the parking brake is on or it will roll away. I never bothered to even check it out for issues because it got to a point to where I ignore it.
If I ever get around to getting Mrs 2LZ her Coolster 150 quad, it will be the front disk one they offer.

[Mudflap]

Does anyone know the torque specs for the axle nuts next to the disk brake hub? Not the torque to lock them together but to tighten against the brake hub.

Here is the specs on the Yamaha Blaster 200 which has a similar setup. I'll use this method unless someone comes up with something better. They're called axle ring nuts.

[Mudflap]

Taotao ATA250D specs from Taotao China. Rhino should be mostly the same except for wheel size.

Type:197cc, Air cooled, 4-stroke, 1-cylinder
Bore×Stroke:φ69×63mm
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Carburetor: PZ27
Ignition:CDI
Starting:Electrical start
Transmission:4-3-2-1-N-R
Drive Train:Chain drive
Max. Power:10.5Kw/7500r/min
Max. Torque:15.0N.m/5500r/min

CHASSIS
Suspension/Front:Independent double swing arm
Suspension/Rear:Single swing arm
Brakes/Front: Drum Rear:Ventilated Hydraulic disc
Tires/Front:21X7-8 Rear:20X9.5-8 radial

DIMENSIONS　
Overall Size (L*W*H) 1700*1040*1110mm
Seat Height:810mm
Wheelbase:1120mm
Ground Clearance:120mm
Battery:12V9Ah
Fuel Capacity:5L
Dry Weight:170kg
Max. Load:150kg
Package Size:1580×900×800mm
Loading Quantity:21pcs/20´GP, 42pcs/40´HQ

MAIN PERFORMANCE　
Max. Speed:75km/h
Fuel Consumption:4.0L/100km
Starting Time:≤15s
Brake Distance:30km/h≤7m

[Mudflap]

Was thinking how I could get a 12 tooth 428 sprocket on to the countershaft where the chain plates would hit the retainer bolts. How about a spacer made of a cut down sprocket placed behind the 12 tooth sprocket. A snap ring in the groove on the shaft would hold it all together. Better ideas?

[Mudflap]

Worked great. Cut down an old sprocket to use as a spacer behind the 12 tooth. Thickness was perfect. Put 2 circlips in the slot because they were about 1mm thick while the stock retainer is 2.5mm thick. Now I have the 3.33/1 gear ratio I wanted.

Originally Posted by Mudflap

Was thinking how I could get a 12 tooth 428 sprocket on to the countershaft where the chain plates would hit the retainer bolts. How about a spacer made of a cut down sprocket placed behind the 12 tooth sprocket. A snap ring in the groove on the shaft would hold it all together. Better ideas?

[Chadr60]

I just purchase a 2015 Taotao Rhino 250. I changed oil, replaced spark plug, replaced air filter, and cleaned carb. It starts up great and idles good, but when I put into gear and let off clutch engines stalls out. Can anyone help me out? Think I may need a new clutch? Thank you

[Computek]

Originally Posted by Chadr60

I just purchase a 2015 Taotao Rhino 250. I changed oil, replaced spark plug, replaced air filter, and cleaned carb. It starts up great and idles good, but when I put into gear and let off clutch engines stalls out. Can anyone help me out? Think I may need a new clutch? Thank you

Give it some more throttle perhaps? Let it warm up a bit longer? The Rhino takes a bit to get it to move, 1st gear is taller than most of us would like. Hope you got it going!!