Valve Adjustment Notes

[SpudRider]

Good for you! Your next valve adjustment will go much faster.

[vttrailboss]

After adjusting my valves, my stalling went away (300 miles and no stall), and the bike seems to be running better. I'm pretty sure the clearance was below .03mm for intake and exhaust. I set to .08. Surprisingly they're prettyl quiet... I figured they would be loud and tappy.

BTW, I didn't have to remove my tank. I could simply turn it sideways. Access the the valves was a PIA, but got it done.

[rdp5008]

Set my valves to .08 today. Kinda loud and tappy but seems okay.

When I was all finished and she was put back together I found an extra intake valve cover sitting on the work bench. I wonder where that came from? Derp.

Thankfully I was confident enough not to start the damn thing until she was all put together. No harm just wasted time.

[pyoungbl]

Originally Posted by rdp5008

Set my valves to .08 today. Kinda loud and tappy but seems okay.

When I was all finished and she was put back together I found an extra intake valve cover sitting on the work bench. I wonder where that came from? Derp.

Thankfully I was confident enough not to start the damn thing until she was all put together. No harm just wasted time.

Was that .08mm or .008"...big difference! Also, I cannot understand how you would have an 'extra' intake valve cover. There are only two, one intake, one exhaust. Maybe I'm just missing something in translation...not the first time for me.

[rdp5008]

.08mm. I used my .06, .08 and .10 mm feelers to check the tolerance. .06 in easy. .08 in tight. .10 not in at all.

I was being sarcastic. Not very obvious, sorry. I forgot to put the intake valve cover on. No harm done. I noticed before I started the engine. Just a silly mistake that wasted a bit of time this morning. I just had to remove the seat and gas tank to get to the intake valve cover. Luckily I put the exhaust valve cover on before putting her back together. That one is a bear to get to.

[willy dog]

[QUOTE=rdp5008;261046]Set my valves to .08 today. Kinda loud and tappy but seems okay.

When I was all finished and she was put back together I found an extra intake valve cover sitting on the work bench. I wonder where that came from? Derp.

first time was careful to mark intake and exhaust but still managed to install one cover upside down did not notice till saw puddle of oil under the mighty ZONG

[vttrailboss]

I did the same thing... lol. Luckily it was the intake. 5 minutes later, and I was back in business.

[mckayprod]

Did my third (?) valve adjustment yesterday at 10k miles and I have to say this isn't getting any easier! Even without the forgotten screws, botched oil change, upside-down valve cover and other stuff that had to be redone it still takes two or three hours for me to do this. I hope I don't just need more practice, because it's no fun at all. Do longer feeler gauges help?

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by mckayprod

Did my third (?) valve adjustment yesterday at 10k miles and I have to say this isn't getting any easier! Even without the forgotten screws, botched oil change, upside-down valve cover and other stuff that had to be redone it still takes two or three hours for me to do this. I hope I don't just need more practice, because it's no fun at all. Do longer feeler gauges help?

I feel your pain. Especially now that I'm half blind and not near as nimble with the fingers as I once was. I'm ok and can tear through it but it's still not fun and the exhaust valves still suck. If you get a line on a custom feeler gauge for getting at them better, please post.

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by mckayprod

Did my third (?) valve adjustment yesterday at 10k miles and I have to say this isn't getting any easier! Even without the forgotten screws, botched oil change, upside-down valve cover and other stuff that had to be redone it still takes two or three hours for me to do this. I hope I don't just need more practice, because it's no fun at all. Do longer feeler gauges help?

I've done 11 valve check/adjustments.

It doesn't get any easier for me, other than I have all the steps memorized.

Still takes about 2 hours. Since I have other bike I can ride, I occasionally let the RX3 sit unused until I can get motivated to do a valve check.

As for the feeler gauge, I use 2. One is an angled single feeler gauge. I think CSC sells one.

The other is a long single feeler. If you are using a gauge in a bundle, it helps to separate the one you are using from the rest.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/FEELER...ps57-80526.htm

The shipping will probably cost more than the gauge.

Maybe you can find it from another vendor.

I had mine on hand, since it is the one I use on the DR 650......which btw, only requires 7,500 mile valve check.

jb

[mckayprod]

Good to know I'm not the only one who thinks this is a chore. I'm too stubborn to quit now, so I'll get better at it or die trying! I've seen feelers from Motion Pro at the local shop, longer and pre-bent. Maybe they'll help getting around the frame in front of the exhaust valves. Redesign the radiator mounts?

[willy dog]

the single pre bent one makes a difference that and practice

[2LZ]

It's not just that the exhausts are hard to access, it's also that the size gauge is so dang thin and flimsy. It bends and tweeks around trying to find the slot. I found it easier last time just to loosen the adjusters way up, put the blade in between, then adjust them down checking for drag. If the gap was twice as fat, it would probably make accessing them far easier.

[rtking]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

I found it easier last time just to loosen the adjusters way up, put the blade in between, then adjust them down checking for drag.

Agreed!

I am seriously thinking of buying another feeler gauge set (they're certainly cheap enough) so that I can have a feeler gauge under each tappet as I perform the adjustment. That would make things much quicker as then I can balance the adjustment across both valves.

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

It's not just that the exhausts are hard to access, it's also that the size gauge is so dang thin and flimsy. It bends and tweeks around trying to find the slot. I found it easier last time just to loosen the adjusters way up, put the blade in between, then adjust them down checking for drag. If the gap was twice as fat, it would probably make accessing them far easier.

If you loosen the adjusting screws before measuring the gap, you won't know if the clearances are getting wider or closing up.

IMO, that would be a good thing to know.

jb